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Old Sep 12, 2012, 07:07 AM
Budasac is offline
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Micro Menace
Quote:
Originally Posted by Makdaddy View Post
I found using my wife's acetone nail polish remover to work quite well for debonding. Fancy stuff from the nail pro store.
I used acetone to remove a tail boom as well. Worked very well. The only problem is now the wife is annoyed becasue her nail polish remove became part of my heli tool kit.
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Old Sep 12, 2012, 08:19 AM
S4ntai is offline
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Sloooooow Flyer
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Help Please Blade Question


Hello,

I broke one of the blade and replace only one instead of the pair,

Is the code on the blade should be matching as a pair?

Cause i notice I'm getting a lot of vibration when it's not matching, but when i replace it as a set it's fine.

What's your though about this?
Old Sep 12, 2012, 09:07 AM
LittleMo is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Makdaddy View Post
I found using my wife's acetone nail polish remover to work quite well for debonding. Fancy stuff from the nail pro store.
You have to watch out with acetone on plastic though, it will destroy many types or make them brittle.
Old Sep 12, 2012, 09:38 AM
ercapoccia is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RicksterRC View Post
I'm not sure what/where the 100mV comes from.
My bad, it is actually 100mW.

I've already seen your post it is very informative.
I was looking for some small led on the bay and i found 3mm brite white led. They should be lighter and draw the battery slower.

My calc was (4V - 2,5V) : 0,015A = 100 ohm
How low i can go with the current? Is 5mA enough?


Thanks for your help
Old Sep 12, 2012, 10:03 AM
Daryoon is online now
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Team WarpSquad
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The higher the resistor value, the lower the brightness of the LED. A 100ohm resistor should be fine.
Old Sep 12, 2012, 11:44 AM
Ribble is offline
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Crash and learn
Quote:
Originally Posted by Makdaddy View Post
I found using my wife's acetone nail polish remover to work quite well for debonding. Fancy stuff from the nail pro store.
Always good to do a test run on the same type plastic or carbon fiber to see if it also dissolves or weakens the plastic.

Most times a little heat helps the de-bonding process. Remember though that these plastics melt very easily with little heat.

Hot water will also help to remove superglue or allow bending plastic to a new shape.

Quote:
Originally Posted by S4ntai View Post
I broke one of the blade and replace only one instead of the pair
Buy extra blades and always replace the pair. Gives you a chance to use a lighter color to see better Then you have extra old blades if you run out of new ones.

Banggood - main blades
http://www.banggood.com/buy/v911/ind...0-0_page3.html

Tomtop - main blades - 30 pairs may be more than you need.
http://www.aliexpress.com/store/7012...eeShipCountry=
Last edited by Ribble; Sep 12, 2012 at 12:01 PM.
Old Sep 12, 2012, 12:42 PM
Ricomon is online now
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All is right with the universe. The heli I ordered from BangGood on Sunday has shipped. ...and not a moment too soon. I've been practicing the four channel heli on the simulator for the last two weeks. Last night I decided to take a flight with my three channel co-ax heli. Aileron input produced yaw, and rudder input did nothing at all. (no big surprise!) It seems that I am no longer capable of flying a three channel heli. ...which is a good thing.

Rick
Old Sep 12, 2012, 12:55 PM
shafter is offline
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I use 56 ohm SMD resistors, because i like to have LED @20mA and full brightness.

Calculator shows that array of 4 LED's and 4 56 ohm resistors for my V929, only draw 80 mA from main battery.

I don't think it effects flight power too much(how much those motors draw under full load ???), those 4 LED's can lit for 7-8 hours from 600 mAh battery
Old Sep 12, 2012, 12:57 PM
Judderman is offline
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"Beware of the ..."
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I got my Helios flybar today from Bangood
Sanded do the ball links with very fine grit sand paper
Centre pivot went straight on with no alteration
First test flight in the house and it hovers perfect hands off
The heli seams to climb quicker on throttle input but maybe its just in my head
Will give it a go outside when the weather gets better
Old Sep 12, 2012, 01:15 PM
Big_Kid is offline
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Didn't Care For Them


Before my V911 main motor gave up the ghost I tried the MSR paddles. Didn't really care for the way it handled. With that being said, first $6.00 gets you the 4 paddles and stock flybar, fitted with a set of the paddles. PM me if interested.
Old Sep 12, 2012, 01:32 PM
Makdaddy is offline
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Doink-not again :)...aka Greg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Budasac View Post
I used acetone to remove a tail boom as well. Worked very well. The only problem is now the wife is annoyed becasue her nail polish remove became part of my heli tool kit.
Yea was giving me the look (you know the look) .

