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Sep 20, 2012, 09:40 AM
It flies!!! ... so who cares ?
erdnuckel2's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by RoboHeli View Post
Arrrgh. Trying to stock up on spare parts for this heli seems to be more trouble than its worth. WLToys keeps changing the version in subtle ways so that older spare parts don't fit properly anymore without mods. Then the vendors have to sell out their older stock before they get the new stuff in to match the newer helis... First there was the skids (I have a v1 set of skids that don't have the screw) then there were the blades (I have older blades that don't fit my newer head) and now there's another variant of the v911 out with a new flybar and other bits.

I think the ONLY thing to do is just buy BNF helis and don't bother with spares unless you buy the spares at the same time and from the same store as the BNF. Or does anybody else have a better system that they found works?
I think, ... you TOTALLY nailed that one Robo!!!
(its what I been promoting all along, mainly because of my lack in skills to exchange tail motors by soldering wires the size of human hairs of any of that stuff)

The V911 (the original one anyway) is "tough enuff" that you barely wont need any spares anyway (EXCEPT once you decide to go the modding route ...) so the easiest is probably to start out with 2 or 3 of them and then order a BNF to "restock" once the first of them fails ... otherwise its just ...

HAPPY FLYING!!!
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Sep 20, 2012, 09:59 AM
Registered User
Buying spare parts when you purchase the heli is a good idea if you ask me. It's real annoying to be down due a busted flybar or blades when it takes 1 minute to change them out AND they only cost a couple bucks extra... much less than a new BNF. I recommend buying 3 sets of blades, 2 flybars and 2 tail booms with the RTF because you will likely damage them eventually. Tail boom requires quite a bit more work and some soldering skills but still worth it to me to have a couple booms on hand. I just hate having a perfectly flyable heli sitting on the shelf due to a busted $2 part.
Sep 20, 2012, 10:08 AM
Krueminator
Crashed my v911 into pavement from 30 up and no damage.
Sep 20, 2012, 10:09 AM
Yo R Wee Too Lo
Quote:
Originally Posted by MC808 View Post
I'm curious if you got the knobs to function as trim adjustments?
i have all knobs set at 0 (midway) and i havent used them i didnt know that the y were for trim thanks
tonytester
Sep 20, 2012, 10:25 AM
Registered User
cgpirre's Avatar
I forgot who was busy with the wiki, but I just made a blog post for new v911 users, feel free to use anything from it on the wiki!
Sep 20, 2012, 10:41 AM
An Ordinary User
Quote:
Originally Posted by nagromnewo View Post
Does this mean that my 7 batteries and existing charger won't work? How about the yellow V911? Is that compatible with my batteries and charger?
The NE batteries that I use in my blue/white v911 work fine in the Yellow v911. The battery holder is a little bit tighter on the yellow, but they do fit.

Does the Yellow v911 come as RTF yet? I got the bnf and it doesn't fit in the box perfectly because it's a very slightly different shape than the previous v911s.

Thanks!
Sep 20, 2012, 11:14 AM
Sir Crashalot
stonecutter's Avatar
Seems the recent batches of yellows (board date 2012/06/24) do not have connectors. On the plus side, the motor is no longer lackluster, now it is on par w/ other color v911's. (My observations on my sample, YMMV.)
Last edited by stonecutter; Sep 20, 2012 at 11:23 AM.
Sep 20, 2012, 11:22 AM
Registered User
Is there any place that one can find a tutorial for new 4channel flyers? I've seen a couple that teach basics with training gear, but I'm wondering about one that illustrates stick movements for easy tricks to more complicated tricks.
Sep 20, 2012, 12:01 PM
umop apisdn - downside up
nagromnewo's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by stonecutter View Post
Seems the recent batches of yellows (board date 2012/06/24) do not have connectors. On the plus side, the motor is no longer lackluster, now it is on par w/ other color v911's. (My observations on my sample, YMMV.)
Or the bird shed some weight?

Has anyone weighed the Yellow with or without connectors to compare with our other birds?

Owen
Sep 20, 2012, 12:07 PM
umop apisdn - downside up
nagromnewo's Avatar

V911 scale fueslage?


Has anyone fit a scale fuselage on the V911. I love the look of the Solo Pro Bravo SX and would love to mod a V911 with a fuselage similar to this.

Regards,

Owen
Sep 20, 2012, 12:18 PM
Quad Erat Demonstrandum
scousethief's Avatar
Yes i put a hughes 500 fuse on one of mine from a nine eagles heli.
Sep 20, 2012, 12:19 PM
Team Drone Art
Daryoon's Avatar
@nagromnewo...Someone just shared that not too long ago. It's probably buried a number of pages back since this thread flies by so quickly. Keep going backwards until you see the photo.
Sep 20, 2012, 12:48 PM
Registered User
Ricomon's Avatar
Here's a scale MD500 fuselage on one. It's the Bravo, in fact. I think it looks great.

Rick
Sep 20, 2012, 12:53 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by elkabong80 View Post
Just looking at it with no battery in and the forward / backward one is tilted down slightly and the other is up slightly. I seem to recall noting this when I first looked at it before my first flight. Do I just loosen the screw and level it then tighten the screw again? I don't know what splined means... It would be totally worth having to do all over again if it means close to perfect trim without touching the digital trim on the tx. Definitely going to be ordering a 5 pack of extra batteries and another charger. This is addicting!
"Splined" is the servo shaft and arm hole are shaped like gears.
They can mesh in a number of positions.

You need to remove the screw and carefully pop the arm off.
Find a better gear tooth setting and pop it back on.

Do this with the RX and TX on, but the trims all centered.
That will make the servo stay in the "center" while you play with it.
Sep 20, 2012, 03:33 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by RicksterRC View Post
"Splined" is the servo shaft and arm hole are shaped like gears.
They can mesh in a number of positions.

You need to remove the screw and carefully pop the arm off.
Find a better gear tooth setting and pop it back on.

Do this with the RX and TX on, but the trims all centered.
That will make the servo stay in the "center" while you play with it.
Oh wow. That's easier than I thought it would be. I'm on it tonight!


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