Radio board set up. Question, will I get into some sort of problem if both the rudder and sail servo are put on the same board? Most of the pictures of rudder servos show them mounted by themselves.

Ron

Ron,

I have had the 2 servo's close on another sailboat and had no problem.

Ed

Both servos on one board is actually a better setup for servicing. If you make the servo board removable with two screws, then everything comes out at once.
Some guys mount their steering servos separate near the rudder post to reduce the linkage lenght, which gives arguably better response. With a carbon fiber rudder servo linkage, this advantage is greatly reduced if not eliminated. Plus, putting more weight towards the ends of a boat is not conducive to speed(doesn't really matter in a Canterbury, but it does in more hi-tech boats)

Originally Posted by SKIPPER RON

Radio board set up. Question, will I get into some sort of problem if both the rudder and sail servo are put on the same board? Most of the pictures of rudder servos show them mounted by themselves.

Ron:

It's done as stock on the Infinity-54's. The class started in the 80's and I have not seen any reports of problems. I am using digital servos with no issues.

As you can see, everything is on one board that is held by two nuts on bolts that are epoxied into the stringers. It takes all of 30 seconds to remove the board with the servos and Rx attached.

FC

Originally Posted by FoamCrusher

Ron:

It's done as stock on the Infinity-54's. The class started in the 80's and I have not seen any reports of problems. I am using digital servos with no issues.

As you can see, everything is on one board that is held by two nuts on bolts that are epoxied into the stringers. It takes all of 30 seconds to remove the board with the servos and Rx attached.

FC

Foam-Crusher, What servo are you using for the sail control?

Just a quick question before I order a Hitec 815. Is there a better sail servo that is being used as an arm control rather than a drum?

Originally Posted by seefest

Foam-Crusher, What servo are you using for the sail control?

Seefest:

See photos below. Got to warn you, however. Digital servos are NOT cheap and they do not sip electrons...more like they drink from a fire hose, so plan your battery pack size accordingly. A two series pack of the large A123 cells or 3000 mAh 25C or better lipos would be a place to start depending how long you sail before changing packs and how strong the wind is.

FC

Ron,

I am using a Hi-Tec digital servo HS-7954SH for the swing arm on my Canterbury J. It has 333 oz-inches of torque on 6 volts. I have had no trouble with it being over powered. If you use Lipo batteries at 7.4 volts you can get 402 oz-inches of torque.

Ed

Good to hear about these servos. I have used HS7955's for sail servos in my US1M for years now with no issues.

The reason I was asking, is I am building a Star 45 and would like to put a 7950 in there for sail control. Should be plenty strong if it's used in an Infinity with no torque issues.

I only use digital servos where they count, for the sail servo. I use analog servos for rudder, jib trim and backstay's. The 7955 has not been bad as far as power consumption in my US1M's. I run 3 hours on a 750 Mah NiMH batteries before changing batteries, even in breeze.

One last note....with smaller boats with smaller sails you can use just an eye-bolt at the end of the servo arm, but when you get to larger sails and these high-torque servos the friction on the eye gets very high so you must use ball bearing blocks or the sheet will bind. The single Pekabe blocks work fine for this.

Originally Posted by FoamCrusher

One last note....with smaller boats with smaller sails you can use just an eye-bolt at the end of the servo arm, but when you get to larger sails and these high-torque servos the friction on the eye gets very high so you must use ball bearing blocks or the sheet will bind. The single Pekabe blocks work fine for this.

I use ball bearing blocks on all my boats from my CR 914 to my Newport 12.

Increases the efficiency of the system in all size yachts.

Too bad Pekabe blocks are getting harder to find, and eventually will probably be no more. I just tried looking for a Pekabe thru deck block with no sucess. Last time I bought them from Australia......pretty ironic, when I live less than two hours south of the Pekabe manufacturer.

Hale blocks are nice, but their thru deck blocks tend to jam with the small spectra line I use on my smaller yachts.

Here's a question for you Canterbury J builders:

From what I can see, the hull sides are lower than the deck at the center line. This creates the camber of the deck. It appears that the "drop" to the hull side is at it's max at approx. the middle of the hull & tapers to zero at the bow & stern. If this is correct, how big is the "drop"?

I ask this because I'm building a 36" version(thread is also on this forum) & I would assume that my "drop" would be 75% of what your 48" version is.

Thanks for any & all replies!!

Erle

werlec,

I measured my Canterbury J at the front of the hatch. From the center of the deck to to the outside of the deck it drops 7/16th of an inch.

Ed

Thanks Ed, thats just what I needed -- so 7/16" should be 11/64" on my 36" one @75%.

BTW the picture in post #5 of your #529 build thread is where I got the profile for mine

Thanks again,

Erle

I am new to this site but wanted to note that I am presently building hull 541 and hope to get some pictures up soon. Winter setting in here so will finish for a Spring launch. Have completed planking deck (first ever) and that was interesting. Currently working on the rigging. Really like the lines on this boat and look forward to sailing.

Regards,

Tuscan1