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I'll see if I can get mine doing it again, then fix it and I'll tell you what worked. Sorry for my non-technical answer!
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I appreciate that.
Letting it temperature adjust did not make one iota of difference. I then just went for broke and adjusted the elevator link as short it would possibly go. Now it seems to fly pretty well. In fact it flies so well that my attempts to put into the ground actually put it into the ground and now the canopy is completely destroyed... but the heli at least flies forward now. Letting off the cyclic will still stall it in the air immediately and have it gaining a couple feet, but only when letting off. I appreciate the help guys. I'll take it out tomorrow in an actual field and see how it does. |
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Here's a couple of links I found with some ideas. One mentioned the ball link slipping off...
http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=432195 https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show....php?t=1570244 |
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Also, go register an account at helifreak and post about your problems in that forum as well. There are a few really devoted MSRX fanatics over there that should be able to help you a lot more than I could...
http://www.helifreak.com/forumdisplay.php?f=284 Good luck!!! |
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On my heli, one of the ball links on the head was flexing causing this symptom.
The ball eventually broke off. This could also happen on the swash and as another poster has indicated, the link itself could be slipping. Also mentioned was the possibility that the link was not on the ball but had been pushed on too far and was resting on the ball shaft. |
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Last edited by Martyn McKinney; Sep 24, 2012 at 10:13 PM.
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Must be bad canopy week. I put my new one on and on my 3rd battery lightly nosed it in while trying out some new rate settings. Didn't even think about damage since it was such a light tap but cracked the nose on the brand new canopy. Going to try the black and red one next since the white seems to be cursed. Probably should pick up 2 since I know if I buy the extra one that the first one will last forever. If I only buy 1 I am sure I will destroy it on the first flight.
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Quote:
Although I actually like flying it in rate mode, your suggestion will make an interesting comparison using the same transmitter. |
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Last edited by Martyn McKinney; Sep 25, 2012 at 09:31 AM.
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It cracked one of the mounting holes right off. It's the hole near the antenna, so I don't want to risk breaking that little piece of thread off. I'm sure it'll be fine for indoors, but I ordered a new one for outside. I can't see breaking a canopy in grass. This one took two 40ft high full steam ahead crashes into pavement to really break. The aluminum grips are on order too and some msr blades. Has anyone tried uncut msr blades with the throttle turned down a bit? I thought it might be a softer and more battery friendly indoor setup.
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I think people have tried it...you might want to search a bit either on this (or the other msrx thread) or else on helifreak in the msrx section. I seem to remember reading something about that somewhere...
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Quote:
But (and this is the deal breaker)... The AS3X is programmed to manipulate stubby inefficient, blades. If you try to use 'more efficient' blades, the AS3X will over control them. What once needed large input corrections now only needs small input corrections. So when the heli gyros sense that something needs 'fixin' the AS3X will over correct, which then needs another correction, and the AS3X will over correct that too, and so on. The heli will fly like a bell that's been struck by a hammer. Every little disturbance will set it to wobbling back and forth as the AS3X over compensates. At best, the wobbles will get less and less with each over-correction until it stabilizes again. At worse, the over corrections will fed on each other until it just falls from the air in an uncontrollable mess. You can't adjust this. So while changing blades makes for a good experiment, and it's fun to watch the control logic in action, it really isn't flyable anymore. Cutting down the mSR blades makes them less efficient, and closer to the stock blades in behaviour. There's some wiggle room, so you can boost efficiency a little before you cross the point where the AS3X is out of it's comfort zone. But by the time you do that you don't get much bang for the buck. I would like to see a re-designed head (blade grips) which extended balls so that the action of the control links from the swash is reduced. I suppose a re-designed swash with extended arms would also do the trick. If the control action from the servos to the head was reduced, then you could put more sensitive blades on it without upsetting the AS3X control algorithms. |
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Short balls on the swash is a step in the right direction, but it's not enough to make up for the larger blades. Give it a try, you'll see. I'd like to see more experimenting with different blades for this heli.
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