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Nov 20, 2011, 03:44 AM
The original Flying Pigs Sqd.
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Top Models CZ Nike2


(Please note I would like to keep this blog "clean". If you have any questions and/or comments, please post them overhere.)

I have my Tango F5J for thermaling, a WeaselPro for the slope, and a FunWorld EP400 to try my aerobatic skills, or lack thereof, and some other assorted flying toys. But since the demise of my 42" Unicorn (now undergoing a lengthy process of refurbishing cum test bed to try new techniques) I have nothing speedy to slam about.

After much deliberation with myself, I finally opted to spend my birthday funds on a Nike2 as my next project.
Looking at prices and availability it quickly became apparent that buying directly from Czechia was (for me) the best option. Also, here I could buy the ARC (Almost Ready to Cover) version, which I preferred any way as I didn't really like their colour scheme. It will also make it easier to do some mods on the wings. AND it was cheaper. A lot cheaper. Postage was less then what I saved on the ARC version. So you might say I earned some money here…

Email communications with TopModel CZ were excellent, and after some questions (and answers) funds were hurled through cyberspace. Within a few weeks I received notification that a package had arrived at my local neighbourhood postoffice. Not the main one in town where I am usually send to pick up my large parcels, due to the payment of custom duties and import taxes. Why? The invoice on the box stated "test model - $10.-" So no duties to be paid…

Always an exciting sight:

Nicely double boxed:

And properly packed:

Revealing the contents:


So, all seems great!

Having read the little info that is available here on RCG, I think the current Nike2 has been improved somewhat.
The fuse:
Nicely made fiberglass fuse. And straight as an arrow. I will lay some fiberglass inside in the wing and canopy area.

Carbon fiber inside from the nose to the tail
View from the nose to the tail

View from the top of the tail:

An original...

Here as well, I will lay some fiberglass inside the top of the fuse, in the corners of the wing bed. There, almost every fiberglass fuse, will show cracks eventually.

The wings show some apparent improvements as well:
Root:

Front wing hold down, now with copper tube inside:

Rear wing hold down, now also with a copper tube inside:

Wing TE at the aileron section. No open foam in view...

Servo bay, with a tunnel for the servo wiring:

Wingroot bottom:

I will lay about an inch wide fiberglass on the top and bottom of the wingroot.

Elevator top:

Elevator bottom:

Close up of elevator hold down. Now, if they've put nice copper tubes in the wing, why not in the elevator?

Here as well I will lay some fiberglass on the top and bottom, and possibly a second nut & bolt. Also, I want to keep the elevator removable, so the fiberglass will be needed. I may insert a copper tube here as well.

A massive iron wing spar (replace with CF?):

And a nicely done black fiberglass canopy:


The only thing missing (probably seeing as this is the ARC version) is a decal sheet.

Judging from the instruction sheet, this is absolutely not a beginner's model. "Basic" would not begin to describe it. Having said that, if you don't know how to build the Nike, you probably shouldn't be flying her either...
But after a few years flying, lots of repairs, several kits, ARF's and scratch build projects, this one should not pose that much of a problem. Although the elevator servo seems a bit mind boggling. How the heck do I get the servo in there without smearing glue all over the inside of the tail and leave enough on for it to stick properly...?


I intended to use a HS-81MG for the elevator. Seeing that the 81 is 11mm wide, and that on the TopModelCZ site a 9mm servo is recommended, I started to worry a bit.

Also, I tried to figure out how to insert the servo into the tail and glue it in properly.

So, I made this little contraption:


To fit over the servo tabs:


and a piece to keep the tail open (that sounds dirty but it isn't...)


Holding the servo in the contraption, I inserted the servo, and behold; it doesn't fit. Or, it fits as long as I don't mind if the servo arm binds against the inside of the tail...


Another servo must be found...

I found one. A Hyperion Atlas DS09 from Aircraft-World.

Meanwhile, back in the workshop...
The manual wants you to use a hook and elastic band to keep the canopy in place. But as I am not going to use the battery tray, and therefore will not have anywhere for a hook to screw into, I opted for my tried & tested piece of pianowire epoxied to the inside of the canopy.


