NEW Twisted Hobbys/ParkAero RC Factory 31" Sbach 342
Here we have the NEW RC Factory 31" Sbach 342 from ParkAero and Twisted Hobbys
I've been lacking enthusiasm to play lately, what with rubbish weather and her ladyship wanting to spend 'quality' time together so haven't really felt the urge to say I WANT ONE!!
However things changed this week when doing the rounds on the internet, I checked out ParkAero and saw this little beauty hidden among the rather impressive range of models available on the site. A quick call to Mark soon saw one winging it's way to my front door, greeted by a rather annoyed woman....bye bye quality time! so here goes....
Now in all the excitement i did'nt get a snap of the airframe in bits I have got a pic of the power package though!!
The power set is the 'SICK' set and was also supplied by ParkAero and includes;
Xseries 2204 brushless motor w/ integrated prop saver, two aluminium prop hub adaptors, ‘O’ rings and mounting screws.
Sunrise Models 10A-Pro 10 Amp brushless speed controller (ESC)
Tuff 8 x 4.3 Slow Fly propeller
2x TowerPro SG51R 6g servos
1x TowerPro SG91R 9g servo
You will Need;
CA (not foam safe)
kicker if you like
1-1.5mm drill peice
small phillips(crosshead) screw driver
long nose pliers for the clips.
The OrangeRX R410 DSM2 4 channel receiver is compatible with all Spektrum/JR DSM2
25C 450mAh 2S 7.4V Li-PO Battery
Remove the inner tab that covers the exit of the spar slot.
This allows the spruce to insert fully. Once happy with the fit, add some CA. I chose to do half at a time to stop mess.
repeat this process on the other wing panel
Dri-fit the 'BackBone', again once happy apply CA
The Front section is fitted in the same manner
Note; the tabs found throughout this model used for aligning sections is a superb idea and many other manufactures would benefit from this.
Dri-Fit the horizontal stab, happy? CA
It should look like this!
Next up the elevator servo. Place in position and lightly mark the area you need to cut away, remember cutting inside this line withh provide a snug fit.
I ahve trimmed off the servo mounting lugs.
Follow the same procedure for the aileron servo. The bottom of the case does not sit flush the with top of the 'back bone'
Now Dri-fit the lower fuselage section and mark the areas you need to removed to accomodate the protruding servo. Now whip out the CA again and get it in there!!
Take the two smaller carbon rods and drop CA onto one end and hold a 'Z-Bend' in place till the glue dries. Once it has slide some heatshrink up and over the carbon and rod and shrink in place. If you do not cover the entire rod and shrink then re do the shrink tubing, partially covered is not satisfactory.
Among the ply sheet you get is a very tidy little CNC machined servo extension arm, either CA or screw mount this onto your existing smaller plastic servo arm.
Attach the Z bends and clip onto the servo.
Now CA your control horns in the pre-cut slots on each aileron. To get a smooth fit you may need to trim some of the bottom of horn to make shallower.
slide an 'Eazi/Kwik Lock' connector on to carbon rod and push through the horn, hold it place with the black clips provided.
You now need to CA the black supports to the lower section of the fuselage. they run at a 45 degree angle from the BACK of the aileron servo, down the fuselage
Slot in the rudder servo, marking and trimming where needed.
Now fit the upper section of the fuselage, marking the areas again for the servo's.
Fit the control horn into the elevator using the same emthod as the aileron horn if needed.
CA the rudder to the fuselage
insert the control horn, apply CA
Supplied in the Ply CNC Pack is some tiny push rod guides, they fit into the pre-made holes across the airframe on both sides for the rudder and elevator.
Using the same 'Z Bend' procedure as earlier on take the two larger push rods and clip into the rudder and elevator servo arms. Thread through the push rod guides and into some 'Eazi/Kwik Loks'
which in turn get clipped into the control horns on the relevant surfaces.
Take the two SFG's and gently cut in half.
CA 1 half into the bottom of the wing
repeat for the other.
Take the motor mount, douuble check your motor lines up with the existing holes. If it does not then make new holes using a 1-1.5mm drill piece.
If the current holes are correct then CA away!
fit your motor but don't overtighten the screws as you will open the GRP mount up to much and have a sloppy motor hanging off the front!!
Now all thats left is to make a small and snug hole slow for the rx to sit and the battery.
test the position of your battery first to check it's right for your chosen CofG
Add your ESC and your done!!
I will have a video of her flying shortly, just waiting for the rain to clear up and i can go play, well providing I don't get slaughtered for ignoring the better half for the few hours is took to build this!!
All Up weight is around the 170g mark and the 'SICK' package seems to be exactly that!! even though im still holding it!
Hope this helps you all feel free to ask any questions.
Last edited by Greengiant; Nov 06, 2011 at 11:57 AM.
Congrats Jamie, it looks like you are new to RcGroups as well so welcome!
Nice job on your build, looks good. These new line of EPP planes from RCF are so awesome since they are so easy to build, tough as nails and fly amazing for their size. Just a note on the SFG's they do not need to be cut in two pieces, only the center section is needed to be cut.
Here is some production photos and a video clip of the Sbach and the Edge
Our shipment should be arriving any day now and we can't wait!
This is going to be interesting, Jakeyboy got the Twisted power set for the Sbach. Good to compare to the Xseries we have on the Edge's, I know it's aimed more as an outdoor set up so throttle management will be key indoor and it will be interesting to see how the extra torque from the larger prop effects it.
Got quite a bit done tonight and as always did things slightly different again this time round. I did manage to snap one of the pins off an ez connector though
Roll on Saturday night
Still, I love the fact they are using connectors in these kits. In my view it is a big improvement over just using z-bends on both ends of a control rod.
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