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Old Nov 26, 2011, 12:50 PM
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Vertical Stab Assembly


Now we're going to prepare and install the Vertical Stabilizer!

HET has created a pocket for your Rudder servo to drop into (a nice touch!). Pre-fit your servo and trim as necessary. Again, a strong, metal-gear servo is strongly recommended for the rudder; I chose a Hyperion DS-13TMB.
When happy with the fit of your servo, secure it to the airframe, but take care to place the servo in the proper orientation!

- The servo should be placed so that the output shaft will allow the servo horn to exit the side of the Vertical Stab closest to the tailpipe. Center/attach an appropriate servo horn now if desired.

- I chose to pot my servo, but you may also install two bolts straight down onto the frame if you choose.

The next step is to glue your Vertical Stabilizer onto the Fuselage.
This prototype required for me to add some extra material to the base of the Vertical Stab mount... the production model should have this extra area included, so this may or may not apply to later version of this model.

Once again, be sure to sand away the paint at the base of the Vertical Stabilzer Mount on the Fuselage to assure a good glue joint, then test-fit the Vertical Stab onto the Fuse and check for any warps or mis-alignment. When you're pleased with the fit, mix up some epoxy and glue the Vertical Stabilizer onto the Fuselage.

Next up is to hinge your Rudder and create your Rudder Control Linkage.
Again, you'll find your hinge lines pre-slotted. Carefully pre-fit your Rudder into place, and hinge it using the provided CA Hinges (Recommend a minimum of three), and be sure to allow plenty of travel, with freedom of rotation.
When you're done with that, make up your Rudder Control Linkage and secure it to your airframe. (I used the same technique for my Rudder Linkage as I did for the Elevator.)
Last edited by AceMigKiller; Nov 26, 2011 at 01:43 PM.
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Old Nov 26, 2011, 12:51 PM
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Fan Unit Assembly and Installation


The heart of this model is the specialized EDF System that powers it.
About a year and a half ago, HET re-designed their 9305 90mm fan into a monster powerhouse. After tweaking their Rotor design and Fan shroud, the 9305V2 Fan runs 39mm motors and can put out upwards of 10+lbs. of thrust.

The Super Sniper XL90 utilizes HET's 9305V2 fan, along with the custom designed Typhoon 700 series motors for 8s, 10s, or 12s operations. The exact setup I'm running in the prototype is the following:

Fan: HET 9305V2 90mm
Motor: HET Typhoon 700-68 1485kv
ESC: Castle Creations 110HV
Batteries: Hyperion 35c 4200mah 10s (one 6s and one 4s in series)

This setup generates right around 9lbs. of Thrust @ 3500 watts (pulls about 90-95 amps).

Take the time to inspect and build your fan unit with care. Use loctite on all threaded assemblies (except the motor mount bolts) and make sure everything is securely fastened. ALWAYS test run your fan before installing it in your model, and remember: Safety First!!!


HET has provided the necessary formers to provide a secure mounting structure for their fan, yet still allow access to it (you can remove the entire Fan Unit Assembly by simply taking out four bolts). Build up the Fan Mount Assembly using CA or Epoxy. If you use CA, use Medium to glue the structure together, then go over the seam lines with Thin.

After the glue dries, test fit the assembly into the airframe. I also drop the fan unit temporarily into place to make sure everything lines up. If you need to trim anything, now's the time to do it. Once you're ready, glue in the Fan Mount Assembly using Epoxy, and I strongly recommend some milled glass around the entire glue joint.

Once the glue dries, feel free to drop the fan in place. Make sure it slides into the molded recess on the Intake; this will provide as close to a seamless transition as possible from the Intake to the Fan Lip. When satisfied with the fit, mark and drill the four holes necessary for your mounting bolts.

Last step here is to make your Thrust Tube. You'll need to pop your fan in and out of the airframe while you do this, so don't sink all four bolts until you're done cutting and trimming your Thrust Tube for your Fan, Motor Wires, Length, etc.
Last edited by AceMigKiller; Nov 26, 2011 at 06:33 PM.
Old Nov 26, 2011, 01:15 PM
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Looks like the flap and aileron control slots are cut through the wings top skin.
I expect this is one issue you asked them to address on the production version.
Old Nov 26, 2011, 01:22 PM
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Correct.
Actually, the hinge on the Aileron provides perfect differential (w/ no additional mix) as is, so the Ailerons will remain hinged the same, but the Flaps will be top-hinged.
Old Nov 26, 2011, 01:27 PM
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The flaps are top hinged? Usually flaps are bottom hinged on a composite wing. Well at least the ones I have seen.

Quote:
Originally Posted by AceMigKiller View Post
Correct.
Actually, the hinge on the Aileron provides perfect differential (w/ no additional mix) as is, so the Ailerons will remain hinged the same, but the Flaps will be top-hinged.
Last edited by Tumbler; Nov 26, 2011 at 01:33 PM.
Old Nov 26, 2011, 01:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tumbler View Post
The flaps are top hinged? Usually flaps are bottom hinged on a composite wing. Well at least the ones I have seen.
Hey New Jersey! I thought you switched to delta's

--RW
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Old Nov 26, 2011, 02:08 PM
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Hey Robert! Actually, the only reason I decided to do a delta version of my plane, was because I saw the Sniper coming out. Rather than do another one of my planes with a traditional wing and tail, I'll just buy a Sniper.

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Hey New Jersey! I thought you switched to delta's

--RW
Old Nov 26, 2011, 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Tumbler View Post
Hey Robert! Actually, the only reason I decided to do a delta version of my plane, was because I saw the Sniper coming out. Rather than do another one of my planes with a traditional wing and tail, I'll just buy a Sniper.
Oh, did I forget to show you this version.

I'm glad to see your an epoxy master now. great work as always.

--RW
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Old Nov 26, 2011, 02:36 PM
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Oh snap.
Old Nov 26, 2011, 03:02 PM
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LOLOL....I see you spend as much time using the Paint program as I do. Thanks man....I appreciate the compliment. The Sniper looks like a heck of a lot less work than mine.....so I am glad they decided to make it in a larger version.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Robert Wagoner View Post
Oh, did I forget to show you this version.

I'm glad to see your an epoxy master now. great work as always.

--RW
Old Nov 26, 2011, 03:06 PM
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LOL!!!
That's pretty hilarious

If you guys have any questions on the Sniper, or want any extra pictures, let me know!
I'll be working this build thread on/off today and tomorrow, but it's not chiseled in stone.

Cheers,
Vic
Old Nov 26, 2011, 04:18 PM
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The hole in the side of the rudder for the servo arm is pretty big, is this being adjusted? It looks like the factory cut it then you had to increase the height? Obviously as small a slot as possible would be most desirable from an asthetic point of view
Old Nov 26, 2011, 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Extreme_RC View Post
The hole in the side of the rudder for the servo arm is pretty big, is this being adjusted? It looks like the factory cut it then you had to increase the height? Obviously as small a slot as possible would be most desirable from an asthetic point of view
Besides a little smaller cut out, servo covers will clean that up along with other areas. (to be included)

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Old Nov 26, 2011, 04:36 PM
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Are those the linkages supplied in the kit?
Old Nov 26, 2011, 05:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Extreme_RC View Post
The hole in the side of the rudder for the servo arm is pretty big, is this being adjusted?
NOPE!!!
The hole in the side is the correct size. A servo cover goes over it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by scatsob View Post
Are those the linkages supplied in the kit?
Probably.
Mine came with the threaded rods and ball links, but I wrapped'em in carbon for added strength.

Vic


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