Change Sun 10 blade 70mm - Page 283 - RC Groups
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Jun 15, 2012, 05:41 AM
Registered User
Tamjets's Avatar
Just done some testing with full ducting with 58mm exhaust tube in the F-100.
Steve Neu and I been doing R&D lately. He got my TJ70 doing testing and I got his sample motor here doing testing to compare data.
So far the number look really good.
If everything is accurate from what I see.
IT show 10% more effecient than all testing we di with E-flite motor and Mega on the same RPM.
I'll wait for Steve result come in to compare with his testing on the bench with bellmount lip and 58mm exhaust tube.

Soon we had Neu/Tamjets version motor at 2000 watts will do the same as 2300 watts Mega and E-Flite BL32.
As right now information of motor and kv is hidden secret until we had productions ready.
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Jun 15, 2012, 06:28 AM
EDF rules... :)
AirX's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterVRC
Or also between the heatsink and motor, if that is all you have (eg for a plastic fan housing).
You can use computer thermal paste, there are some useful 'thickish' grey types. eg Arctic Silver etc.
Not the thinnish white cheap stuff.
My StuMax 90mm has white thermal paste, are you saying that it is a poor heat conductor. I might have to get with ExtremeRC on this.

Eric B.
Jun 15, 2012, 10:11 AM
Hey Ya'll!! Watch THIS!!
Michael Paxton's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by AirX
My StuMax 90mm has white thermal paste, are you saying that it is a poor heat conductor. I might have to get with ExtremeRC on this.

Eric B.
I'm running a HET 700-60 at 3400 watts in my Stu 80mm....I think the paste is doing it's job just fine!
Plus the Stumax alloy center is way bigger than any heat sink! Lots of heat transfer area!
Jun 15, 2012, 10:53 AM
EDF rules... :)
AirX's Avatar
Hi Michael,
Thanks for that info.
I didnt think mark would use something that was inadequate.
Eric B.
Jun 15, 2012, 12:16 PM
Gorilla Glue Expert
PikeStaff's Avatar
The white stuff, typically, uses a ceramic compound for the heat-transfer mechanism. The silvery-looking stuff uses either real silver or aluminum. That's apparently about the only real difference.

Some interesting reading: http://www.dansdata.com/goop.htm
Jun 15, 2012, 01:38 PM
EDF rules... :)
AirX's Avatar
Pike,

Thanks for that, good reading.

Eric B.
Jun 15, 2012, 01:55 PM
Gorilla Glue Expert
PikeStaff's Avatar
I'm partial to Crest for my heatsink paste.......
Jun 15, 2012, 02:19 PM
Hawk Fanatic
SkylineFlyer's Avatar
Here is the skinny on my quick assessment of the CS10blade 70mm fan w/ STOCK motor from the Venom F-86. I quickly used a spare 50A ESC and on 4s4400mAh 45c (extremely tired nanotechs from last year) and for the initial run up, it seems to be holding. Not sure on the longevity of it all, but here are the numbers after about 30 seconds of run. I'm also not sure on if these are good numbers or if this Venom F-86 will be a dog. Your thoughts?

44 Amps
653.4 Watts
Jun 15, 2012, 03:16 PM
Registered User
anlucas's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by SkylineFlyer
Here is the skinny on my quick assessment of the CS10blade 70mm fan w/ STOCK motor from the Venom F-86. I quickly used a spare 50A ESC and on 4s4400mAh 45c (extremely tired nanotechs from last year) and for the initial run up, it seems to be holding. Not sure on the longevity of it all, but here are the numbers after about 30 seconds of run. I'm also not sure on if these are good numbers or if this Venom F-86 will be a dog. Your thoughts?

44 Amps
653.4 Watts
Looks rather low for this motor. It should be 60ish amps and 900-1000watts.

Is this measurement taken in the airframe or is it wihout an inlet lip?

If it is on a test stand without an inlet lip then all is OK or your batteries are not up to it.

In the airframe watts/amps and thrust will go up.

Now whether the motor lasts long, that's another question.
Last edited by anlucas; Jun 15, 2012 at 03:43 PM.
Jun 15, 2012, 03:56 PM
Hawk Fanatic
SkylineFlyer's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by anlucas
Looks rather low for this motor. It should be 60ish amps and 900-1000watts.

Is this measurement taken in the airframe or is it wihout an inlet lip?

If it is on a test stand without an inlet lip then all is OK or your batteries are not up to it.

In the airframe watts/amps and thrust will go up.

Now whether the motor lasts long, that's another question.
On test stand w/out intake lip.
Jun 15, 2012, 08:18 PM
Progress with the process...
M3ATpl0w's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by SkylineFlyer
On test stand w/out intake lip.
Put the lip on and retry.
Jun 15, 2012, 08:35 PM
Hawk Fanatic
SkylineFlyer's Avatar
Retried with lip. Like I said. Lipos are old, puffed, and pieces of crap.

With the lip:

749.6 Watts
53.17 Amps
Jun 15, 2012, 09:21 PM
Reef333
Here is a few videos of my HK fiberglass f16 w/ arc 28-58-1 in a wemo minifan, on a 6s. After I repair it and change the rx in it, I should have some longer and better ones for you.

HobbyKing F-16, w- Arc 28-58-1,70mm MiniFan Pro,6s Repainted,Red Tail and Retracts (2 min 25 sec)


HobbyKing F-16, w- Arc 28-58-1,70mm MiniFan Pro,6s Repainted,Red Tail and Retracts 2 (6 min 59 sec)
Jun 15, 2012, 10:01 PM
Don't Move I've Dropped My Nut
bamaguy's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by dpowellmeii
Sweet, what A-10 is this?
That A-10 is the LX models A-10.....I also have one. Available from www.toysonics.com (Los Angeles)
Jun 16, 2012, 12:10 AM
Registered User
anlucas's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by SkylineFlyer
Retried with lip. Like I said. Lipos are old, puffed, and pieces of crap.

With the lip:

749.6 Watts
53.17 Amps
Oh well, at least the motor is not going to fry with these lipos...


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