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Its you guys that really throw them around that get higher peak current draws... But I take your point... and will be fitting stronger packs to my hex. |
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I see the numbers and read the charts, but two things stick in my mind...I had some 4000mah TP cells that puffed with little to no load and those bastards at Thunder Power treated me like an ignoramus when I described the setting, times, equipment, loads, etc. These idiots blamed it completely on me, regardless of the data (which insinuates that I was/am a liar or idiot or both) and replaced one of the batteries with no warranty. It puffed like the others. Funny, other brands at the time (same current and voltage specs) worked fine in the same setting and had no issues.
Maybe TP provides a better product today (regardless of the so-called warranty) but I won one recently in an auction at a fly-in (4S Extreme V2 2200mah) and it puffed just sitting around for a week or two. I know that I'm far from alone in my feelings about Thunder Power, and as it turned out those particular batteries (4000mah) had a history of problems. Next time I go to Vegas I need to stop in and say hello to those jerks. I thought the Nano-techs were OK until I found that comparing performance data on different motors revealed, in addition, that the nano are NOT supplying the advertised power; this with 4 relatively new, lightly used, and in perfect condition 2S and 3S 5300 and 5000 mah (35-70C discharge) respective batteries. I'm not a battery expert, but I do know something about them and power calcs and the rest of it and I won't buy these again. No puffs yet, but rather sub-par as per advertised performance. I'm beginning to suspect that one must spend the money to get good batteries or be a "name" using them so the company won't look bad. Also, keeping in mind that no matter how "good" a product may be, the way that a company deals with problems is just important. Now, what do I order next in the way of batteries??????? It seems like you roll the dice and hope that something good comes up. I still have some batteries (without balance plugs) that I bought 5 years ago that work great. WT-? -bob |
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Last edited by bobthenuke; Nov 25, 2012 at 09:13 PM.
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Q: "I was wondering how much current can Naza output through the gimbal stabilization -channels?" A: "Naza VU output is 3A , 5V. Do not go over it." Answer came from DJI. |
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Will the NAZA work with a Stock Turnigy Plush 30a esc with all 3 wires connected or do I just need the Signal wire (white) connected and than disconnect the Red and Black? WIll it work with all THREE wires connected so I don't have to remove the wires? Also I have heard these ESC's may or may not work as stock and need to be re-flashed, is this true or not?
Thanks. |
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@shdwkeeper.
well, just reed the manual..as you have a sep. NAZA BEC which monitors the voltage, it is not a smart moove to leave the bec of your escs working. so you have to remove the plus cable!do not know if it is red or orange.. i recommend dji optos.., i know, you guys loove the cheapo turnigy stuff, but dji is almost unbeatable performancewise.. www.mamo-models.com |
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just pull the red (centre) wire.
Mine didnt like it when I pulled all the grounds... |
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dji optos ROCK! the price is CHEAP for the ease of use and preformance you recieve!
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aswedhtrh
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ESC ratings and Graupner props
We recently had a discussion here on ESC ratings, so I thought I'd share the results of some testing I did today.
I'm flying an F550 with Torxpower 2216 900 Kv motors on 3S 5800 Turnigy 'blue' cells (not Nano-Tech). AUW is 2.1 kg (with gimbal, camera, vtx, landing gear, and dome). Currently I'm using Graupner 10x5 E props, but I've got some 11x5s (with 5mm removed from each blade tip to fit the F550) to try. I wanted to find out the current prop rpm and amps in the hover, to compare against when I fitted the 11x5s. So ... hover current shows around 25A. Out of interest I did some full throttle climbs and pullups and the highest reading I could get was 49-50A (of course the Naza restricts power to give a maximum climb rate of 6 metres/second). I know my telemetry over-reads by about 6% on current, so corrected those would be around 24A hover and 48A peak. Max current is therefore 8A per motor ... which confirms the 18A ESCs I have are more than big enough. On the batteries, the peak current draw works out at 8.3C ... which is pretty comfortable for a 25C continuous / 30C burst pack Now the really interesting bit When I tach'd the props to get hover RPM I found that the motors with "L" props (2, 4, and 6 on the Naza) were turning at approx. 5,500 rpm ... but the others were turning at around 6,200 rpm! Now the torque must be matched or the F550 would have been spinning on the spot, therefore the left and right-rotating versions must have slightly different pitches Will be interesting to see what the results from the 11x5s are (I still need to balance those before fitting them). |
Latest blog entry: Eachine QX65 FPV quad review
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Bill,
Interesting numbers, and thanks for that data. I think I'm confused about the difference between T and R props RPMs...perhaps the molds are a bit off. I don't have a tach but I think I'll get one and check that on my own machines. I have an attached snip of an Email I sent to a buddy as we've been trying out different motors and batteries. Sorry it's so small, but if you double click it's quite readable (I think!). It was a motor comparison but also shows the condition of my nano-tech battery which has been discussed previously. One thing I missed, that I'm sorry for now, was the current readings at hover. I'm sure they would've fallen in line with the high and low readings relative to each motor type. -bob |
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