Lumenier RB2205C-12 2400KV SKITZO Ceramic Bearing Motor
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Old Oct 29, 2012, 11:07 PM
TheMagician007 is offline
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How are you getting to the screws?
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Old Oct 30, 2012, 01:08 AM
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Yep...


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Originally Posted by mjdee14 View Post
Is that You Mr "T"?
...'tis I.
Old Oct 30, 2012, 09:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Avllino View Post
How are you getting to the screws?
You remove the motor and check the back 4 screws holding the X bracket.
Old Oct 30, 2012, 10:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mjdee14 View Post
You remove the motor and check the back 4 screws holding the X bracket.
+1. I forgot to mention that too. I guess there were more mods than I thought! Just check the attachment list on the the thread and go from nose to tail. Shouldn't take more than 2 hours. Have fun with it, it is one of the if not the best foamie I've flown for all around flying for less than $200! Still can't believe it.
Old Oct 30, 2012, 10:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mjdee14 View Post
You remove the motor and check the back 4 screws holding the X bracket.
Lock tight all metal to metal screws!
Old Oct 30, 2012, 05:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dth7 View Post
Lock tight all metal to metal screws!
Right on....learned that from Helis....I even loctighted all the cabane strut screws....PITA when you have to take it apart a few times....
Old Oct 30, 2012, 11:59 PM
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The motor seems pretty hard to get to from the front...what am I missing? Have others been able to get to it??
Old Oct 31, 2012, 12:00 AM
the_walrus is offline
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The cowl is magnetic with guides top and bottom. Just work it back and forth and it will come off.
Old Oct 31, 2012, 12:19 AM
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Ohh cool!! Thanks I had no idea it was magnetic....new the battery hatch was (obviously), but not the cowl.
Old Oct 31, 2012, 07:45 PM
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Found another tweak that I may have missed earlier. Falls under licktighting everything. The axles! They are Phillips screws from inboard with nuts inside the pants. They go through the wheel and thread into the outboard pant. Couldn't understand why I was nosing over landings til I checked to find one wheel binding. Landing with the "brakes" on will certainly nose it over! Tightened both and put some Welders on the screw head to prevent it from backing out again. Still very happy with it. It's stable enough in wind to even practice some IMAC!
Old Nov 01, 2012, 08:06 PM
fishdeth is offline
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Haven't had the time to get out and fly mine much, work is REALLY slammed !
Was much better last time with the battery moved back some.
Gonna try it a little farther aft and see how close to neutral inverted I can get.

Jim
Old Nov 02, 2012, 06:35 PM
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well i bought mine today hopefully it gets here soon
Old Nov 05, 2012, 02:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1111Mavrick View Post
On a comic side note, has anyone ever used this method before?

(Question) How do you know what motor to use?

How I decided on that motor,I took the KV rating multiplied it by the number of Lipo cells, divided by milliamps then took the prop size cut one blade off,measured the diameter and got the square root of the length of the field I'm flying at,glued the blade back on and divided it by pie R squared,got that Number and took a dump on it then used a temperature probe in the feces and if it was over 98 I went with a lower KV motor....
OMG This had me ROTFLMAO!!!! I am still freaking laughing as I type this! Too Funny!!
Old Nov 05, 2012, 02:19 PM
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Originally Posted by dth7 View Post
...Note- take an hour or two to do the recommended mods (see attachments to thread for the pics)...
I have been using forums for years and NEVER knew about this!! Awesome. Thx
Old Nov 05, 2012, 03:27 PM
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Tried the APC 14x7 prop on Sat. It's a nice improvement and pulls 44 amps per a previous post that I found on this thread.

The difference wasn't super huge but definately noticeable. A little more punch, more speed, better vertical and no issues at all with the stock ESC. Yep, the trusty Peaks just got a little more fun if you can believe that.

Justin


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