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Oct 18, 2012, 08:15 AM
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Hey nick no biggy. I dont mind shortening the cs shroud a bit but is it absolutely necessary? Because if not, i will leave it the way it is. Yeah the ff shroud only has two screw holes. I was thinking about that. Question, would cutting the cs shroud cause any performance issues?
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Oct 18, 2012, 08:47 AM
Registered User
4stripes's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterVRC
Here is a nice Leopard for the CS12 on 6S.....

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/RC-Sea-36...item3a6653f966

Note the pics down lower show it is an "EDF type".... 4 bolt mounting, and cooling holes. But the top page pic shows 6 hole car mounting.
I would want to ask them WHICH you will get! You need the 4 hole, otherwise it would need to be modified.
$80 with free shipping... 2400W specs..... looks to be a good choice for 'very good' 6S power.
HK has the same motor (not in stock)
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=17735
Surely someone here has tried it.
I'm guessing the amp draw around 120A on 6S. Cooling holes would be needed, along with some pretty decent batteries.
Oct 18, 2012, 09:54 AM
Should've, Would've, Could've
v8truckin's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by out of stock
Hey nick no biggy. I dont mind shortening the cs shroud a bit but is it absolutely necessary? Because if not, i will leave it the way it is. Yeah the ff shroud only has two screw holes. I was thinking about that. Question, would cutting the cs shroud cause any performance issues?
If it only has 2 motor mount screw holes then no I wouldn't use it. Cutting the CS12 shroud isn't real hard.
Oct 18, 2012, 10:45 AM
Closed Account
Will do! Hey hk finally shipped my stuff. However I'm a bit concerned about the shipping method. I chose the most expensive (ems) and when i click on the tracking link, it takes me to hong kong post. Uhh, is that normal? I'm used to usps. Have you guys experienced that?
Oct 18, 2012, 10:51 AM
Should've, Would've, Could've
v8truckin's Avatar
Copy the tracking # and track it on USPS. They'll be delivering it once it arrives in the states, but track it the whole time. If it was fastest shipping you should have it in no more than a wk.
Oct 18, 2012, 11:00 AM
Closed Account
Awzome thanks v8!
Oct 18, 2012, 11:07 AM
Fly now crash later
davecrash's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterVRC
Hmmmm, I went and did some reading on that Warhead 1350kv....
Not too good over 80A.... smoke for sure by 100A
1150W max power spec.... 65A max Amp spec.... Which is pretty much what 5S would drive it to in most cases.
Allow X amount for going over specs.... on 6S for a start.... Say 70A = 1500W or so. Still weak...

7S 80A area.... 2000W.... useful power..... but not likely to last too well by that level!!

My 3764-1400kv does 95A Peak... 88A ongoing... on 7S in the CS12, so this Warhead would be TRYING to head towards that - just a little way shorter due to the lower KV.... but likely to fall further short due to its construction meaning it can't drive the load as well either. Thus my guess at 80A area for 7S. (prob 85A area peak).

I can see trouble coming with this on 7S in a CS12...... which is in line with what an $18 motor is likely to do!


But I will set it up and test it.... sometimes you can be surprised! (I am not holding my breath!! LOL)

Dave, do you have any Amp/Power numbers from that Mig/Warhead combo???? And its AUW... and how it flies? Thanks.

Note that the Turnigy 3025-1500kv is cheaper, and rated for 1500W (not that HK numbers mean anything most times!!) And it does seem 'happy' in that 1500W to 1800W area.... but also would not like 7S/80A, or more, too much either.
I posted them awhile back, I seem to recall around 80 - 85 amp WOT static. I checked the heat on the test stand and it was good temps.


