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Old Oct 13, 2012, 06:51 PM
erdnuckel2 is offline
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It flies!!! ... so who cares ?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elkabong80 View Post
Glad to have your blessing! I saw you have or had a solo pro 100d and had a love/hate relationship with it. How's it now? Sorry for OT.
It seemed to me a lot harder to "deal with" than the mCPX - and now I focused very much on the nano for a little while (unfortunately it seems I will need a new motor AND a new tail ... and I STILL got my soldering problem ...)

Anyway, once I started focusing on the mCPX because I could deal A LOT better with it than with the SP100 (which may have really been due to me having NO CP experience whatsoever ...) the SP100 suffered the sad fate of ending up in its box where it STILL is - (and I never even took the 2nd one I bought as spare/parts donor out of ITS box ... ever ... !!!.)

Anyway, like I said, I consider the nano the BEST indoor heli purchase decision I made ... and it is amazing how much this allowed me to improve on the mCPX!!! (in just a few days!!!) - actually soo much, that I might actually take the SP100 back out off the box and see if I already got better in "dealing with it"

OT done ...
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Old Oct 13, 2012, 07:53 PM
elkabong80 is offline
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Originally Posted by erdnuckel2 View Post
OT done ...
Thanks for the diversion! I'm gonna pick up a v911 bnf or y911 (whatever is cheaper at he moment) when I get paid again and beg my wife for a nano cpx for Christmas!

My FS-TH9X will be here Monday. I never thought I'd wish for a Monday to come quickly! Flying with my stock tx was so painful this morning. I tried it outside in a (harder than it looked out the window) decent breeze. It was crazy sluggish into the wind with full trim forward, but spiraled quickly in the air... on it's way to the ground.

The heli seemed to lose connection with the tx a few times too. I'm not sure if its the batteries or what, but I'm going to fly again inside in a little while to compare. Does the battery display actually decrement one bar at a time? I remember it being full, then 2 bars where it is now. Maybe it is really almost dead and just isn't going to show me. Kind of like how it always shows Mode 1... I've got some nice new rechargeable NiMH batteries that I was saving for the th9x, but I guess a few flights won't kill them.
Old Oct 13, 2012, 08:23 PM
BlacksheepVMF214 is offline
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Quick question,

Is it possible to switch the "old" version to accept eflight batteries and if so how hard is it to do? (sorry if this was posted somewhere else in this thread, 900 pages and all )
Old Oct 13, 2012, 08:47 PM
tonytester is offline
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Yo R Wee Too Lo

hold your horses


Quote:
Originally Posted by shahram72 View Post
Oh, the 6 channel is not going to make Christmas now? I thought it was due any day now. That's it I'm getting a nano!
how do we know that the info I got is acurate. thre different chinese guys told me the same thing. one said the technology of the rx is the holdup. what if they just want us to buy more of their existing products , then spring the new one on us, For sure I would get one even I just bought a couple other things.so would most of the rest of the group that have been waiting.
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Old Oct 13, 2012, 08:52 PM
erdnuckel2 is offline
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It flies!!! ... so who cares ?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlacksheepVMF214 View Post
Quick question,

Is it possible to switch the "old" version to accept eflight batteries and if so how hard is it to do? (sorry if this was posted somewhere else in this thread, 900 pages and all )
Best way in my eyes:
V911 Battery Modification.wmv (0 min 30 sec)


(however, I would like to remark that this is a SP260 landing skid, neither from the V911, nor from the 9958)
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Old Oct 13, 2012, 09:18 PM
Ricomon is offline
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Hughes 300 Canopies


OK, as promised, here's a comparison showing how the E sky, MCX, and CX Nano Hughes 300 canopies fit on the WL Toys V911 and the yellow clone. The frames are a tad different. The body mounting posts are wider on the yellow clone, and the rear post is a bit farther back on the yellow clone.

The MCX is the best fit, but they all work on both frames, although the CX Nano is REALLY tight on the yellow clone. The fuel tanks on the E sky and CX Nano must be splayed out, and the CX Nano won't even reach the front post.

I hope this helps somebody to make a choice on a canopy.

Rick
Old Oct 13, 2012, 11:15 PM
stonecutter is offline
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Sir Crashalot
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlacksheepVMF214 View Post
Quick question,

Is it possible to switch the "old" version to accept eflight batteries and if so how hard is it to do? (sorry if this was posted somewhere else in this thread, 900 pages and all )
If you can solder, you can do it. Numerous people have done it and posted their results, including yours truly. But for the definitive step by step instructions, look at Daryoon's blog or website.

Edit: sorry, I just realized E2 responded and posted his solution, no disrespect intended.
Old Oct 14, 2012, 12:59 AM
Stevez1kart is offline
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Trees are bad
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Paper body? This my not be new here but I found this YT video pretty neat. Pdf files for construction are listed in the description.
V911 Paper Scale Body #2 V911スケールボディー (4 min 0 sec)

More detailed [URL="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NkcGLVuJFfI&feature=relmfu"]
Last edited by Stevez1kart; Oct 14, 2012 at 01:13 AM. Reason: More detail
Old Oct 14, 2012, 07:49 AM
LeJaque is offline
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After having trouble with the main motor I put the SP main in. Back in business! It flies great and back to almost 7 mins of flight per battery (145mAh)! So anyone experiencing loss of airtime, change your main motor!
I don't own a soldering iron so I just cut the wires, leaving enough to splice with, then shrink tube it to secure the splice from getting undone and/or causing a short somewhere.

