WLToys V911 review (Solo Pro/Trex 100 clone) - Page 377 - RC Groups
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Apr 02, 2012, 07:31 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wasp09
I just flew my V911 out in the wet snow/rain.

With high rate on, I still found it too slow in the wind. It was about 10km/H according to weather report.

My V911 could hardly move forwards with nose down right into the wind. It got blown away quickly pointing a little off, not into the wind directly. It was like swimming upstream, a struggle.

One of my batteries could not even keep pace right from start. I hope it was just not fully charged and not dead.

To me the V911 is more suitable for a calm day or with light breeze below 5km/H.

I haven't received my spare flybars to do any mod yet.

If it stop snowing/raining. Perhaps I should try my V120D02S. I don't want the more expensive electronics getting too wet.
As long as it isn't raining or snowing hard, and you are flying at a decent speed I don't think the electronics will see to much moisture.

We didn't get any snow down here yesterday, but we did get a fair amount of rain. I never tried to fly because it was too windy to test my flybar repair. This morning on the other hand it is cool, but no wind what so ever. I am finding early morning late evenings are the best times for outdoor flying here because of the lake of wind
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Apr 02, 2012, 08:22 AM
Registered User

no expo


Quote:
Originally Posted by RoboHeli
No, I'm good, thanks. I've already set my Turnigy 9x for my 9958 so I know how to do change values. However, I'm always eager to see what settings other folks are using.

Why no expo, just out of curiosity? No need for it indoors?
Honestly have no idea what it does. Feel free to educate me, I would be glad to try it......
Apr 02, 2012, 08:32 AM
Registered User
Well I couldn't stay down and had to try CA one more time. surprisingly the combination of the JB Weld left on the break and CA is holding up amazingly well. It held up to two really hard diggers and a hard wall bounce with no signs of letting go. If it holds up till the replacement parts get here I think I will use it for some experimenting, shortened flybar, different weights and so on.
Apr 02, 2012, 08:43 AM
Registered User
cpuken's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by cgpirre
I never soldered before, so I was very nervous putting that hot thing so close to my only tx board. But everything worked out, and I even had a cool flipswitch that fit like it was made to go in the tx
And boy, what an incredible difference it makes! I greatly recommend this mod to everyone!
I used 2.7k resistors, and like promised on full throw it still turns at full speed, but it is also possible to make it spin as calmly as an S107, I love it, thanks a lot, wasp!
OK, you guys have peaked my interest in this mod...
I really not 100% sure I've followed the earlier drawings or know where to add this resistors. Would you mind coming up with a mod explaination for dummies with pics/drawings etc. The more details the better. Since I'll never get one of those cheaper Turnigy 9X transmitters since they are only making 1 per month

Thanks in advance for anyone who post a detailed explanation of this mod.
Apr 02, 2012, 08:48 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by SG Mason Knives
Well I couldn't stay down and had to try CA one more time. surprisingly the combination of the JB Weld left on the break and CA is holding up amazingly well. It held up to two really hard diggers and a hard wall bounce with no signs of letting go. If it holds up till the replacement parts get here I think I will use it for some experimenting, shortened flybar, different weights and so on.
I broke my flybar in two different locations right next to hub. I had to CA it several times until it hold in crash. It hold since then.
Apr 02, 2012, 08:59 AM
Registered User
cpuken's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by cgpirre
Some photos of my modded TX for those who might be interested:

I've had these switches for a while now, but didn't find a good application yet, but I was delighted to find that they fit -perfectly- in the dummy button space inside the tx:
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y29...3-31010842.jpg

Drilled out the dummy button and put the switch in:
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y29...3-31190203.jpg

Everything connected:
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y29...3-31194858.jpg

Close up of the contact points:
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y29...3-31194928.jpg
So, let me be sure I'm following this... add those wires, at those points with those resistors and there were no traces cut on the pcb to make this work??
I actually think I might be able to do this.
Apr 02, 2012, 09:11 AM
Zet
Zet
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by cpuken
OK, you guys have peaked my interest in this mod...
I really not 100% sure I've followed the earlier drawings or know where to add this resistors. Would you mind coming up with a mod explaination for dummies with pics/drawings etc. The more details the better. Since I'll never get one of those cheaper Turnigy 9X transmitters since they are only making 1 per month

Thanks in advance for anyone who post a detailed explanation of this mod.
Take a look at this photo: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...postcount=5202

What you want is one resistor between each outer point and the middle point.
I recommend that you use 2.2 K resistors (red-red-red-gold). (I have tried 1.5 K but it was to much dampening).
Optional: if you would like to be able to disable the mod, insert a switch between the middle leg and the circuit board, take a look at my diagram in this post: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...postcount=5247

And do it! It's like a new heli!
Apr 02, 2012, 09:21 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by cpuken
So, let me be sure I'm following this... add those wires, at those points with those resistors and there were no traces cut on the pcb to make this work??
I actually think I might be able to do this.
I created an updated diagram with the resistor mod with 4 different variants.

Variant A: The simplest. Fixed 2x2.7k resistors.
Variant B: Same as A but with added switch to disable the mod.
Variant C: Same as A but with changeable potentiometer of 5k.
Variant D: Same as C but with added switch.
Apr 02, 2012, 09:27 AM
Registered User
cgpirre's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by cpuken
So, let me be sure I'm following this... add those wires, at those points with those resistors and there were no traces cut on the pcb to make this work??
I actually think I might be able to do this.
Correct. The hardest part is soldering the cables to those points on the pcb because they are close together and you can't use a lot of solder.
I don't know if I broke any 'soldering rules' with this, but I first melted some solder onto the wire, and used that to attach the wire to the board, so I didn't need to put the soldering iron so close to the pcb for too long.

