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Nov 14, 2011, 01:21 AM
RC 4 Life
sparks's Avatar
Thread OP

wing servo.


This design has what I call a "lost servos" problem, that is to say the servos cannot be removed without damaging the plane. The thought here is that hatches cost weight and can always be installed if needed when a problem arises. Because of this, the aileron and elevator servos must be connected to the receiver and properly rigged to the control surfaces while we can. So, now is the time to rig the ailerons and elevator .
I suggest you use the receiver you plan to install for this step to avoid any centering surprises.
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Nov 14, 2011, 01:24 AM
RC 4 Life
sparks's Avatar
Thread OP

It's about time.


By now you know the polyurethane glue foams then hardens. For this step you must check the bond every 5 minutes or so to check for "foam blow outs" If the foam appears at the joint rub it down with a Q-tip or something round and soft before it hardens.
Do not turn your back on this bond. just when you think it is done it will make glue buds that are hard to remove.

Now is a good time to sit with the model and take your time trimming the cowl and it's openings.

Lay a pencil on the table and with the cowl flange on the table turn it with the pencil making a trim line on it's side.
Cut the flange off first then the trim line with scissors. When you cut the openings for the air inlet and the motor opening. Use a hobby knife and make several light cuts to avoid cutting too deep and slipping.
Slip the cowl in position and mark the cowl 1/2 inch from the bottom of the fuselage side sheeting.
remove the cowl and sand the inside above these two marks.
If you can, bond the cowl in place with its edge parallel with the back side of former F-1.
if it does not fit wait for the wing to fuselage bond to be complete then bevel the forward edge of former F-1 to match the cowl contour.
Nov 15, 2011, 06:14 PM
Registered User
JBinAZ's Avatar

spare time at work...


I was messing around at work today and think that I have my decal theme for the nose worked out. I threw a spinner in there and put it on a drab background just to get an idea of how they will look. I wish I knew anything about water slide decals, but I will probably end up printing to an adhesive backed media and just sticking them on. BTW, the tongue will only be hanging out of one side.
Nov 15, 2011, 11:41 PM
RC 4 Life
sparks's Avatar
Thread OP
Thanks for taking the time to draw and post the art work , very cool !
it was suggested to me that the tongue should be there more than once, after the fact.
a very good idea carried out . . thanks again.

The sticky backed media is how I did it but as a stencil and painted. A water slide decal would have to be applied to a compound curve on three surfaces. Cowl, foam and hatch.
Just not practical to me so I went with paint.
I'll detail it out when we get to the paint step.
There is no reason your drawing could not be applied the same way.
Nov 21, 2011, 11:46 AM
Home of "Golf Cart Flying"
pecanpatch's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by sparks
The sticky backed media is how I did it but as a stencil and painted. A water slide decal would have to be applied to a compound curve on three surfaces. Cowl, foam and hatch.
Just not practical to me so I went with paint.
I'll detail it out when we get to the paint step.
There is no reason your drawing could not be applied the same way.
I just ordered my P-40, I can only hope it turns out half as good as yours here...
Last edited by pecanpatch; Jan 05, 2012 at 08:38 AM.
Nov 21, 2011, 11:41 PM
RC 4 Life
sparks's Avatar
Thread OP

Must read.


I have learned from the Cartoon spitfire that a round belly pan can change its shape depending how well it fits the fuselage frame. When you add the flat portion of the wing the fit becomes more important for a good hatch fit.
So, we have to trim both parts to fit the model at the same time starting with the belly pan. I have trim lines lightly molded into the plastic parts but do not trust them completely. If you had to remove more material to fit the wing this line becomes unreliable.
Nov 21, 2011, 11:44 PM
RC 4 Life
sparks's Avatar
Thread OP

Bond the belly pan in place.


To bond the belly pan in place several test fits are needed.
The scribe lines should get you very close but to be on the safe side allow 1/8 inch extra for the first test fit.
Align the belly pan to the fuselage using the aft end of both parts.
(pan and frame)
As the plastic that touches the bottom of the wing gets trimmed. The belly pan gets closer to the fuselage formers.
Lay a pencil on its side on the bottom of the wing to mark the sides of the plastic and trim a little away until the belly pan fits the fuselage.

Temporally tape the pan in place and start fitting the hatch to the model.
the black sharpie line marks the step used for a flush hatch later.
Nov 21, 2011, 11:49 PM
RC 4 Life
sparks's Avatar
Thread OP

Hatch fit.


