Split 280: Should I retire this plane (brick) ? - RC Groups
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Sep 18, 2003, 09:11 PM
I told them, I was drunk.
temp_oct's Avatar

Split 280: Should I retire this plane (brick) ?

I got the Split as my 2nd plane coz a guy in a shop try to sell me as an 'easy and tough' aerobatic plane.... apparently that is not true.

I spent a number of crashes, fixes, mods on this plane until I have it actually flown. Here is the list;

1. Carbon figer rods on fuse and wings
2. # of broken 5x5 DD prop for unsuccessful tries
3. Better mount for 5x5 prop (stock prop come loose easy)
4. POT3 power system ($40, broken at the second attempt to fly with new power system)
5. GWS 300C as new power systems
6. several GWS shafts, motor mount and a bunch of 1047, 1080 props
7. Another BIG carbon fiber rod to stop the wing from flipping (remove the old rod, broken by so many attempts to fly)

The plane can bearly fly now. It is on the heavier side (10+ oz). It is not stable and not so fun to fly. The body EPP foam brake easily when landing (*NOT* crash)!

Something like E-starter is definately more enjoyable (for me). Should I try to upgrade the power system (again) or should I remove the electronics and dump the plane....
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Sep 18, 2003, 09:28 PM
Registered User
I have one of these and love it. I built it stock with the exception wrapping the fuse in packing tape Zagi style, using 1020ma Kokam packs and using a prop adapter to mount a reamed out Gunther prop on. I flew it on 8 x 700 aaa's OK, but the switch to Li-poly reduced the weight to around 7.7 ounces and resulted in a very tough, flyable plane. Another tip is to support it from the wing tips in between flying days to induce a little dehidral. I am sure there are better/easier flying planes out there, but you can nose this in full throttle and at most just bend a prop. You can't horse it around, you really need to build airspeed and fly with the wings, but that helps the learning curve. The leap to Li-poly will benifit every plane you own also. Good luck, WStrouse.
Sep 18, 2003, 09:55 PM
Registered User
loading's Avatar
I got this one as about my 3rd plane. The only change I made was to move up to a GWS 370 motor. I still used direct drive. I learned a lot with this one. By the end, I had it flying great. Not because I fixed the plane, but because I learned how to fly it. I don't know what you flew before this, but it isn't really what I would call a park flyer. It needs to be flown fast. If you are used to planes like the Tiger Moth, you may not be letting it bulid up enough speed. That was the position I was in when I first started to fly it.
Sep 18, 2003, 10:29 PM
clever phrase here
Foam Crazy's Avatar
when you're done "splitting" it "2" "80" pieces, dump it. this bird is no good. they really should remove that "boink, zoom" motto. someone was smoking crack on that one. yes, i must be a terrible,terrible pilot.

really though, if you can fly em, then good for you.
Sep 19, 2003, 02:27 AM
I told them, I was drunk.
temp_oct's Avatar
Thank you for the replies.
I'm thinking of 380 DD. I'm not sure about current draw.
I feel the plane is not stable. In addition, mine is too heavy already... (8 oz W/O battery and prop .... 12+ oz AUW)
Sep 19, 2003, 07:27 AM
RIP "Long Shadow Flyer"
crvogt's Avatar
I guess I was one of the lucky ones, I purchqsed a Split280 a while back and set it aside while I got a lot of stick time on my homemade Bluecor foamies. When I felt I was ready for someting a bit faster I pulled the Split280 off the shelf and built it using many of the suggestions posted on the forums..
The nose is taped with Ripstop kite repair tape, then colored packing tape. Put some packing tape on the wings.
According to the posts and a review, the plane was supposed to fly with the stock motor set-up, not sure why some guys it worked great and for others (including myself) the plane would not fly with the stock setup...
Ended up changing out the motor with a GWS 300 and the 5x3 prop that came with the motor..


This seemed to do the trick, WOW was it fast, and OUT OF CONTROL!!!
I needed to adjust my transmitter (Hitec Flash 4) to about 30% on the aleron throws and reduced the elevator to 50%
Now the plane flew like it should have with the stock setup..

The plane flys great, and is a real hoot to fly, ALL my recent crashes are "pilot error", I tend to loose orentation and make the wrong corrections...

You might want to set it aside for a while and build up some more stick time on your other planes, then come back to it later...
I am glad that I waited for a while.. It took a lot to get it flying, but I am VERY happy with the durability of this Plane, With some of the crashes I have had I am VERY glad it is not a Balsa model!!!! I am learning Aerobatic flying takes a lot of practice and crashes to become a good pilot.. Need more time on FMS simulator, hehehe!