If you located the 3 pins on the pcb, the outer pins each have a resistor, the other ends of both resistors connect together to 1 leg of the switch, and the middle pin goes to the other leg of the switch (if you want to have a switch, of course).
No other soldering on the pcb except those 3 points, and no need to cut anything.

It's not exactly easy if you don't have much soldering experience, it took me about 1.5 hours in total, but it's totally worth it!


About the flybar, my new bnf (copter) has a lot more flybar strikes and it's 'droopy' compared to lost corter. Would it be a good idea to use some heatshrink or something to make it a little bit stiffer?
Or would it even be possible to shorten it? I was thinking of doing this with a combination of CA and heatshrink tube to keep it together.
I've read a whole lot about it now in this thread, but I didn't find a real good solution for it yet, besides replacing a whole lot of parts.
Apr 02, 2012, 09:56 AM
It flies!!! ... so who cares ?
erdnuckel2's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by cgpirre
Correct. The hardest part is soldering the cables to those points on the pcb because they are close together and you can't use a lot of solder.
I don't know if I broke any 'soldering rules' with this, but I first melted some solder onto the wire, and used that to attach the wire to the board, so I didn't need to put the soldering iron so close to the pcb for too long.

If you located the 3 pins on the pcb, the outer pins each have a resistor, the other ends of both resistors connect together to 1 leg of the switch, and the middle pin goes to the other leg of the switch (if you want to have a switch, of course).
No other soldering on the pcb except those 3 points, and no need to cut anything.

It's not exactly easy if you don't have much soldering experience, it took me about 1.5 hours in total, but it's totally worth it!


About the flybar, my new bnf (copter) has a lot more flybar strikes and it's 'droopy' compared to lost corter. Would it be a good idea to use some heatshrink or something to make it a little bit stiffer?
Or would it even be possible to shorten it? I was thinking of doing this with a combination of CA and heatshrink tube to keep it together.
I've read a whole lot about it now in this thread, but I didn't find a real good solution for it yet, besides replacing a whole lot of parts.
The best idea I know is to spend 7.20$ + shipping to get an Xtreme Solo Pro CF flybar. (you can still think about shortening this or experiment with weights later)
Since I have mine on my V911 I am not even able to induce flybar strikes anymore (at least I havent been yet, no matter how hard I tried ...)
Latest blog entry: Random Pictures ...
Apr 02, 2012, 10:04 AM
Registered User
cgpirre's Avatar
But don't I also need to get another head then? Or does it fit right away? And I read the CF flybars break easily, I'm still a beginner so I crash quite often ._.
Apr 02, 2012, 10:05 AM
Registered User
This is not necissarily Tech info, but I just got off the phone with http://helircstore.com/, and I will say without a doubt these guys have great customer service, well worth the extra price in my opinion. The reason for my call to them was to add another part to my order, and I ended up having a 15 minute conversation with him about our little gem the V911
Apr 02, 2012, 10:06 AM
Registered User
MassiveOverkill's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by cgpirre
Correct. The hardest part is soldering the cables to those points on the pcb because they are close together and you can't use a lot of solder.
I don't know if I broke any 'soldering rules' with this, but I first melted some solder onto the wire, and used that to attach the wire to the board, so I didn't need to put the soldering iron so close to the pcb for too long.

If you located the 3 pins on the pcb, the outer pins each have a resistor, the other ends of both resistors connect together to 1 leg of the switch, and the middle pin goes to the other leg of the switch (if you want to have a switch, of course).
No other soldering on the pcb except those 3 points, and no need to cut anything.

It's not exactly easy if you don't have much soldering experience, it took me about 1.5 hours in total, but it's totally worth it!


About the flybar, my new bnf (copter) has a lot more flybar strikes and it's 'droopy' compared to lost corter. Would it be a good idea to use some heatshrink or something to make it a little bit stiffer?
Or would it even be possible to shorten it? I was thinking of doing this with a combination of CA and heatshrink tube to keep it together.
I've read a whole lot about it now in this thread, but I didn't find a real good solution for it yet, besides replacing a whole lot of parts.
Tinning wires first is important to soldering and actually a recommended good practice. They say you should heat up the wire first and then apply solder. I find this makes the insulation hard and brittle. Instead, I apply some solder to my iron tip and touch it to the wire and hold it long enough to transfer heat and thoroughly tin the wire tip. The solder does a good job of transferring the needed heat to the wire vs trying to heat up the wire first.

Since I've cut off the stock weights and installed my padldles, I have noticed that I no longer get the limp noodle affect.

Xtreme carbon flybar does have its drawbacks, including the already-mentioned prone to breakage problem.
Apr 02, 2012, 11:03 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by bobepine
I used the same msr flybar to add the paddles on my V911 flybar. I'm not using any glue. The paddles are removable. I drilled the paddles to insert the flybar into them, then I balanced it. Finally, I drilled a tiny hole on top of the paddles and I inserted a tiny screw that goes through the paddle and into the flybar rod. If you look closely, you can actually see the little screws that hold the paddles on the flybar:



Best,
Chris
I wanted to drill them out as well and put in set screws. But I really wanted to try it with the carbon fiber tube and there wouldn't have been enough meat on the paddles if I drilled them out. Good to see that this is actually a feasible option for the stock flybar though.
Apr 02, 2012, 11:26 AM
Registered User
So has any given any thought to changing out the toggle button for high rates to a flip switch? Now that we have this resistor mod on a toggle, we could have another matching toggle for the high/low rate. Also much easier to know which rate it is currently in. (assuming you know which way the switch should be flipped) Just a thought...


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