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Re: looks like it's going to be 16cells...Quote:
I usually rip off as much cardboard as possible first and then give the cells the bath. That way, you end up with less mushy cardboard. Hope that helps, Ryan |
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Helps a lot. I was soaking them in alcohol. I have never had cells that had voltage like this. My cells are showing 1.3 volts!!!!!
amazing!!!!! It was taking me 10 minutes to scrape the first few cells clean, with hot warter and alchohol it's taking me about 20 seconds!!!! Great!!! |
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Last edited by soholingo; Oct 01, 2003 at 11:04 PM.
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Finally, building this thing...
My mini Graphite came without instructions, and I have done my research so I am going to post my pictures and construction in this thread. First bit of construction on this plane is fixing the poor flap deflections. The common trick has been to drill into the wiper blade and insert the brass clevis into the wiper and reinforce it. Here is how I did it...
Drill the wiper with a 3/32 drill bit. And then with a little coaxing the brass clevis will screw right in... |
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These pictures are horrible...
sorry about the poor quality of the pics...
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Here is a shot of the "mix" being applied inside the wiper and surrounding the brass clevis. I did a mix of:
3 hour epoxy (with a bit extra hardner) lots of microballons (for that light airy feel) a bit of milled glass (for strength) This is how I will leave it for tonight, I will take better pics tomorrow... |
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Same solution as I had
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Joni
The instructions, I received, recommend a hard balsa block/strip must be glued in, with a tight fit, between the front of the wing servos and the main spar - I assume this is to prevent flexing of the top skin / flutter. Looking at your pics I see you have used the Volz alum. mounts - I used the plastic Volz servo mounts available from Hoellin - our mounts obviously spread the load over a bigger area and in addition I have an extra layer of glass on the inside of the upper skin (also in the instructions) - I was wondering if the hard balsa block is needed although, t is not a big job to add it! Some of the guys on this site used the factory fitted holes for the flap horns. I will be sport flying - do I need the full 80 degree deflections to land on a fairly small field ? |
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MG flaps
rorywquin,
for reference check the video on this thread (address is posted by me on Sep 23, 2003). There you can see my MG landing with about 40 degrees of flaps. It is quite ok, but I am still planning to modify it for 80 degrees in order to get better control while landing in small fields. BR Olli |
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I guess we all have our ideas on flaps on the M-G (and other planes) but I find the M-G will land on a postage stamp without any flap mods. I've noticed a lot of folks who have extreme flap extentions seem to have servo problems a lot more often than the norm. To each his own.
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Quote:
If it does not work I will change the horn position !1 |
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Quote:
j |
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Quote:
high obstacles. However it is not possible to have a steep approach at reasonable airspeed with flaps 30 - 40 degrees. When flaps are set to 80 degrees, its possible to start a steep approach after high obstacle is behind plane and still make the landing without hitting the end of landing area. |
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