Lumenier RB2205C-12 2400KV SKITZO Ceramic Bearing Motor
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Old Nov 09, 2011, 09:35 AM
mtflyr is offline
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Start of Micro Nieuport 17


After finishing up my FZ Albatros over in the Micro RTF forum I'm finally getting around to starting a Micro PZ sized, 14" WS Paper plan to 2 &1 mm Depron Nieuport 17.

I'm going to do mine in Mark Millers great Nieuport 17 illustration N-2614, Red 4, "Les Cigognes" (The Storks) scheme. I'll be using the PZ AR6400 brick if I do ailerons and P-51 motor gearbox.
Last edited by mtflyr; Nov 10, 2011 at 03:44 PM.
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Old Nov 09, 2011, 10:03 AM
billyjim is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtflyr View Post
After finishing up my FZ Albatros over in the Micro RTF forum I'm finally getting around to starting a Micro PZ sized, 14" WS Paper plan to 2 &1 mm Depron Nieuport 17.

I'm going to do mine in Mark Millers great Nieuport 17 illustration N-2614, Red 4 scheme. I'll be using the PZ AR6400 brick if I do ailerons and P-51 motor gearbox.
Great project ..... go for it!!

Bill
Old Nov 09, 2011, 10:05 AM
Faethor is offline
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Did you print the plans directly on your depron? If so, why not print the colour scheme on too?

Jay
Old Nov 09, 2011, 10:35 AM
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Thanks Billy.

No Jay, I enlarged the paper plan to a 14" WS then trace the cut out parts on to the 2 & 1 mm Depron with an Ultra Fine Point Sharpie. Though it could be done.

Mark Millers drawings have shadows in etc that wouldn't work besides I do like to airbrush on the colors and make my own decals.

Pete
Old Nov 09, 2011, 01:29 PM
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-=BS=-
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so will this be your build log here?
I'd like to follow and maybe make one too.
Please dont spare any details!
Old Nov 09, 2011, 03:41 PM
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Yes BS here's where I'll be posting on the build.

I cut out out some of the traced parts and test fit taped them together.
I needed to adjust the front cockpit top pattern cut off about 2mm on each side due to the 2mm thickness of the depron. Also found a nice paper LeRohne motor front for inside the cowl.

I don't like the Depron cowling and think I'll make a mold and vac form one. I think a good cowling on this bird is key.

I thinking on using a PZ servo for the ailerons placed far forward as that will give me additional nose weight since the nose area is so short I think I'll need all weight close to the front to get the CG.

I will redo the bottom wing as a one piece both wings will have a small CF rod as well for additional strength. All LE & TE's will be tappered.

Pete
Old Nov 09, 2011, 10:34 PM
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No dear, That isn't New!
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another amazing build. this will be good!! watching. Jim
Old Nov 10, 2011, 01:47 AM
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Thanks Jim, I hope to make some new castings and get them out to you.

I shaped the cowling mold from blue foam. I'll cover it with 5 min epoxy then use it to vac form a styrene one.

I made some sanded clear plastic wing struts I will change them to 1/32 ply, I just wanted to see how it would go together I may adhear the plastic to the ply for added strength.

I used sand paper around a marker to make groves on the tops of both wings and sanded all LE & TE's

It's starting to look the part. If I can get the CG without adding the extra PZ aileron servo I'll skip the ailerons as I want to get this bird done doing the ailerons right will take time.

Pete
Last edited by mtflyr; Nov 10, 2011 at 08:09 AM.
Old Nov 10, 2011, 05:57 AM
methuso is offline
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A.K.A sir Crashalot
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Yes. Get her done..... then send her to me
Awsome build. Just awsome. My opinion on the Ailerons is keep em out, i think these birds fly much nicer when the pilot do not have access to Ailerons. (Thou I feel handicapped without them too)

I wonder if they sell time as LHS. I need loads of it. I want to build these little gems too *almost crying*

Keep up the good work.

/Ulf
Old Nov 10, 2011, 06:01 AM
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Dumb question, how do you draw on depron (by hand ?) and where do you get the map ? I'm mostly curious to see how to get a flat draw from a volume (the fuse).
Old Nov 10, 2011, 08:04 AM
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Thanks Methuso...

I only wanted to do the ailerons in this bird because of the way they are in the top wing with the cut outs and control horns sticking out it would require some tinkering using the PZ aileron.


Camboui,

I'm using enlarged paper model plans and as I wrote I use a Utra Fine Sharpie Permanent Marker to make all panel lines etc. I do this by tracing over the paper template with a ball point pen. It will dent the foam enough to see then use the Sharpie. I also use wax paper to trace needed lines as you can flip it and see through it. You do the lines before bending the foam. I also use clear packing tape on most builds before bending the foam that keeps it from cracking, I then remove it that usually requires doing the lines again and I may or may not need to do them again after painting depending on how much of the lines I want. It's pretty easy it just takes time.

I've done tons of how to's in this forum and over in the War Birds and Micro Jet forums just do a search for mtflyr. I think when I built my Micro Spitfire, P-47, Mosquito FB and Micro P-38's I posted all the how to's you would need to see how it's done.

Just do a Google search for paper model Nieuport or whatever plane you want and you should be able to find the plans. I'll post the ones that I used. They are good some are too detailed and do not make good conversions others are too simple and also don't convert well. I always do a sized up paper mock up first to see where problems might be to make any needed changes. I also do some research to add or change panel lines to be more scale. Lots of paper plans are off on proper panel lines etc. WWI birds are relatively easy WWII are a little harder. It depends on the plane. I shop around to find the best plan.

Pete
Last edited by mtflyr; Nov 10, 2011 at 08:18 AM.
Old Nov 10, 2011, 08:18 AM
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Thanks Methuso...

I only wanted to do the ailerons in this bird because of the way they are in the top wing with the cut outs and control horns sticking out it would require some tinkering using the PZ aileron.


Camboui,

I'm using enlarged paper model plans and as I wrote I use a Utra Fine Sharpie Permanent Marker to make all panel lines etc. I do this by tracing over the paper template with a ball point pen. It will dent the foam enough to see then use the Sharpie. I also use wax paper to trace needed lines as you can flip it and see through it. You do the lines before bending the foam. I also use clear packing tape on most builds before bending the foam that keeps it from cracking, I then remove it that usually requires doing the lines again and I may or may not need to do them again after painting depending on how much of the lines I want. It's pretty easy it just takes time.

I've done tons of how to's in this forum and over in the War Birds and Micro Jet forums just do a search for mtflyr. I think when I built my Micro Spitfire, P-47, Mosquito FB and Micro P-38's I posted all the how to's you would need to see how it's done.

Pete
Old Nov 10, 2011, 08:48 AM
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A-ha! I remember your P-38's, amazing finishing skills! I'm generally happy when something I build flies generally the way I expect, I've never put a lot of time in to the fine detailing - and my fine vision fades with each year. I did pick up a couple of airbrushes and propellant cans to play with during the long cold building season.

Jay
Old Nov 10, 2011, 10:02 AM
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Thanks mtflyr-Pete.

Lots of reads for the coming days.
Old Nov 10, 2011, 02:55 PM
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Tha paper model plan I'm using is the 1:32 (enlarged to 135%, 14.5" WS) Digital Card Models plan drawings by Gabriel Panait.

Pete


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