The fuse sides in the wing area seem a bit flimsy, so I layed down a few strips of scrap fiberglass across. You can't see it of course, but it's inside the blue lines...
(btw I think this pic also shows another improvement. Earlier pics of the fuse I've seen had one open wing saddle area. Here you can see that the wing saddle area is divided in two)


And finally, in preparations of my intended colour scheme, I sprayed the underside of the winglets silver.


Went down to the workshop and forgot my camera upstairs. So no pics. But I did cover one wing root with fiberglass. At first I thought to spray some 3M77 glue on, but with a white foam filled wing, that didn't seem to much of a good idea. So I painted a THIN strip of finishing epoxy on the wing (just enough for the fiberglass to stay in place), put down the fiberglass and wetted it out (finishing epoxy is perfect for this; nice and runny). Covered both sides with a few pieces of thin plastic sheeting (the flimsy plastic bags from supermarkets are great for this), a thin piece of foam on both sides, and weighed down to cure...
The other wing tomorrow, and maybe some pics...

Did the other wing, and brought the camera down with me.
First taping of the area, and get all ingredients ready


Measuring the dosage


And then work quickly to get it all done, let cure overnight


As mentioned before, trial fitting the 82's showed they were a smidge shy of being flush. So I used my dremmel (with the bendy extension cable; it's lighter and easier to handle) to take out the last of the foam. You have to be very carefull and patient doing this, it takes only a small hickup to put a nice hole in the balsa skin (don't ask how I know. I had a Filip600Sport once...). Once the foam was gone I put down a carbon fiber strip and covered the open area with a patch of fiberglass.




I also decided I didn't like the boring white fuse, so I sprayed some yellow and red on the nose and tail. She'll go much faster now.




Moving along, I started to cover the wings. Light (white) on top, and dark (blue on the bottom)



Smooth as a baby's bottom...


A splash of red, to break the monotone of the white top


and as promised; a blue bottom...


Smooth as that same baby's bottom as from the other wing picture...


And the ailerons.
Top

and bottom


Elevator done.

Top

and bottom


I just couldn't stop myself putting my final touch to the wings


And while I had the wings on the table I opened up the servo bay and other assorted openings. Past experience has showed that the easiest and cleanest way to do this is by using a very warm (not hot, or you'll burn the covering and it'll get brittle) soldering iron.


Finished with the covering now.
On to the wing servos. In the goody bags are 4 resin blocks, supposedly to fix the servo in the servobay. Using the recommended HS82mg servos, there is no way you can use these...


Without, the 82's are a perrrrrfect fit.


So, back to good ol' fashioned "potting". Let's see; epoxy, microballoons, plastic bag, mixing sticks...


Wrap the servo in a plastic bag. Mix epoxy and microballoons (50/50). Poor mixture in the servo bay. Press servo (inside plastic bag) into the servobay. Hold in place untill the epoxy mixture starts to dry. Pull servo out.


Let epoxy cure a bit more (depending on the surrounding humidity and temperature), and gently pull the plastic bag out.


While the epoxy cures, wrap the servo first in masking tape, and then in fibertape. Instead of fibertape I could have used heat shrink like used with battery packs instead, but my batterypack building stuff is upstairs and I couldn't be bothered...
The idea is that after I've glued the servo in place, I can easily remove the servo if necessary by simply cutting the tape (or the heatshrink...)


Now the servo is almost ready to be glued in. I only need to make the servo extension lead. I'll do that after I've done the other wing servo.

Rinse and repeat...
Only this time I remembered to tape of the area. Much easier to clean up afterwards...








Next, I soldered extension wires to the servos (ready-made extension won't fit inside the pre-dug tunnel). Pushed a 1mm pianowire from the servo bay to the wingroot and fished it out of the hole with a pair of small noseplyers. Taped the servo wire to the pianowire, and pulled it through. Simple.
The second wing wasn't so simple. The pianowire got stuck about halfway through. Try as I might, it wouldn't budge. I considered opening up the rootrib and push a sharpened copper tube through. Before doing that I decided to try and force the inner part of a Golden Rod bendy pushrod through. On the second try I succeeded! I left the pushrod in place, pushed the pianowire through the hollow pushrod, and then pulled the pushrod out, leaving the thin pianowire in place. After that I could continue with the servowire.
After that it was simple to solder a connector to both wing's wires.
For the time being, I am leaving the wings alone and will move on to the fuse.

First, I opened up the air intakes and exits with my Dremmel.

