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Oct 22, 2011, 05:39 PM
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Zaurak3's Avatar
Just received my kit - arrived in perfect condition, and it looks impressive and well made. Also, I have a 38mm `turbo-style' spinner and folding prop coming.

Now I just need to work up the courage to slice off the nose (any suggestions to the brand of whisky I might need for that? ). Am planning to go with the 6-degrees down, 2-degrees right thrust arrangement, as many have suggested.
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Oct 23, 2011, 03:59 PM
your focus needs more focus
jzpilot's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zaurak3
(any suggestions to the brand of whisky I might need for that? ). .

"Maker's Mark"

Oct 23, 2011, 07:16 PM
FPV Desert Beta Test Center
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zaurak3
Just received my kit - arrived in perfect condition, and it looks impressive and well made. Also, I have a 38mm `turbo-style' spinner and folding prop coming.

Now I just need to work up the courage to slice off the nose (any suggestions to the brand of whisky I might need for that? ). Am planning to go with the 6-degrees down, 2-degrees right thrust arrangement, as many have suggested.
Cutting through the epoxyed BB's with a blade could be a real pain. I have a bench disc sander and just ground the nose down to the epoxy. A couple of minutes with a hammer and punch was all it took.
Oct 23, 2011, 08:02 PM
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Zaurak3's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary Evans
Cutting through the epoxyed BB's with a blade could be a real pain. I have a bench disc sander and just ground the nose down to the epoxy. A couple of minutes with a hammer and punch was all it took.
I don't have a bench sander, but I was under the impression (from build photos) that the epoxy/BB mix was located aft of where the nose would accommodate a 38mm spinner (I haven't opened the nose to measure that yet). If that is the case, I wouldn't have to cut through the BB mix with a hobby saw. Happy to hear the hammer and punch made short work of breaking it free. Thanks!
Oct 23, 2011, 08:06 PM
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Zaurak3's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by jzpilot
"Maker's Mark"

Good choice and appropriate! If I can follow the `mark', I can `make' it!
Oct 24, 2011, 12:41 PM
FPV Desert Beta Test Center

Warning on assembly of BOT dihedral braces


I don't know if all ARF planes are the same but on mine the plywood spacers that are epoxied between aluminum plates were not the same thickness. Two were thicker and two were thin. To assemble a brace you need to use one thick and one thin plywood spacer to end up with the correct brace width. The manual does not explain this and the spacers are close enough that you may not notice the thickness differance.
Dec 17, 2011, 10:24 PM
Registered User
NZ7C's Avatar

My BOT ARF Conversion


I started into sailplanes this year with a Radian. My second ship is the ARF BOT. Here's how I modified it:
1) stripped the monokote off and recovered with blue and pearl ultracote
2) reshaped the nose with a little fiberglass and added a Hacker A30 14XL and Graupner 14.5 X 9
3) put rudder and elevator servos under the wing
4) added spoilers
5) replaced the dowel setup on the leading edge with two 6-32 nylon bolts and made an aluminum hatch for access to bolts
6) took the wobble out of the supplied stabilizer pivot tube
7) repainted the red fuselage stripe to black and painted inside of canopy black
(will set up initial CG tomorrow)
It should have the maiden flight this week with the help of a more experienced pilot. I will be curious as to any tip stall potential and how the hacker works out. Here are two picks from my workshop.
Last edited by NZ7C; Dec 18, 2011 at 07:51 AM.
Dec 18, 2011, 10:11 AM
FPV Desert Beta Test Center
That looks great NZ7C.

Mine is also about ready to fly. It is set up for FPV with an onboard audio vario that transmits the signal to the ground station via the audio channel of the video Tx.
Dec 18, 2011, 11:45 AM
Cognitive dissonance
kcaldwel's Avatar
...
Last edited by kcaldwel; Jan 25, 2012 at 11:17 PM.
Dec 18, 2011, 02:00 PM
Mesa AZ, it's a dry heat!

Trimming for Flight


I have flown BOTs since 1979. My first and second were built from the plan published in the January 1979 MA I believe. The model needs to fly at a reasonable speed. It is not a floater. If possible try to get a copy of the Jan 1979construction and flying article by Dave Thornberg, the designer, and read his method of finding the correct glide angle.
Dave refers to moving the CG back a little at a time and adding down elevator until the model 'gets on step' and the glide slope suddenly becomes more shallow.
Don't expect to find this point immediatly, it takes time, experience and practice.
When you are happy, then by all means try the famous 'dive test' per Brian Agnew. It works!

Iain
Dec 18, 2011, 02:03 PM
Registered User
NZ7C's Avatar
Can you describe, or better post a pic, of what your turbulators consist of, and dimensions? I'm new to this so forgive if this is a naive question.Thanks!
Dec 18, 2011, 07:36 PM
Cognitive dissonance
kcaldwel's Avatar
...
Last edited by kcaldwel; Jan 25, 2012 at 11:17 PM.
Dec 19, 2011, 10:24 AM
Cognitive dissonance
kcaldwel's Avatar
...
Last edited by kcaldwel; Jan 25, 2012 at 11:16 PM.
Dec 19, 2011, 11:59 AM
Registered User
NZ7C's Avatar
Kevin -
Thank you for taking time to provide the turbulator jpegs and the technical information. It is most appreciated. As I am not an engineer I wonder if you could explain what the following quoted statement means in lay terms and what "real life" flying difference I might experience with such a change? "From XFLR5 simulations, this should extend the stall at the tips from about 4.5 degrees to 7.5 degrees". Again, I thank you for your input.
Tim
Dec 19, 2011, 01:37 PM
Cognitive dissonance
kcaldwel's Avatar
...
Last edited by kcaldwel; Jan 25, 2012 at 11:15 PM.


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