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Oct 31, 2011, 11:27 PM
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sparks's Avatar
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Wing saddle.


lets mate the fuselage to the wing so we are ready for the other parts when they are done.
Place the fuselage on the wing and slide sandpaper rough side up in-between them and sand the edge of the fuselage sides for a perfect wing to fuselage fit.
After you are happy with the fit, center the wing and mark the center line on the bottom of the wing and formers for easy alignment later.
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Nov 01, 2011, 08:29 AM
Registered User
hi pumpe
thanks for the heads up about sparks book, went to sams website and found it, good call.
willhappy
Nov 04, 2011, 07:35 AM
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sparks's Avatar
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The stabilizer is real basic stuff. cut the pattern, cut the hinge line. Install hinges and add the cross over bar. The only real trick is using a heated wire to melt the foam so the wire bar can be epoxied in place.
using a lighter will make enough heat to heat the wire. A torch will make it too hot and make a larger groove than we need. practice on a piece of scrap , its not hard to get the hang of it.
Nov 05, 2011, 01:52 AM
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JBinAZ's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by sparks
In order to get the slight curve to the bottom of the wing a relief cut is made from the first spar to the leading edge at the wing root.
The leading edge shim is placed under the leading edge during the top sheeting bonding step to raise it higher making the curve needed.
Hey Sparks,
For the Leading Edge Shim, should the tall part of the shim taper be at the tip or the root when gluing up the top sheet? Thanks in advance!
Nov 05, 2011, 08:44 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by JBinAZ
Hey Sparks,
For the Leading Edge Shim, should the tall part of the shim taper be at the tip or the root when gluing up the top sheet? Thanks in advance!
The tall part of the shim goes toward the root.
Nov 07, 2011, 12:50 AM
RC 4 Life
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Thanks for answering the Q
yes, thick end toward the root because the wing is thicker there.
Sorry I've been MIA . When I can get in some flying time in I tend to kick the threads to the curb for a day or two. 6 hours at the field costs me 6 hours of getting behind on website orders.
I'm back on line now.
Nov 07, 2011, 12:55 AM
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To install the horizontal stabilizer a slot will have to be cut in the fuselage sides.

To prepare for the cut, support the model on a flat surface by the wing , two blocks of equal size under the center section front and back.
To set the incidence shim the aft end with a 3mm foam strip. and use a small weight to hold them there.
Measure the bottom edge of the plastic turtle deck to the work surface.
Cut a cardboard strip this width.

Use the cardstock to draw a line on both sides of the sheeting the length of the horizontal stabilizer.
draw another pair of lines 6mm below the marked lines.
Cut the slot with a razor and bond the stab in place making sure it is centered and 90 degrees to the centerline.
the stab should be level with the work surface.
Nov 07, 2011, 12:57 AM
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Install the elevator servo and run the push pull wire through the foam.
If you miss your intend route or the wire has a bow in it you can heat the wire with a soldering iron and it will melt the foam giving you a straight wire.
just don't get the iron too close to the foam parts

Slide plastic guide tubes over the wire and bond them to the formers for a smooth supported control rod.

I used a piece of circuit board material for a control horn but many modelers prefer using credit card material for the task.
Nov 08, 2011, 11:39 PM
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Thread OP

ailerons


locate the two 6mm strips in the wing by holding it up to a bright light. Mark the half way point between the two. While holding a hobby knife at a slight angle toward the trailing edge cut the ailerons free from the wing. Sand an equal angle into the ailerons bottom leading edge. This will allow the aileron to move downward after the hinges are in place. A small amount of sanding will be needed for the strip above the hinge line as well. The hinge line is easy to find, it is where the top sheeting and spar strip meets if you used a dark highlight pen during the sanding step it is easy to see.

Before you hinge the ailerons . . . .
Nov 08, 2011, 11:42 PM
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Bend music wire (.047) to make the aileron torque rods and don't forget to use a plastic tube bearing. A precise fit between the tube and wire is not necessary, it's primary job is to protect it from the glue used in the next step. Cut or melt a groove in the wing so the aileron torque assembly can be installed with the wire parallel to the hinge line. Tape the assembly in place and use epoxy to lock it in place. A scrap piece of foam sheeting is used to cover the installation. or you can fill the groove with epoxy
Now you can hinge the ailerons.
Nov 09, 2011, 01:29 PM
Registered User
Hi Keith,
I may have missed it on the plans, but what thickness is the stab? 6mm?
also what are 'fiber hinges'? are they CA hinges?
also, can you post the incidence values for those who use a meter vs. a shim.

thanks.
cartoon cub please
Nov 10, 2011, 03:30 AM
Up-Out-&-Gone
demondriver's Avatar
Excellent work Sparks! What better than a cartoon P-40!
Nov 13, 2011, 10:40 PM
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JBinAZ's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by sparks
lets mate the fuselage to the wing so we are ready for the other parts when they are done.
Place the fuselage on the wing and slide sandpaper rough side up in-between them and sand the edge of the fuselage sides for a perfect wing to fuselage fit.
After you are happy with the fit, center the wing and mark the center line on the bottom of the wing and formers for easy alignment later.
Hey Sparks,

When mating the fuse with the wing should the center flat part of the bottom of the wing be parallel to the cockpit floor? I am guessing yes, but wanted to make sure before I do too much sanding to the fuse sides to match up to the wing root. I am probably going slower than most and jumping around a bit from the steps you are following as I only have a few hours every couple of nights to work on her. So far I am about ready to glue up the top plastics and the wing is ready for ailerons to be cut, but wanted to make sure that my wing is going to fit properly before I go any further in case I need to re-make any of the foam parts prior to gluing any of the vac formed parts on.
Eagerly watching your build! Thanks!
Last edited by JBinAZ; Nov 14, 2011 at 10:15 AM. Reason: ...
Nov 14, 2011, 01:17 AM
RC 4 Life
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Thread OP
Don't get too caught up in the cockpit floor angle but yes it should be close to level.
The wing saddle fit should be very close as is with only a little adjusting needed but be careful that you don't remove too much material because it effects the belly pan placement.
You have about 1/4 inch to play with which is way more than enough for the belly pan to work out.
Nov 14, 2011, 01:20 AM
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Thread OP
To connect your aileron servo to the torque arms I like to make my own hardware with aluminum tubing because it's easy and very cheap. I smash the tube then drill a small hole in the flat spot.
The length is based on the servo arm length so I compare it to the installed servo.
I sand the steel wire to remove the anti rust coating and put CA adhesive or epoxy in the tube and slide it over the steel. Be sure to let it set up all the way and hold it upside-down to keep it in the tube while it does.


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