Dry fitting the motor to the supplied motormount showed that I need to make my own mount. The hole pattern of my motor will not fit, and drilling holes in the supplied mount will make it far to weak.

3mm liteply and two cross layers of 0.3 fiberglass, next to the supplied mount:


To trial fit the mount I used a piece of balsa with a dowel glued to it. It fits behind the mount, so I can move the mount around and check the fit for down/right angles. Once I got the angles right I put a few drops of thick CA in place and leave overnight. I prefer to check the angle again at the beginning of a building session. If ok, I will glue the mount in place with a few dots of epoxy on the inside, and epoxy with microballoons along the outside. The idea is that the mount can move back on impact without damaging the motor and/or axle...


Motormount position seems ok. I can allways fine-tune with some washers between the motor and the mount.

Epoxy with microballoons inside the fuse.


And regular "clean" epoxy outside.


The motor is a tight fit, but fit she does! The can turns without touching the wiring. I'll hot glue the wires to the fuse though.


The spinner fits, but I may need to do some work here.


Getting ready now to fit the wing on the fuse. So first; trial fitting the wingspar and incidence pin. Both fit fine in their respective hole, but where the spar has a stop inside the wing to prevent it dissapearing inside, the incidence pin has no such luxury and can easily slip inside the wing. So test fitting is a bit cumbersome, with noseplyers and carefull manouevering.
But they fit fine, so after a light sanding and cleaning with alcohol, I epoxied both the spar and the incidence pin in one wing half. The pin is a must, as explained above. With the spar I used a small drop of epoxy, just to keep it in place, so I won't loose the spar in transport and storage.


Before I tape the fuse to the table, to get the wings on, I need to put the elevator base on the tail.

Trial fitting the pin. There is a milimeter or so space left between the pin and the outside.


A small dab of epoxy with microballoons.


A piece of masking tape over it.


And rest the fuse on it's side. Let cure.


When almost set, I put the pin (with the base) in place, and pushed the pin through so on the other side a tiny bit of space was open.



And a drop of epoxy/microballoons here as well.


As the elevator is going to be removable I needed to do something about the bolt system holding the elevator in place. As is, there is just a hole in the elevator, through which the bolt goes. With removal and attaching repeatedly, that is going to wear out. So I cut a piece of aluminium tubing (aluminum for you Americans...) of the right size.


and inserted it in the slightly enlarged hole.


After trial fitting the elevator I realised that the bolt was to long to make the elevator sit tight, so I had to cut of 5mm...
To ensure I would have the elevator in the correct position each time, I test fitted the elevator, and measured the elevator_corners_to_nose distance. Then I marked it, removed the elevator, and CA'd two thin balsa pieces in place.


Now the elevator will be seated correctly everytime...

Taped the wing halves together, to test fit them on the fuse. I was pleasantly surprised how tight the wing halves fit together.



I made room on the dining-room table and taped the fuse to the table, making sure it was straight.(not realy vital right now, but I got a good "first look"how straight the wing fits: straight...)


Taped the wing to the fuse, using the roots center and the fuses' centerjoint as a first line-up.


A little tap here & there, and the measured distance wingtip to tail was equal. Taped the whole thing together, measured again, and drilled 3mm holes through.


Found a bit of a snag. The next step is glueing in the ply boards for the blind nuts.
First, the supplied ply is too thin for the blind nut.


And second, the inside of the fuse is not perfect flat. Ok, partly because of the epoxy/fiberglass filling I used to re-enforce the fuse side corners. But even after grinding that down with my dremmel, I still have a gap


I'm thinking to drill the holes in the ply, and fit the blind nuts. Then hold the ply in place with the wingbolts and clamp and fill the cavity with epoxy and microballoons...

Drilled the holes on the plywood, and glued some 1mm balsa over the holes, so the blind nuts won't come out at the other end, and so the nuts' teeth have something to sink into. A few choice taps with a hammer, and they're in.


The aluminium spacer is so I can tighten the bolt to pull the ply and nuts in place.


I first applied some 30 minute epoxy to the outer sides of the ply, to tack it into place, and held it in place with a few clamps.


After about 20 minutes the epoxy started to set, so I inserted the wing bolts, with the spacer.