This hatch will give you access to the front bottom portion of the of the model, This is where the radio , ESC, and battery is mounted.
The front end of the hatch slides in-between the cowl and the F-1 former while the trailing edge is held in place with magnets.

Start with trimming off the flanges. . . .
The hatch is formed oversized to make up for any fitting ill regularities.
The plastic will be thin but is thicker at the edge when trimmed so give it a chance.
Start the trimming job at the step needed to clear the wing.
Align the front edge step, over the aft edge of the cowl and mark the point that the hatch meets the wing leading edge.
Cut a small portion away and test fit. Continue trimming until the hatch aft edge touches the front end of the belly pan and the front edge rests on the cowl.

Your last test fit should be made with the hatch front edge under the cowl trailing edge. To make installation easier the width forward of the formed step on the hatch should be about 1/2 inch with the corners rounded. If the gap between the cowl and F-1 is too tight adjust it by sliding a piece 180 sandpaper between the two and remove a bit of the former.
The last trim task is to cut the aft end of the hatch to match the formed step in the belly pan.
The black line can be seen easily through the plastic if it is back lit with a small flashlight under the hatch it can be seen much easier..
Nov 21, 2011, 11:51 PM
RC 4 Life
sparks's Avatar
Thread OP
Use the steps for the upper turtle deck to bond the belly pan in place.
Apply a bead of gorilla glue to the portion of the belly pan that touches the wing.
Install the hatch and tape it in place to hold the belly pan radius to match the hatch radius.
Any glue blowouts can be cleaned off with a playing card scraping it off the wing toward the plastic belly pan.
Nov 30, 2011, 11:26 AM
Home of "Golf Cart Flying"
pecanpatch's Avatar
I recieved my P-40 Kit and am very impressed with everything I recieved for the $$

I made one copy of the plans which Intend to cut the patterns from , leaving the other set to build from and refer too.

This project will be done at breaks and lunch at work... sometimes staying after work to glue something up to dry... It makes for a long build...
But My BD5 , Polaris, and Twins didnt seem to mind.

Is it ok to post pics of my progress here?

Regards,
Marko
Nov 30, 2011, 01:10 PM
RC 4 Life
sparks's Avatar
Thread OP
I'd love to see your progress so post away.
I might learn a trick or two along the way and any questions you might have can be answered here.
I tried to cover it all but I always seem to miss a thing or two.
Nov 30, 2011, 01:13 PM
can't dance..so let's fly.
JOE-TELLY's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by pecanpatch
I recieved my P-40 Kit and am very impressed with everything I recieved for the $$


Is it ok to post pics of my progress here?

Regards,
Marko
Pics would be waay cool.
Nov 30, 2011, 11:25 PM
RC 4 Life
sparks's Avatar
Thread OP

Time to complete the hatch


The hatch is strong enough to slide in on as is but I wanted additional cooling so I bonded 6mm wedges to the hatch at the cowl flaps and later cut holes in-between them. I don't think it needed it but I just can't pass up cooling flow.
To install a latch system we need some meat to bond the magnets to. so two strips of 6mm are bonded to the hatch inside , this also makes it a little stronger too.
Nov 30, 2011, 11:26 PM
RC 4 Life
sparks's Avatar
Thread OP
Install the hatch and mark it's edge on the wing , remove the hatch.

Just forward of the belly pan bore a hole equal to the diameter of the magnet just inside of where the hatch mark you made is.

Bond a magnet flush to the surface in the hole.

Mark the magnets position outside the hatch line mark .
install the hatch again, transfer the magnets position mark to the outside of the hatch.

Bore holes to match the marks in the 6mm strips and bond magnets in the hatch.
Nov 30, 2011, 11:30 PM
RC 4 Life
sparks's Avatar
Thread OP

Landing gear


I didn't do it but I did stage it so you can see how it is done.

Hold the wing up to a bright light and mark the wing so you can see where the gear plates are located. I used tape.

Bend the gear wire using the patterns on the plans , the axle should be even with the leading edge when the mount portion is flat against the wing.

Trace around the wire where it touches the wing and melt a slot in the wing down to the 6mm plate in-between the marks.

It's not hard at all, the glue layer between the foam layers slows down the melting considerably. See the Cartoon ME-109 for more photos if you are stuck.

The gear fairings will need the doors cut and opened.
The door hinge line was done by simply folding the plastic .

Continued on page 8 post 120
Last edited by sparks; Dec 22, 2011 at 12:58 AM.


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