Originally Posted by antslake

I know what bricked means but a detailed description would help me to understand it better. Can't you just clear the eeprom?

Every time I try to flash it again now I get the following from the programmer. Settings are right because I used the same to flash another new ESC however for the "bricked" ESCs thats what I get. Tried both "bricked" and same thing.

Any chances I can save them?

Flash the firmware file.
Flashing firmware from file.: /Users/frviana/Library/Preferences/kkMulticopterFlashTool/bs.hex

/Applications/kkMulticopter Flash Tool.app/Contents/Resources/Java/lib/avrdude/mac/usbtiny/avrdude -C /Applications/kkMulticopter Flash Tool.app/Contents/Resources/Java/lib/avrdude/mac/usbtiny/avrdude.conf -p m8 -P usb -c usbtiny -e -U flash:w:/Users/frviana/Library/Preferences/kkMulticopterFlashTool/bs.hex:i

avrdude: initialization failed, rc=-1
Double check connections and try again, or use -F to override
this check.


avrdude done. Thank you.

Error during writing flash.

Originally Posted by frviana

I removed the -B option and also used another programer I had at home (USB Tiny). It took a few second to write and it worked.

Thank you

See, that is not what I suggested.

The -B is being ignored by your outdated USBASP, and that wouldn't hurt except that it doesn't have any effect and if you really needed to slow the clock down then you will get unreliable operation... which you reported.

You may have circumvented a possible clock speed issue by using the USBTiny.

So, what are you going to do with the USBASP? Have you made it work reliably? Are you going to sort it out or are you going to put it in the rubbish (along with the ESCs that you are certain you have "bricked")?

My suggestion, for what it is worth, is don't chuck the stuff out, but it in a box for later when you know a little more.

IIRC you stated it was a Hobbyking USBASP, lots of people have had problems with them (most recently because they shipped a bunch with no firmware... but that is NOT your problem).

Owen

I have used my HK USB ASP to successfully flash my ER9X and my KK2 board. For some reason it didn't work with the ESC. I will figure out eventually.

Hi,

I will remove the B option in the next version. It was added in the first versions of the Tool. That time I did flash completely new kkboards where the internal clock was on 1MHz by default. But I think there are no people doing this these days anymore.

Best Christian

Originally Posted by LazyZero

Hi,

I will remove the B option in the next version. It was added in the first versions of the Tool. That time I did flash completely new kkboards where the internal clock was on 1MHz by default. But I think there are no people doing this these days anymore.

Best Christian

Christian, the issue here is not the -B... it is just causing a warning with outdated (ie very old) USBASP (and not slowing the clock).

It is worth updating... but you need another programmer to do it. If you have one of the HK devices with a 4kB chip, you can update it to the 2009 firmware which does support -B.

As I explained (and you will know) if someone needs a slow clock with one of those USBASP boards, they MUST use the slow clock jumper. Most people who think it doesn't matter probably have the link installed and always use slow clock!

A 'default' blank ATMEGA8 is 1MHz IIRC, and will need a slow clock.

The simple test is if it works reliably with slower clock, and not with faster clock, then it needs the slower clock.

Owen

Originally Posted by whakahere

Anyone with an idea what this sequence of beeps means? I am calibrating my esc ... It only happens once and the next time I try I get the three beep tone.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NPQtp...ature=youtu.be

Anyone know what this beep sequence means?

Originally Posted by OwenD

Christian, the issue here is not the -B... it is just causing a warning with outdated (ie very old) USBASP.

It is worth updating... but you need another programmer to do it. If you have one of the HK devices with a 4kB chip, you can update it to the 2009 firmware which does support -B.

As I explained (and you will know) if someone needs a slow clock with one of those USBASP boards, they MUST use the slow clock jumper. Most people who think it doesn't matter probably have the link installed and always use slow clock!

A 'default' blank ATMEGA8 is 1MHz IIRC, and will need a slow clock.

The simple test is if it works reliably with slower clock, and not with faster clock, then it needs the slower clock.

Owen

Fully agree with that. So I will remove the -B for the people running original USBasp firmware, and add a target for people with two programmers so that they could update to the firmware by fischl. I look into that the next days.

Christian

Originally Posted by LazyZero

... and add a target for people with two programmers so that they could update to the firmware by fischl. I look into that the next days.

Christian

That sounds like a good idea,

A lot of eBay sellers ship product that is so old it does not support -B. AFAIK, there is no easy way to determine the firmware version... so I just overwrite every one that passes through my hands.

AFAIK, there is no reason to use the slow clock jumper with current firmware and AVRDUDE... -B is a better option. That said, a lot of product ships with the slow jumper installed and users probably don't remove it.

Don't forget to make provision for the 4kB versions (such as the ones Hobbyking was selling until a few weeks ago). Manufacturers seem to use whatever chips they can get cheap!

Owen

I had flashed a Red Brick 50 and it never really worked well on an airplane. I reflashed it and now I get three beeps at power up. I think I read somewhere that this means one or more fets are bad. How do I check the fets to see which one is bad if there is no visual defect, as in visually burned.

I ordered some Afro's!

Ok, I have yet to flash an esc yet. I've done the multiwii, and KK2 firmware, but I am still learning and I really don't want to screw this up. I have the hobbyking usbasp, and the KK fash tool, or I just d/l winavr but I am not sure I know how to use it yet.

I have these:
https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...5365&aff=76811

The data base says I should use kda.hex

Now here is where I guess I am losing it, is there anything I need to edit? I've been reading all this thread for weeks now, and I still don't got it, or feel confident that I am going to do this correctly.

Anthony

Oh yea and I also made one of these:

Ok, I couldn't wait to brick my ESC, so I went ahead and tried it, success. The above combo worked great.



I also had to make a different adapter for the spacing

New Beta of the flashtool without the -B is online.

Best Christian

Thanks Christian for your great software!

As I'm about to flash my newly aquired redbrick 20A escs with simonk firmware and couldn't find the correct pinouts anywhere and as this thread seems to hoard a collection of those I thought it might be useful to post what I measured with my voltmeter right now.
Would be nice if the OP could insert it in the first post. Sorry for my horrible writing!

P.S. Just noticed that due to the rescaling the writing in my pic is not completely unreadable. Will post a better one.....tomorrow.. Right now it's night time here. Bear with me.