Ofcourse, I wouldn't try any of this without applying a liberal amount of vaseline to the bolts, so as not to glue the bolts in place. That would be very unpleasant. I know...


And the rear ply plate done as well. The space between the ply plate and the fuse I filled with epoxy and microballoons (50/50).


On to the wings now.

I folded the aileron over, on top of the wing, and put three pieces of tape (3M Blenderm) to keep them in place.



I then put tape on the LE of the aileron, and TE of the wing. Turned the wing over, and taped the top of the aileron to the wing while holding the aileron in a full down position.


Must remember not to store the wings on the tip now, or the tip of the aileron will get damaged.


Before fitting the aileron pusrods, and the control horns I made sure everything fit.


The only thing I added was a piece of heatshrink on the clevis. All other supplied hardware was just fine.


Wingtips now.

Sanded the roots flat, and had a bit of a closer look at them. The seam is not in the middle. Worse, each tip is different!


I'll have to bring out my secret weapon to measure the middle...

I put some masking tape on the tip in order to mark where the dowels should go.


My secret weapon; a Great Planes hinge marking tool. Figuring the middle of the roots of both the fiberglass tip and the wing was a breeze.


Dowels glued in place with a small dot of epoxy.


Silver bottom tip.


And standard red top, to go with the red stripes.
Last edited by Up&Away; Dec 06, 2011 at 04:01 PM.
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Dec 06, 2011, 04:02 PM
The original Flying Pigs Sqd.
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Nike 2 continued


A bit of armchair flying:


The servo covers are temporarily held in place with masking tape. After final Tx programming I will fix them in place with blue packing tape.

CG marked at 65mm (factory states between 65 and 70)


Elevator servo taped to the tail.

With the ESC, BEC, and 4S battery up front the CG is closer to 70 than 65. I may need to add some lead to the nose

Work, family, life in general, took over for a while. Plus the fact that I have to keep at least some of my "fleet" in flying condition...

Anyway, I made a balsa servo pocket, to keep the arm movement free and maybe keep the servo removable.



Trial fitting the servo inside the tail is like picking your nose while wearing boxing gloves. I have a good mind to drop thin CA in there with a long dropper...


Ok then, I cobbled this together from some spare bits 'n pieces lying around. Looks like some medieval torture device? Or something your doctor would need (turn around, drop your pants, bend over...)?
I'll give you one guess what it's for.




No guessers?

Well then, y'all know then that I used this contraption to sand the inside of the fuse, and clean the sanded area with alcohol...

To make sure I get the recomended 8* up & down, I measured 10*


I attached the pushrod from the servo to the elevator plate and moved the servo so I got the 10*. I then dropped some thin CA on the balsa plate. When that had cured I followed with thick CA and kicker to create some fillets on 3 sides of the servo tray.


According to the manual a balsa stick is to be glued inside the tail. The supplied stick felt a bit weak, so I CA'd a strip of CF tow to it.


Anticipating difficulties getting it into place, I inserted two tiny screws, to get a grip on the thing.



The cf tow wasn't enough though to toughen up the balsa stick. It broke while trying to get it into place. So I used part of an old elevon I had in my spare box, made of two 2mm plates of balsa with CF sandwiched in between.


Whith some trial and error fitting, and some choice language, I got it into place (it's the thin line). I glued the stick in place with some thick CA from a dropper.


After that, all that was still to be done was closing the TE of the tail with some epoxy, clamp it closed, and let cure.


Moving along now.

I temporarily attached the prop blades to make sure the motor turns the right way (it didn't), and put some hot glue on the wiring to stop them from fouling with the turning motor. Hot glue, because it is easy to cleanly remove, if necessary.


To prevent damaging either the battery or the motor on a hard arrival, I made this little piece of insurance.


And hot glued it into place.


And a final piece of insurance, not to loose the canopy, a string of dental floss.
Last edited by Up&Away; Dec 26, 2011 at 10:48 AM.
Jan 01, 2012, 08:08 AM
E-flyer since 1981
Michael in Toronto's Avatar
Wow!

Impressive. Looks fast!
Jan 01, 2012, 09:44 AM
The original Flying Pigs Sqd.
Up&Away's Avatar
Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael in Toronto
Looks fast!
It's supposed to be... Just need to program my Tx and balance her. But first I've got to get to grips with back problems. They think it's spinal stenosis..


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