Quote:
Originally Posted by LittleMo View Post
You have to watch out with acetone on plastic though, it will destroy many types or make them brittle.
I found this thread talking about debonders. Acetone does work as I have used it mutliple times (tail boom mostly). Most plastics or CF, as far as I can tell, it does not have any effect.The container is plastic. I know there are many different types of plastics but we are talking about a $20.00 Heli. Actually I have used it to clean the gears also with no effect. I guess use at your own risk.
Old Sep 12, 2012, 02:23 PM
RoboHeli is offline
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Safety : practice & promote!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Judderman View Post
I got my Helios flybar today from Bangood
Sanded do the ball links with very fine grit sand paper
Centre pivot went straight on with no alteration
First test flight in the house and it hovers perfect hands off
The heli seams to climb quicker on throttle input but maybe its just in my head
Will give it a go outside when the weather gets better
Great to hear! How long is the flybar? Can you measure it?

Sorry if that's been posted before, I may have just forgotten to write it down...
Old Sep 12, 2012, 02:36 PM
RicksterRC is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ercapoccia View Post
My bad, it is actually 100mW.

I've already seen your post it is very informative.
I was looking for some small led on the bay and i found 3mm brite white led. They should be lighter and draw the battery slower.

My calc was (4V - 2,5V) : 0,015A = 100 ohm
How low i can go with the current? Is 5mA enough?


Thanks for your help
White is probably 3.2V, not 2.5 and 5mA is 0.005A.

But anyway, how low can you go? As low as you want. It will just be less bright. Because of the way our eye senses lighty, you can probably cut the current in half and barely notice the decrease. All depends if you want to see it in the daytime, or only at night.

I run white LEDs on the high side, because the battery voltage so quickly drops below 4.2V. As soon as it gets to 3.7, you'll have half the brightness.
(4.2-3.2 = 1, 1 / 0.020 = 50) If you design for 20mA with a 50 Ohm, as soon as the battery is 3.7 it's 10mA...

All depends if you want a headlight, or a side light. Daylight or nitghtlight.
Old Sep 12, 2012, 02:59 PM
stonecutter is offline
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Sir Crashalot
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Servo hesitation


I had noticed for a while now that my red/white doesn't quite respond as nicely as my yellow, and I have two red/whites and they both seem to behave similarly. So I took a closer look and they both have what I'd call servo hesitations. With the motor running, the aileron servo clearly has an occasional hiccup (responds after momentary delay, is jumpy at times, or ignore input completely if stick is released quickly enough). The following video I hope can demonstrate what I'm talking about.

wl toys v911 demonstration of servo hesitation (0 min 55 sec)


Edit: I had the newer rev 6 boards that KKDDMM's post a few pages back showed. (Square crystal, brown chip connected to aileron servo). Here's the link to that post.
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...ostcount=12404

Edit2: It's not my imagination, it's impossible to control the aileron servo arm smoothly while the motor is running. It seems to have certain spots along its travel that it just jumps to even when the input is smooth and linear (as smoothly as I could move the stick anyway.) I don't recall the older versions have this problem. If other people observe the same thing please post.
Last edited by stonecutter; Sep 12, 2012 at 08:25 PM.
Old Sep 12, 2012, 08:25 PM
TapouT21 is offline
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Don't Drink & Fly
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Since so many read this topic, would anyone with a good amount of electronic circuit knowledge please PM me, I would greatly appreciate it! I want to ask a question about a circuit to drop voltage a little bit (will explain why in a pm, and why it may not be as simple as it sounds), THANKS!


Quote:
Originally Posted by john631 View Post
This forum is a bit different and I didn't realize I should have been posting here as opposed to making a thread for my problems.

Had everything re-soldered but the wires for the tail motor were on the outside of the mount for the tail motor.

I have the thing apart again and have more parts ordered for the re-fix. Do you guys not put the wires inside like it does come from the factory? Should I just run the wires on the outside and cover them with electrical tape to protect them? The replacement might not the the exact same either?

Also want to share how I took the boom, or what was left of it out of the main body. I used a 5/64 drill bit and drilled two holes from the sides, then from there it was cake to pull the old parts out. Even used the drill bit to drill out from the back where the boom enters the body to clean that all up.
I have posted new topics for V911 questions when I first came here too. I have not done a tail boom yet but if possible want the wires inside. I would weight any tape or thin heatshirnk before I use it to see what it adds in weight. I have liquid tape as well I used to use for an extra seal on high voltage deep water splices, but it will add weight as well.

I plan to use the BSI un-cure I have to remove the glue when I need to take a tail-boom off or nail polish remover like other stated, should do the same.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pancari View Post

I was surfing thru TY and I came across a WL 319, infrared, a coaxial heli that squirts water but it seems to me that the heli was just p-e-e-ing on the floor, great way to piss off the wife.
Not sure if a WL Toys but I seen a Co-Ax like that and also one with a little claw on it to grab stuff.


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