Updating with info i found.
On the CS fan with Warhead 1350kv on 7S I got a top speed of 192 kph. This was with about a 20 k tail wind (This was in Ottawa at the jet rally)

On 7S the max temp was 95F. I could touch the motor and it was just kinda warm.
7S 4000mah 40C zippy's 3 + 4S
This plane and I were in the last issue of MAN (canadian edition)
Last edited by davecrash; Oct 18, 2012 at 11:39 AM.
Oct 18, 2012, 05:26 PM
Registered User
Well that all sounds good numbers and result for the 7S Warhead!!
I actually forgot about it already.... but will drag it all out tonight and set it up!
I like 7S..... and am starting to dislike 6S....
6S is a bit costly in Amps - ESC needs, power leads size/warmth, and 7S lower C is also cheaper.
Oct 18, 2012, 05:31 PM
Tape n' glue, Good as New!
Got my fan/motor combo the other day from x-flight. Looked pretty good, tho not as pretty as my 64mm all-alloy edf from epf hobbies anyway, noticed the wires ( which are routed out the back of the unit) have a lot of their casings gouged and cut down to the metal!! My guess is it was really out of balance so he pulled the wires out of the exit hole that's on the shroud then rotated the motor and rather then make another exit hole he ran 'em out the back?!!? Guess i'll have to take 'er apart to tape 'em up. :P
Oct 18, 2012, 05:40 PM
Registered User
Use heatshrink.... and fix up the sharp edges while you are at it. hehe
Oct 18, 2012, 07:34 PM
Registered User
4stripes's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by jussyjonny
Got my fan/motor combo the other day from x-flight. Looked pretty good, tho not as pretty as my 64mm all-alloy edf from epf hobbies anyway, noticed the wires ( which are routed out the back of the unit) have a lot of their casings gouged and cut down to the metal!! My guess is it was really out of balance so he pulled the wires out of the exit hole that's on the shroud then rotated the motor and rather then make another exit hole he ran 'em out the back?!!? Guess i'll have to take 'er apart to tape 'em up. :P
Take your time doing things right the first time. Locktite all set screws, even the ones on the motor. File the flat spot on the motor shaft far enough back so the adapter can be placed as far on the shaft as possible. I have had one that was not filed far enough so the adapter was not supported as well as it should be. Check the adapter is as true as possible without any play. If the hole is oversize, you will get play causing no end of balancing trouble. In this case a very small amount of epoxy deep in the adapter will stabilize the end once the motor shaft is in place. Wax the motor shaft or it won't be possible to remove. Try to find the best position on the motor shaft trying all 4 possibilities before any epoxy (if needed).
Then the fun starts, dynamic balancing!
Oct 18, 2012, 08:30 PM
Registered User
erh7771's Avatar
The SUPPO 190/200 amp esc is voltage protecting on 8s now instead of 7s...slow cut in power also.

I was drawing 110 amps WOT on 8s with the 1400kv 4074 HK motor...

REALLY scooted FF F100 along, too quite for my taste in that airframe though
Oct 18, 2012, 08:58 PM
Tape n' glue, Good as New!
Heatshrink, of course! Forgot about that stuff, I even have some...we'll see if it fits. If not, my trusty roll of elec. tape will do. Hey, just wanting to run it up 'n make sure it works before my 45 day dispute period thru paypal is up..... is this motor ok with 4s?
Oct 18, 2012, 10:44 PM
Tape n' glue, Good as New!
Ok, so I ran it up on 4s and..... She ran near-perfect!! Then I tried to take the screw out of the front nosecone and it came out only so far and no further. Figured it must be stripped so I managed to tighten it back up only to find I can't get it tight enough so that the fan won't turn free without the motor, yet When I turn the fan it feels like it's way stiffer and it won't spin freely…
I knew Ishould've left it alone!! Arrrgh!
Oct 19, 2012, 07:15 AM
Registered User
4stripes's Avatar
When you attempted to loosen the front screw that is in the center of the spinner, did you hold the motor to prevent the adapter from turning?
If the motor shaft isn't tight enough, the shaft can twist in the motor bell. If you drill a 1/8"hole in the shroud, in line with the adapter set screws, the allen key can be used to hold the shaft from turning.
Last edited by 4stripes; Oct 19, 2012 at 07:21 AM.


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