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Aug 20, 2012, 08:55 AM
Always Fly 2 Mistakes High!
RGS2010's Avatar
My 10 blade should be here today...what is the consensus, put on the "nose cone" or leave it off because it is unbalanced?

Thx,

Russ
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Aug 20, 2012, 09:12 AM
Not enough hours in the day
Slaanesh's Avatar
Check Schubeler fans especially their HDT High Dynamic Thrust range. Low blade count, light weight carbon rotors.
Aug 20, 2012, 09:27 AM
Registered User
anlucas's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by RGS2010
My 10 blade should be here today...what is the consensus, put on the "nose cone" or leave it off because it is unbalanced?

Thx,

Russ
Try it on rotating at various positions and if necessary add weight inside. I Use the cone to dynamically balance the whole system.
Aug 20, 2012, 10:08 AM
Registered User
erh7771's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slaanesh
Check Schubeler fans especially their HDT High Dynamic Thrust range. Low blade count, light weight carbon rotors.
I've been looking for these fans and haven't found one place that sells them...

I understand they sell without the motor
Aug 20, 2012, 10:34 AM
Gorilla Glue Expert
PikeStaff's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by erh7771
I've been looking for these fans and haven't found one place that sells them...

I understand they sell without the motor
http://shop.rc-electric-jets.com/Sch...30-DIA-HDT.htm
Aug 20, 2012, 03:44 PM
Big gov never Works
St. Martin's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by RGS2010
My 10 blade should be here today...what is the consensus, put on the "nose cone" or leave it off because it is unbalanced?

Thx,

Russ
Both my CS10's balanced very well. First static balance the rotor on a good magnetic balancer. Then I placed a 1/8" sq piece of tape(unded up with paper masking tape), on the inside of the spinner near the flange. Rotate the spinner in 1/4 turn increments. I had to re-position the tape once. One fan uses the Tams adapter(5mm), washer spinner, Efflux alloy shroud. This one is smoother. Possibly because of the 5mm shaft on the BL32. But I still used the tape sq under the alum spinner.

Fuzz
Aug 20, 2012, 05:34 PM
The best in EDF since 2005
Extreme_RC's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by rfodor
I bent the shaft on my 4mm 2858-1 and thought oh well I'll just replace it. When I opened up the motor and pulled the rotor I found a solid piece of machined steel with the magnets glued on (I asume) and wrapped with fiber glass.
I will have to look at an old rotor again, never took much notice of the carrier. They are wrapped in kevlar supposedly, and then coated in some sort of silicon, if you nick this in any way it unravels and siezes the motor, very difficult motors to work on.
Aug 20, 2012, 05:53 PM
Perpetually covered in resin
RawmadeCF's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Extreme_RC
I will have to look at an old rotor again, never took much notice of the carrier. They are wrapped in kevlar supposedly, and then coated in some sort of silicon, if you nick this in any way it unravels and siezes the motor, very difficult motors to work on.
Yeah it's kevlar. Easily mistaken for fiberglass. These motors are why I hate buying inrunners =)
Aug 20, 2012, 06:47 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Extreme_RC
I will have to look at an old rotor again, never took much notice of the carrier. They are wrapped in kevlar supposedly, and then coated in some sort of silicon, if you nick this in any way it unravels and siezes the motor, very difficult motors to work on.
Mine started to unravel but I put some very thin CA on it and it sealed right up. It doesn't look like kevlar, but it may be. I trimed the loose hairs with surgical sissors and then thin CAed it. Seems to be working fine.

What I'm not sure about is how the rear bearing carrier stays in place. On the ARC motors it is a press fit. I tapped it back in place but I am concerned about it staying there. On the bench it seems OK.
Aug 20, 2012, 06:53 PM
Registered User
P. S. This is why this forum is so valuable...... here we are, half way around the world from each other and sharing valuable info on a $90.00 motor. Awesome.
Aug 20, 2012, 07:09 PM
The best in EDF since 2005
Extreme_RC's Avatar
The end caps should be glued on, not sure what they use but I have used a quality CA before and been ok, just clean out the old gunk and sand the edges where it joins. There is a locktite glue available that supposedly works very well in this situation, black colour? Not sure on what it is.
Aug 20, 2012, 07:38 PM
Gorilla Glue Expert
PikeStaff's Avatar
LockTite Stud and Bearing Mount, green in color.
Aug 20, 2012, 09:14 PM
Registered User
Thanks guys, I appreciate the guidance.
Aug 20, 2012, 09:40 PM
The best in EDF since 2005
Extreme_RC's Avatar
I have the green locktite retaining compound for installing bearings etc, but didnt think it was strong enough for this sort of application. There is a black locktite product guys are using to glue magnets into bells and cases together, but no idea what its called.
Aug 20, 2012, 09:49 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Extreme_RC
I have the green locktite retaining compound for installing bearings etc, but didnt think it was strong enough for this sort of application. There is a black locktite product guys are using to glue magnets into bells and cases together, but no idea what its called.
I found this on google, Locktite Black Max CA. Shear Strength 3770 PSI, Tensile Strength 2700 PSI.

Loctite® 380™ Black Max Low viscosity, black, rubber toughened, one part, room temperature cure, instant adhesive designed for bonding metal, rubber and selected plastics. Excellent peel, impact and sheer strength.


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