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Oct 29, 2011, 09:22 AM
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JBinAZ's Avatar
Hey Sparks, watching eagerly!
I finally I got all my parts cut out. I mounted my plans on some .030 styrene that I had laying around. It made trimming the formers pretty easy with a little help from a quick shot of super 77. I kept the templates mounted and made sure that all my cuts were 90's, any that needed attention were easily take care of with a fine grit sanding sponge. I put the pilot together when I needed a break from concentration. I thought that it would give me some insight when it comes to working with the rest of the plastic. I cant wait to get these parts together.
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Oct 29, 2011, 02:35 PM
"Use the foam, Luke!"
SpaceDrydock-22's Avatar

Next cartoon warbird?

I love these cartoon planes and Sparks building threads are very nice and well made.

But what will be the next cartoon warbird built by Sparks?
Perhaps Brewster Buffalo?

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Oct 29, 2011, 10:28 PM
RC 4 Life
sparks's Avatar
Thread OP
the wing
This wing construction method uses no ribs, as a weight saving measure the wing has several tapered spars that give it strength and the airfoil shape we need. The wing is built from the bottom sheeting up by using the pattern from the plans to lay out a 3mm sheet. The spar locations are transferred from the pattern to the sheeting with a pen and straight edge .
Note that the pattern has holes pierced through the spar locations to make marks through. his makes the layout work simple. when one wing panel is marked you simply flip the pattern and mark the other side. Way cool.
The spars are bonded with polyurethane glue to the bottom sheeting using weights for clamp pressure. It is best to stack two sheets of 6mm while cutting the spars so each spar is identical. Also, the spars are longer than needed, this is to simplify cutting them from the 6mm sheet. They are bonded with the widest end at the wing root.
wrapping a bit of the 6mm strip around the tip will help when the top sheeting is bonded in place but not totally necessary.
Oct 29, 2011, 10:35 PM
RC 4 Life
sparks's Avatar
Thread OP
The tops of the spars are square and will require light sanding to give them a curve so the top sheeting will not have humps on the surface. Using a sanding bar wide enough to bridge between the spars will help to ensure the angles blend between them. Sand diagonally not front to back because you will damage the spar bond. Work slowly and let the sandpaper do the work, 120 grit paper will be enough and get you done before you know it. Also sanding with the trailing edge right at the table edge will give you the tapered edge for a good looking trailing edge.
Before you start sanding, mark the spars with a highlighter pen. this will help you keep track of your progress. Once you are finished sanding; place a strip of foam across the spars in several places and check for gaps or humps.
Oct 29, 2011, 10:40 PM
RC 4 Life
sparks's Avatar
Thread OP
The wing tip is sanded with your hand supporting the back and is done free hand. I wish had a cool trick for you to use but it is not that hard to taper the spar ends to the sheeting. Use the marker trick to track your progress and eyeball it frequently from the edge and you will see it's not hard at all.

OK so far?
Oct 30, 2011, 09:38 AM
Registered User
What are your weights made of? They look like they were made at home and poured into ice cube trays. I need some small weights like your and would like to know how you made them or where you got them.
Oct 30, 2011, 10:49 AM
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Xanadu's Avatar
Pretty nifty planes, look cool!
Oct 30, 2011, 11:11 PM
RC 4 Life
sparks's Avatar
Thread OP

The weights

I sanded a block of wood to the " ice cube" tray shape.
Coated it with wax and smothered it in High temp silicone.
(you can get a tube at the automotive store.)
I let it sit on a shelf for about a month and pealed the wood block out.
Melted lead and started making my weights.
Do some research on casting lead. It can be very dangerous if it is not done right.
Oct 31, 2011, 04:28 PM
Registered User
cbalgra's Avatar
Sparks, you are killin' me! These plane are way too fun.
I know you've seen the Blackheart Art website. So, what's it going to be next?
My request is for the following: Thank you in advance.
Oct 31, 2011, 07:40 PM
Registered User
the cartoon T-33 looks pretty good.
The P-40 is my favorite cartoon plane so far, I hope to be putting in an order soon, along with a few other items from Sparky.
Oct 31, 2011, 08:56 PM
Registered User
Got mine!

I possibly missed it on the plans..... But how thick is the stab? 3 or 6 mm?

Also can you show how to paint or decal the emblems please.
Thanks sparky!

Oct 31, 2011, 10:52 PM
RC 4 Life
sparks's Avatar
Thread OP
Really? are you there already I mean for the markings?
I know these little birds go together fast but gathering the materials should have bought me some time.
I thought I could keep the thread way ahead of you guys.
have the paint step documented but not written yet.
I'll post a PDF you can print as a pattern. You will need a mail label sheet, the full sheet sticky back kind from Office depot and an air brush.

All tail feathers are 6mm, I'll review the patterns and make sure they are marked.
Oct 31, 2011, 11:20 PM
RC 4 Life
sparks's Avatar
Thread OP

landing gear ?

If you plan to install landing gear, bond the gear plates in place. I have found that the Cartoon planes fly better without them though. I suppose the extra weight and drag holds them back a bit.
This was proven with the two Cartoon mustangs and when I busted the gear off of one of the Cartoon ME-109's.
I don't miss the wheels and I'm lousy at hand launching too. The thing is that when you are on a takeoff roll they tend to jump off the ground any way. No long dragged out take off rolls on a short coupled model. And the landing tends to tip them on their nose too.
so on this one . . .no gear for me.
Oct 31, 2011, 11:22 PM
RC 4 Life
sparks's Avatar
Thread OP
Cut the top sheeting using the pattern, add about 3/16 inch to the leading edge to allow for the curve of the wing.
To protect the work surface and to keep from bonding the wing to the table top; use packing tape strips along the edges of the wing. Apply glue to all the spars and the trailing edge. Bond the sheeting from the trailing edge forward applying small weights as you go. let the panels dry completely.
In order to get the slight curve to the bottom of the wing a relief cut is made from the first spar to the leading edge at the wing root.
The leading edge shim is placed under the leading edge during the top sheeting bonding step to raise it higher making the curve needed.
I messed up and didn't get shots of the sheeting while it was clamped up so I stole shots from another cartoon plane to show here.
if you don't have a bunch of little weights, flat stiff panels with heavy weights work to hold the edges down too.
Oct 31, 2011, 11:25 PM
RC 4 Life
sparks's Avatar
Thread OP
Trim the spars at the wing root with a razor then block sand the spars and the sheeting flush and 90 degrees to the bottom sheeting. Raise the wing tips 1 inch from the work surface and use small weights to hold the center section down.
Fit the spar joiners in-between the wing panel spars and bond them in place.
To fit the spar joiners; cut the width first, slide it in place, mark the point where the bottom of the top sheeting meets the spar joiner on both sides the cut between the marks.
After the joiners have dried; Repeat the steps used to bond the top sheeting for the top sheeting of the center section.

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