Sep 24, 2012, 02:45 AM
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Gorilla glue= any polyurethane based glue , found colourless or little brownish in Finland. Used in wood construction. In liquid form very sticky, you can clean residue with acetone only. When dried its hard to remove. If applied with water it will foam out to 3-4x of its liquid size.
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Sep 24, 2012, 11:21 AM
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Don't expand the Gorilla Glue with will make it too brittle.

I looked at mine again and the Gorilla Glue is as hard as a rock and it's darker than one of my foamy planes that I left outside in Nor Tx USA to dry....

Well, when I did the 120 it was dry in nor Texas and we had the AC on so when it did dry it expanded but it didn't expand a lot and what did expand dried into something that resembles stone.

On the foamy the Gorilla Glue could be easily scraped away....with the 120mm fan I can try a Chef knife and the blades on the knife will break before the Gorilla Glue does.

Try and dry the Gorilla Glue in a dry environment, it'll still expand but not puff up..

Someone in the other thread tried the white Gorilla glue and it was easy to tell it didn't looked foamy between the blades.

Also, try to get the blade bases as tight in as possible.

My first test with with Vice Grips on some broken blades, I tried to chisel between those blades 2 months later and it's a no go...I don't think anything will break those blades apart and I think one of the factors is how tight they were allowed to glue together with the vice grips
Sep 24, 2012, 01:24 PM
Registered User
I have managed to get the glue look like brown glass when it has dried up in the bottle. Like amber.
Sep 24, 2012, 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Ceeray View Post
I have managed to get the glue look like brown glass when it has dried up in the bottle. Like amber.
Yes, mine looked like a glassy rock...

I did mine on accident, how do you do this so it drys like a the brown glass?

Is it a matter of environment?

Sep 24, 2012, 03:08 PM
Registered User
I think I accidentally kept the bottle open too much when using it. Then I had a break from building, like 5 months..

It was half a bottle and top 1cm of it dried up like glass.
Sep 25, 2012, 02:22 AM
Registered User
Do you know "Stabilit Express" from Henkel ?
Sep 27, 2012, 05:03 PM
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I am finishing up my bench work on the CS12-120 and I have finally got it where it is smooth as a baby's a$$. I static balanced it and that was relatively easy. It is perfect balance, static. The big problem was the run out when mounted. The collet adapter is dead on with the HET 700-98-520 motor.... less than .001 run out. But the fan blade holder is not even close. Fan run out was .008, not acceptable. My solution was to add two layers of aluminum tape ( like for heating & air ducts) to one side of the back plate of the fan adapter causing the fan assembly to skew to the low side of the run out. When I tightened the rotor down, much to my surprise the runout went down to .001, more than satisfactory. It runs up nice and smooth now...... without the nose spinner. It has .005 run out all on its own. I think I'll fly it without the spinner.

The fan is in a RC Lander shroud but only using the rear section that carries the motor. I have an aluminum shim that fills the gap between the lander motor tunnel and the 39mm motor found some aluminum tube that when cut open with my dremel clamps down and compresses almost perfect with the motor and the 44 mm tunnel in the lander fan.... provides added stability and heat sinking for the motor. I made a 120 mm front shroud out of fibergalss and carbon fiber fabric that turned out oretty darn good. I drilled and tapped two holes that anchor the front shroud to the rear shroud with 3mm screws. Pretty solid.

I'll post some numbers from the ICE 120HV2 log later, but it sounds like a jet engine.... pretty loud and it is moving a lot of air. I'm anxious to try it in my Yellow A/C A-4 that weighs 15 lbs.
Sep 27, 2012, 07:44 PM
Registered User

Collet Question

I just got my fan and I am wondering how the collet gets loosened after its tightened onto the motor shaft.

Any help?

Also read the previous post about the fan not being straight on the mounting hub. Any way to make sure its nice and straight when the blades get glued together?
Last edited by Air Head; Oct 20, 2012 at 09:58 PM.
Oct 20, 2012, 09:52 PM
Registered User
Read back in the thread about the clock method. Think it is the best option for this fan. Wouldnt run it up without it!

[Also read the previous post about the fan not being straight on the mounting hub. Any way to maks sure its nice and straight when the blades get glued together?[/QUOTE]
Oct 21, 2012, 06:42 PM
Registered User

788 posts

Would you be able to point me to it?

I also read the previous post about the fan not being straight. Nothing about my question regarding gluing the blades together.

Thanks for the help

Last edited by Air Head; Oct 22, 2012 at 09:01 AM.
Oct 22, 2012, 11:33 PM
Registered User
Assembled another 120mm CS fan and ran it up and balanced first time even after PU-ing blades.

Collet was the clinching type and not grub screw type....

Seldom have fans balance out at all RPMs in first run up without static or dynamic balance
Oct 27, 2012, 04:16 AM
Registered User
Test....tonight and get 11.5lbs of thrust at 2580 watts with a 400kv motor...

2 of those fans are 23 - 24 lbs of thrust (with timing correct) at 5200-ish watts...~1.6lbs of weight

I'm starting to think we don't fly with EDFs efficiently enough
Oct 27, 2012, 08:48 AM
Lee Liddle
Knife Liddle's Avatar
Is that on 12s?
Oct 27, 2012, 03:22 PM
Registered User

(with timing correct)

Any clues on the timing?
Oct 27, 2012, 08:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Knife Liddle View Post
Is that on 12s?
Yes, 32 usd motor...I think I'll buy them out...

on 14s it's 15lbs around 75 amp

That's 30lbs of thrust at 150 amps 14s ..around 4lbs of packs...58oz between two 120mm fans..

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