I now use the SP blades on the metal alloy v911 upgrade head. Experienced allot of vibrations until i exchanged the small removable pin, that holds the blades in place, for a thinner one. This got rid of most of the vibrations when hovering and using only little control input. Now when I crack full rudder on the cyclic it makes a buzzing sound and seem to not like the smaller pin I installed.. Will have to either get a sp head or go back to using stock blades.. I like the SP ones since they glow in the dark..

I also installed a green led on the tail, since I fried my only red one trying to figure out +/-.. Oh well, practice makes perfect.

Anyone have a good idea on how to make the SP blades fit the metal head without loosing maneuverability?

Thanks!

Edit: @Rick, Thanks for nice images. I think I just got in the market of getting a MCX canopy!
Last edited by LeJaque; Oct 14, 2012 at 08:02 AM.
Old Oct 14, 2012, 09:43 AM
KKDDMM is offline
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I love MOD! & WALKERA & V911!
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I bought four V911 yesterday.


I want to mod more and more,so I bought four V911 yesterday.
And I found the RX is changed.
Perhaps the newest RX is REV01(20120529).

But!the date of REV06(20120615) is newer than REV01......


see more photos in my page.
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show....php?t=1751255
Old Oct 14, 2012, 09:50 AM
FyreSG is offline
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Vids: YouTube.com/FyreSG
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Attaching LEDs without soldering


Quote:
Originally Posted by LeJaque View Post
I don't own a soldering iron so I just cut the wires, leaving enough to splice with, then shrink tube it to secure the splice from getting undone and/or causing a short somewhere.

...

I also installed a green led on the tail, since I fried my only red one trying to figure out +/-.. Oh well, practice makes perfect.
I'm curious how you attached the LEDs on the tail as well as on the board without soldering?
Old Oct 14, 2012, 10:14 AM
Obiorion is offline
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My goal is fly more crash less

Disposable heli?


Ok, my parts arrived and I fixed my V911. After about twenty flights indoors my skids got caught in the carpet and when I picked it up one of the connection points tore.

I'm slow so this is the first time I noticed that any replacement will require soldering two tiny wires?!?? I haven't touched a solder iron in over 30 years and that was for a class in junior high.

I've already ordered a healthy amount of parts (several blades, dog bones, flybars and batteries and even a replacement tail assembly) but at the low low price of $23US for a BNF these suddenly seem more disposable and not worth the effort of working with wires.
Last edited by Obiorion; Oct 14, 2012 at 10:51 AM.
Old Oct 14, 2012, 10:40 AM
JCMorgan is offline
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Krueminator
Quote:
Originally Posted by Obiorion View Post
Ok, my parts arrived and I fixed my V911. After about twenty flights indoors my skids got caught in the carpet and when I picked it up one of the connection points tore.

I'm slow so this I'd the first time I noticed that any replacement will require soldering two tiny wires?!?? I haven't touched a solder iron in over 30 years and that was for a class in junior high.

I've already ordered a healthy amount of parts (several blades, dog bones, flybars and batteries and even a replacement tail assembly) but at the low low price of $23US for a BNF these suddenly seem more disposable and not worth the effort of working with wires.
Yup. For those of us that just wanna fly, it is the way to go.
Old Oct 14, 2012, 10:47 AM
LeJaque is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FyreSG View Post
I'm curious how you attached the LEDs on the tail as well as on the board without soldering?
As for the LED on the board theres really nothing fancy. It's hooked up straigh to the battery cables, with no resistor, threw a splice I had to do when changing landing skids some time back.

The tail light was only a matter of (in my case) nerve. I simply scraped enough cable isolation off the tail motor wires to be able to get the legs of the LED squeezed between the actual wire and the remaining isolation. Then shrink tube...
Could secure it with some CA. I didn't..

When hooking it up like this the tail LED will not light up until you are actually flying the thing. It's a pity but I don't se how else it could be done without more wires.
Old Oct 14, 2012, 10:53 AM
LittleMo is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Obiorion View Post
I'm slow so this I'd the first time I noticed that any replacement will require soldering two tiny wires?!?? I haven't touched a solder iron in over 30 years and that was for a class in junior high.

I've already ordered a healthy amount of parts (several blades, dog bones, flybars and batteries and even a replacement tail assembly) but at the low low price of $23US for a BNF these suddenly seem more disposable and not worth the effort of working with wires.
It's actually pretty easy since the place where they connect on the board is very easy to access. I mean what's the worse that could happen, ruin your board that you don't plan on using anyway? These little micros are always breaking stuff like those thin wires so it's handy to be able to stick it back together when needed.

Another option, as someone posted above, would be to just cut the old wires and then twist them together with the new ones. Then cover with tape/shrink-tube/whatever.

I'd solder it for you if you're ever down in the Hampton Roads area.


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