Hope this helps
Sep 19, 2003, 01:18 PM
I told them, I was drunk.
temp_oct's Avatar
Hi Carl,
What speed control you use (how many amps)? How's about AUW?
Thanks again,
Sep 19, 2003, 03:57 PM
RIP "Long Shadow Flyer"
crvogt's Avatar
The AUW on my Split 280 came out to 9.9 oz with the landing gear that I added. Haven't tried ROG the landing gear is more for looks and saving the props.... I don't think it will ROG because to get it to fly you need to give it a really good toss, needs to be going about 15-20mph to get it going....

I am using a GWS 100 ESC, this is really pushing its limits (8A max), really should have a 10-15A ESC, but so far it is working OK...
Something like the GWS-400 or the Jeti 110 would be a better choice



I am using a 7 cell pack of AAA Nimhs....

Hope this helps
Last edited by crvogt; Sep 19, 2003 at 04:01 PM.
Sep 19, 2003, 04:10 PM
Lookin' Good. Real Good.
larsy87's Avatar
In reference to above post...

Wouldn't it be easier to ROG then handluanch, and elt it build up speed before take off?
Sep 19, 2003, 04:32 PM
I told them, I was drunk.
temp_oct's Avatar
9.9 oz... geez.
I am using GWS EPS300C with 1047 prop. It gives good power but not speed.
Seems like I have to change to direct drive (will it give more of the required speed?)
Sep 19, 2003, 06:05 PM
RIP "Long Shadow Flyer"
crvogt's Avatar
Usually, a direct drive prop turns faster than a geared prop. Unfortunatly GWS only gives you thrust on the tables not RPM...
The 5x3 prop moves through the air 3 inches per Revolution.. if it turns, lts say, 3 times faster than the geared drive you get a lot faster movement through the air...
This is a simple explanation,just to get the general idea, I am sure others have more scientific answers, with more details...

About the ROG, this plane does not have a rudder so stearing on take off is not possible.. that is why I prefer to hand launch...

I have other Bluecor planes with rudders that are more fun for take-off and landings...

Hope this helps
Apr 21, 2004, 08:38 PM
Registered User

Split 280 question

I have a split 280 and am minutes from throwing it away.

I put a 400 speed motor in and carbon rod on top of wing. With Nicads (7 or *) there seems to be too much weight to fly except wide open which kills batteries in no time.

The final thing I was thinking of doing was using the speed 400 direct drive with some sort of Lithium poly set up.

Have never used lithiums before. Don't know much about them. So which pack would be best (if anything will work)? Am I going to cook an expensive battery pack by trying this craziness? What size speed control do I have to use?

Any assistance will be greatly appreciated.

Apr 21, 2004, 09:47 PM
Oops, reversed elevator!
Caveman's Avatar
Goofeyfoot, I have good success with flying Split 280. It's not a beginner's plane. It likes to fly fast.
Stock setup with 280 motor is a bit under power, but if you get the speed up, you can loop it continuously, large loop. It will not climb more than 30 degree in a long climb out with stock motor.
I change my motor to cheap 50 cent Johnson 250 motor, power it with Tanic 850 2s. It's awesome now with this setup. Gunther prop is fine, but the motor gets hot after flight, and I mostly fly 1/2 to 2/3 throttle. Climb out is about 45 degree or more, continous loops is no problem without losing altitude. I have more than 20 flights and hasn't burn the 50 cent motor yet. Roll rate is great, barrel roll is quite impressive.
It's a fast small plane so you have to keep your eyes on it all the time. I coloured the bottome of the coroplast control surface, so I can tell up or down more easily.
GWS 4.5x3 prop is fine, but the prop get bend more easily on landing.

It's my current favourite plane (but my favourite plane changes monthly) and can fly in a fairly good wind. Off power glide is good.
I think speed 400 is too heavy. I think lipo setup is a must for this plane.

Apr 21, 2004, 09:56 PM
Oops, reversed elevator!
Caveman's Avatar
BTW, mine flying weight is about 8 oz. with tanic 850 2s Lipo and Johnson 250 and GWS 4.5x3 prop. A fantastic flyer!
Apr 22, 2004, 06:09 PM
Where's your CofG?
Gibby's Avatar

Split 280

Got a Split 280 about 3 weeks ago. Set it up with a Himaxx 2015-4100, 3s1p 1200, and 5x3. AUW is about 7oz. First 4 flights were great, fun plane. 5th flight I did a cartwheel on landing and broke the shaft on the motor, didn't even break or bend prop. That weekend I went to the LHS and bought another Himaxx and put it in. 6th flight wasn't trimed correctly on take off and I didn't adjust well and cartwheeled again (in grass) and broke another motor shaft, again no prop damage. Granted you are not supposed to cartwheel your plane but it's the first and last two Himaxx products I'll buy. I have a AXI 2208/36 (putting a 6x4 on this one) coming tomorrow which has a little bigger diameter shaft. Hopefully I get this plane back up in the air without anymore problems because it's fun to fly with the BL and LiPo.

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