Jake, Robo and Whichway, thanks! Have flown outdoors now and it is absolutely true that it's a joy out in the wide-open. Too bad about the 3-4 min flights, but I think a 240 may be in the picture soon. I still have a LOT of expo dialed in, but the mix I had set up for rudder/elevator is turned off now and not missed. Have tried trick with 2 clicks of rudder trim for rate holding...it SEEMS to do something, but I'm not sure exactly what. Also, it's like going outside blew the cooties off the thing; now it flies nicely indoors too.

Originally Posted by RoboHeli

Thought about that but it's a little wonky with blades that can pivot. Daryoon's idea of holding it by the shaft might work as well.

I'm intending for my tail mod to ultimately grow in to a full-on brushless conversion eventually complete with mCPX skids and batteries so I'm not going to sweat it. It'll all come eventually.

I'm going to really try hard to find a time when I can go flying outdoors with them before the snow comes...

I don't think COG matters with the AS3X. On my MQX, I use Nano-Tech 600 mah and they are 1/4" longer and she still flys level and true.

Hey everyone,

I'm new to this game and am having a blast trying to fly (I mean crashing) my (now damaged) mSRx. Well, after 2 broken skids in 2 days, I heard about the AirTime skids and made an inquiry. Rich seems like a great guy and sent me pics of the new Lo Pro version for the Nano/MSR/mSRx. He is still working out the last bugs to fit around the post flanges, but should be ready soon. I can't wait to get them. Hopefully these pics will upload properly.

Btw, this is my first heli and I can see why the guy at LHS was steering me away from it. I'm starting to get the hang of it, however, and it's pretty cool! I am just using the basic tx that came with the RTF. I was wondering how much it would help to upgrade to a better programmable tx? Any thoughts for a newbie?

This was interesting...had a minor crash...didn't seem to break anything....wouldn't fly right...kept drifting either left or right with no input from me....what the heck..was flying so stable...

Took it all apart...found that the swash arm going to the aileron rod, was broken at the swash and would move up and down not giving correct movements......went to the LHS and got two new swashplates...installed the new one and it flys really great again....if you eratic side to side moving, check that swash arm.....!!!!!!

Sent from my 32gb Etch-A-Sketch!

Daryoon and I were just talking about Blades wimpy swash plates last night. And you had another one! Blade should take note. This has been a common complaint.

I've been looking for an 32GB Etch-A-Sketch. Where did you get yours?

Originally Posted by Heli Pad

Daryoon and I were just talking about Blades wimpy swash plates last night. And you had another one! Blade should take note. This has been a common complaint.

I've been looking for an 32GB Etch-A-Sketch. Where did you get yours?

Dr. Brown helped me make mine....


The nano also has those nasty rubbery swashplate arms......

Originally Posted by HelisRCool

I was wondering how much it would help to upgrade to a better programmable tx? Any thoughts for a newbie?

I am relatively new to all this as well but I could barely fly my msrx with the stock controller and it handles like a dream with the DX6i. I could keep it from hitting trees before ( only an outside bird before ) and now I can fly around the house no problem. With the right settings it is crazy how much of a difference a programmable controller makes.
ps I sold the idea to the wife by saying I could buy all bnf now and save money

What settings are you using?

Originally Posted by Jake8131

What settings are you using?

http://ganninger.de/DX6i-mSRX.pdf
someone posted this link on here or helifreak. I am starting to think they are too tame which is ridiculous considering I could hardly fly the thing before

what does everyone think the next logical step is from an msr x/mqx if you have a DX6i (which means I don't want anything not compatible). I love being able to fly in the backyard but have heard that the bigger cp helis are easier to fly than the mcpx and nano.

I hear you about the rubbery swash.

When I installed my RakonHeli CNC swash, it really seemed to make the heli smoother and more responsive. Might have been just me, but I did the FULL conversion including head, blade grips, swash, and collar. A bit pricy, but it really helps IMHO.

I know that this has been described a hundred times on the forum but I just don't seem to get it. If I rudder right it yaws right and forward. If I rudder left it goes backwards and crazy. How do I know which way to adjust my servo rods if it reacts differently to each rudder input. Also if I use rudder trim I get crazy tbe. I have been dealing with it for a while but I keep seeing people talk about how great it flies with rudder input with a proper mmm and I want to get there too.
PS I have lost track of how many turns each direction I have gone so the 3 turns on one and one turn on the other isn't as helpful as it would have been before I started.

Originally Posted by Greg Head

I know that this has been described a hundred times on the forum but I just don't seem to get it. If I rudder right it yaws right and forward. If I rudder left it goes backwards and crazy. How do I know which way to adjust my servo rods if it reacts differently to each rudder input. Also if I use rudder trim I get crazy tbe. I have been dealing with it for a while but I keep seeing people talk about how great it flies with rudder input with a proper mmm and I want to get there too.
PS I have lost track of how many turns each direction I have gone so the 3 turns on one and one turn on the other isn't as helpful as it would have been before I started.

What transmitter are you using. If it is a dx6i, use the settup...

I use those settings, I even posted a link to them a few posts ago The problem is that my swash plate is not correctly adjusted and with the as3x I don't quite get how to know which way to adjust. Hovering the thing is perfect, in fact it is great until you touch the rudder (I have read most if not all pages of this thread so I am not trying to open old wounds). I get that the swash levels at rudder input but what I don't get is how you adjust the swash links to compensate when the heli does different things for right and left rudder. Which one (left or right rudder) do I dial in and does it make the other one that much worse? I can fly it as is but I want to get it right if possible to make those turns easier.

Hey Greg,

AFAIK, the MMM cannot and will not make this heli able to fly like a coax where you can hover and then use the rudder to yaw back and forth.

When flying the heli is a little tilted to the side. If you look straight on at it, it will not be perfectly straight up and down. From what I've read, this is an effect of the fact that the heli has a combination of forces acting on it from the tail rotor and the torque of the main rotor. When you yaw, you pivot the heli around its mainshaft but since that mainshaft is already tilted, you end up with the heli body pitched a different direction and that causes it to go in those different directions. (Yes, I know this is probably a gross oversimplification so if someone wants to expand on this please feel free!)

I've applied the MMM to my heli. However, when I fly, I am constantly and actively giving inputs to aileron and elevator while I'm using rudder. I just watch the pitch and have gotten used to applying some elevator and aileron as needed. I can do a slow piro to the left fairly well but my right piros are about a foot or two in diameter sometimes. So, just keep that in mind. You are going to have to constantly apply cyclic (elevator & aileron) corrections while you fly. So, while yawing one direction, you'll figure out which other commands to send. Then while yawing the other direction, you'll figure out a different set of commands to send.

My advice is to first get used to flying it around with NO rudder at all. Do not use trim on any of your channels. It's not needed or advised, from what I've read. Then, apply rudder VERY SLOWLY in one direction and pay attention to which way the heli leans. Then stop applying rudder ASAP and get it back under control with your no-rudder hovering skills that you've learned from the exercises that I mentioned in the first sentence. Then try again but give it some corrections on the elev and aile to compensate. Once you can get it to turn in one direction a little bit, increase the amount that you yaw and see if you can compensate. Always be ready to snap back to "zero yaw" mode. Then keep at it for greater yaw amounts. Then try the other side.

However, this heli is really hobbled indoors, IMHO. This is my outdoor dragster. All of my other flybarred micros are not much use when the wind picks up but this flybarless heli is loads of fun out there.