Originally Posted by Somethin' Extra

I really wish TH would use carbon spars. I just cracked my wood one on my TH mxs and it isnt looking good.....

I cracked my wood spar in my CY at FliteFest 2015 flying through the circle plane (BTW it is in the video, the blue crack yak with the lights on it ). It wasn't looking good either but it wasn't too hard to fix with a couple popsicle sticks.

-Andres

When I built my MXS-C, I had a piece of flat carbon of the same size that I glued flush to the wood spar before fitting it into the slot. It has never once given me trouble, and I do not believe that doing so transfers any crash energy to a place that causes extra damage.

My Crack Pitts, I did not do this on. I have broken the top wing spar twice in different places. It can be somewhat difficult to repair depending on where the break in the spar is. I used foam-safe CA glue, although I'm not really sure EPP is affected by non-foam safe CA. I still had issues with the glue curing and didn't want to hit it with kicker because then it gets really hot.

Originally Posted by dpelletier

That's a cool little plane, I love how it just floats by!!
Now I wish I had an indoor venue.

When I first watched this video I though that the video was playing in slow-motion, its only when coming straight down that you can see its not a slow-mo video.

Originally Posted by Somethin' Extra

I really wish TH would use carbon spars. I just cracked my wood one on my TH mxs and it isnt looking good.....

I've been considering a full replacement

http://www.rcfoam.com/carbon-fiber-s...-fiber-strips/

Yeah the carbon would be better if they where the same shap as the wooden spar that way It would be rigid up and down and have that needed flex from crashes. Just a guess though.

A lot of the TH planes are at least part, if not all, carbon spars nowadays.

Your talking about the older designs when your talking about all wood spars (like the Crack Yak and Crack Pitts). In defense of those designs, they do fly excellent. I think I might try to put a new spar next to the old before I would cut out an entire damaged spar... not sure

I just ordered the carbon strip for my new Crack Yak from rcfoam.com. I hope it weighs the same as the balsa spar.

Also, just to note... this is my second Crack Yak 32" and the kit is different than the first one (from only a month ago, its a long story). The new kit includes plastic parts rather than plywood, also includes snap links rather than those blasted s-links.

Originally Posted by TheMark

I just ordered the carbon strip for my new Crack Yak from rcfoam.com. I hope it weighs the same as the balsa spar.

Also, just to note... this is my second Crack Yak 32" and the kit is different than the first one (from only a month ago, its a long story). The new kit includes plastic parts rather than plywood, also includes snap links rather than those blasted s-links.

Yeah !! the snap links that came with my MXS-C were joyous to work with. Z bends are for people who enjoy frustration imo

Originally Posted by bhoov128

Yeah !! the snap links that came with my MXS-C were joyous to work with. Z bends are for people who enjoy frustration imo

I figured out how to do a painless install of z-bends. stick the horn and the guides on before you glue them into the aircraft.

Originally Posted by Somethin' Extra

I really wish TH would use carbon spars. I just cracked my wood one on my TH mxs and it isnt looking good.....

I am pretty brutal to my MXS-C, and I've never broken a spar. I don't know what I'm doing wrong right.

Only crack one and that was when one of the guys at hobbytown and I had an impromptu combat session with our birds.

Originally Posted by bhoov128

I used foam-safe CA glue, although I'm not really sure EPP is affected by non-foam safe CA. I still had issues with the glue curing and didn't want to hit it with kicker because then it gets really hot.

Regular CA works just fine on EPP. No need to use foam-safe.

I have foam-safe CA, but have just used it a few times on some cheap china kits.
Most EPO foam also don't need foam-safe and glue just fine with the regular CA from Hobbyking.

The second or third time I tried 3S in my Pitts I snapped both spars. First I tried to wick CA into the breaks, but that quickly failed. Then I tried to put a piece of CF in next to the existing broken wooded spar. Also quickly failed on 3S. Finally I broke down and put some CF X bracing between the wings. Makes the whole airframe so much more solid. I fly 95% of the time on 3S with the Pitts and I've had no issues since the mod. Obviously this isn't going to help you with a mxs/yak/ect. broken spar issue but if you have a Pitts that has a broken spar or even if its not broken and you just want to have a more rigid, better performing airframe on 3S(IMHO), its worth the 10 min to try this mod.

*pay no attention to that horrendously gnarled prop....

Originally Posted by Sabin

I figured out how to do a painless install of z-bends. stick the horn and the guides on before you glue them into the aircraft.

Same deal on a replacement pushrod. Make 2 new Zs. Get another rod. Cut off everything old, put your 2 new Zs in the horn and servo arm, slide the rod through the guides and slide shrink on the rod ends and push the shrink up so it connects the rod to the Z, put aluminum foil between the plane and the shrink and shrink it, Cut off the excess rod, drop or two of thin CA, kicker and done.

When i put shrink over wet ca, it catches on fire when i light it. Am i doing it right?