Lumenier RB2205C-12 2400KV SKITZO Ceramic Bearing Motor
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Old Oct 25, 2012, 06:39 PM
Panzlflyer is offline
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Tricopters Rule
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Originally Posted by AutoPilotOn View Post
Does anybody know which wires to hook up to run the RSSI out on the Rx to the temp 1 input on the eagle tree OSD. I tried the top (PPM side) on the DL to the center pin on the temp 1 input on the OSD and it doesn't work. Any ideas
On mine (12Ch) its the one labeled rssi (signal pin)and then hook it up to Et as you did.
You have to run the servo analysis to get it to work and go thru the dropdowns in the osd to tell it to use temp1 for rssi
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Old Oct 25, 2012, 08:01 PM
marcin.gala is offline
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OK got nice solid blue led on RX's.
Think calibration need more time ,would say around 20minutes.Then it's fine.
Now need to test that Dragon Link... ;-)
Old Oct 25, 2012, 08:40 PM
Panzlflyer is offline
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Tricopters Rule
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Originally Posted by Juninou View Post
Nice!! Thanks for the info! 8ch is more than I need now for my Zeph.
So how do you stop the transmitter to emmit it's original frequency? (I know, another dumb question...!)

Thanks again!
All the ones listed have a transmitter module which you remove and then plug the DL to the pins that the module connected to, transmitter sends ppm to the DL instead of its module.
http://www.dragonlinkstore.com/v2/node/10
You dont need the resistor with V2
Old Oct 25, 2012, 09:10 PM
AutoPilotOn is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Panzlflyer View Post
On mine (12Ch) its the one labeled rssi (signal pin)and then hook it up to Et as you did.
You have to run the servo analysis to get it to work and go thru the dropdowns in the osd to tell it to use temp1 for rssi
It worked...Servo analysis was what i was missing before...Thanks!
Old Oct 25, 2012, 09:11 PM
greenbay is offline
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Hello,Mike.I have pay the money to you buy dragon link via paypal,but you return to me.Why???
Do you have it on stock?Thank you.
Old Oct 25, 2012, 09:25 PM
cody069 is offline
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Originally Posted by greenbay View Post
Hello,Mike.I have pay the money to you buy dragon link via paypal,but you return to me.Why???
Do you have it on stock?Thank you.
With the carry on here from some off his customer I would send your money back and tell you to go buy another brand...( If I was him)
Old Oct 25, 2012, 09:28 PM
timbocan is offline
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status LED


Hi all ; i'm after a bit of info,
i have got my DL connected to TX and have the solid green light.
powered up DL-RX with the jumper on 5&6 signal pins, and get the
three lights lite, so all good so far
so here is where i'm getting stuck; with the callibration of 15 to 20 minutes
it said to leave sit for that long, then power them both off.
Do i take the jumper off the RX before or after powering off.
Then when it mentions a green light on TX and blue light on RX , does that
mean that only the blue light should be on, or all three lights.
Thanks in advance , i'm slowly working it all out , HaHa - so much to learn.
Old Oct 25, 2012, 09:44 PM
Panzlflyer is offline
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Tricopters Rule
Power off then remove jumper.
Blue light is your link status it needs to be solid. Green off
Old Oct 25, 2012, 10:06 PM
timbocan is offline
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Thanks for reply, so the jumper is only needed for the callibration,
the binding & ID change are all done with out the jumper after inital callibration.
if i understand correctly. the RX should only have sold blue light, what about the power light . the red one ? that stays on too - (yes-no)
Old Oct 25, 2012, 10:31 PM
glassdogangle is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timbocan View Post
Thanks for reply, so the jumper is only needed for the callibration,
the binding & ID change are all done with out the jumper after inital callibration.
if i understand correctly. the RX should only have sold blue light, what about the power light . the red one ? that stays on too - (yes-no)
When you are ready to fly, the red LED and the blue LED should be on solid on your RX. And yes, the jumper is used to calibrate, and also to change a parameter or two (such as rssi output on either channel 9 or channel 12), but NOT for changing the ID, and NOT for binding.
Old Oct 25, 2012, 10:59 PM
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So if i get only red light on RX after callibration ; then i'm best to try again.
replace the jumper - place TX in cal mode - power on RX and let sit a bit longer
this time , and see how it goes. i'll try the 20min instead of 15min.
so the only indication that i have got it right. is that after the set time, i power down
both TX & RX then remove jumper .
power them up again and hope for a solid blue and red light on RX.
Thanks for the help ALL.
Old Oct 25, 2012, 11:24 PM
glassdogangle is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timbocan View Post
So if i get only red light on RX after callibration ; then i'm best to try again.
replace the jumper - place TX in cal mode - power on RX and let sit a bit longer
this time , and see how it goes. i'll try the 20min instead of 15min.
so the only indication that i have got it right. is that after the set time, i power down
both TX & RX then remove jumper .
power them up again and hope for a solid blue and red light on RX.
Thanks for the help ALL.
No, you won't get a solid blue until after you bind!!!! After you Calibrate, Change ID, and Bind, you will have solid red and blue!
Old Oct 25, 2012, 11:49 PM
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Thanks again; just finished the sit test and ended up with just the red light again;
was sure it was something simple , in the process that i was missing.
will continue on with ID change & binding. and let you know how i go.
Old Oct 26, 2012, 12:48 AM
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Thanks again!!!!
Before I rush to go buy another remote though, theoritally I should be fine with my 2.4ghz futaba+Dlink v2 if my fpv setup is 1.3ghz...?

Thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Panzlflyer View Post
All the ones listed have a transmitter module which you remove and then plug the DL to the pins that the module connected to, transmitter sends ppm to the DL instead of its module.
http://www.dragonlinkstore.com/v2/node/10
You dont need the resistor with V2
Old Oct 26, 2012, 02:46 AM
timbocan is offline
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on the right track


i think i've worked out what i was doing wrong!
i was trying to bind useing micro-power mode , the difference between
slow flashing green & fast flashing green,
so now i have servo movement , but have flashing blue light - not solid.
still some work to do


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