maybe not :/

the rctimer ones are ok, i think they will go to slovenia
http://rctimer.com/index.php?gOo=goo...80&productname

i use 18A rctimer, they have been on my quad since last january

Thanks Quad007.

I believe I will order F20 or F30 from HK, and then flash them.
As I read, they are good, and I like to do things myself.

Originally Posted by Drekavac

Thanks Quad007.

I believe I will order F20 or F30 from HK, and then flash them.
As I read, they are good, and I like to do things myself.

Order quick before they go out of stock which they do for months at a time. And order a spare or two. You'll hate yourself if you don't and then need them.

Hi together,

after flying some multirotors for some years i thought it would be time to try out the world famous SimonK ESC Firmware.

I got some Hobbyking SS Series 25-30A ESC (card programmable) (HK-SS30A-HW) here for some test. After looking up the correct firmware (tgy.hex) and flashing it to my ESC everything was fine and my Motors (Keda 20-26M) where spinning nice.

But then I made my first test flights. After two minutes one motor stopped for a split of a second and the Quadrokopter got down. I noticed that my ESC are all quite hot after two minutes of flying. On my other Quads this configuration works perfect and keeps cool. The Problem is always the same, one ESC gets to hot and stops for a split of a second. After some test I noticed that this problem appears at most when the Quad hovers at 1/4 of the power.

Now I am asking me what is the problem, I think, if i took the wrong firmware the ESC would not work. Maybe there is a Problem with the Fusebits? I did not touch them, but maybe there is a problem with the internal clock speed?

A othe thought from me was the ESC is killing itself becouse of that note?

Note: HK-SS18A, HK-SS20A, and maybe other sizes kill themselves (P-FET gate noise) when ran at higher PWM speeds - avoid

Originally Posted by Drekavac

I bought RedBricks 25A with locked atmegas.
So I change them with new ones.

I upgade them with LazyZero SW, all went ok, no errors.

And now this is what I got, strange startup sond.

Can anyone help me, what does this mean?

http://youtu.be/r3Z0SBG6vbg

Sounds like the microcontrollers clock is not what the firmware needs, just a guess but I think your microcontroller's clock is 8MHz and the firmware flashed needs 16Mhz, I'm not sure but I think there are 8MHz firmwares.

Also possible, the fuses got set wrong and it's using internal 8MHz clock instead of external 16MHz xtal.

Andrew

Originally Posted by MasterG

A othe thought from me was the ESC is killing itself becouse of that note?

Yes, use 8KHz firmware.

Btw, quad007 == chatch###? ;-)

Originally Posted by ABLomas

Yes, use 8KHz firmware.

Btw, quad007 == chatch###? ;-)

Are you sure with 8Khz? What firmware is this? tp_8khz.hex?

Originally Posted by MasterG

Are you sure with 8Khz?

No, i'm not sure, please kill some more ESC's to be sure, thanks!

Originally Posted by MasterG

What firmware is this? tp_8khz.hex?

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...BQkZZRlE#gid=0
Link to ESC FW sheet is in 1st post in this thread...
So, you can use the same FW, just 8KHz commutation freq.

Ofcourse I will try, but I don't know how...

Originally Posted by quad007

on my kk2, roll is all the way up on 90 lol.

Let me know when you've hit 320...

Originally Posted by ABLomas

So, you can use the same FW, just 8KHz commutation freq.

Sorry, I donīt know what you mean. Can you give me a other hint? Of course I know where to find the Firmware.

Since weeks I (and a friend of mine with the same setup) had problems with several motor glitches during flight with the hexacopter. Two times it ended with a crash but in most cases I could land safety.
I have flashed Mystery 40A 2-6S ESC.from HobbyKing and was pretty satisfied with them but then we had intermittent problems with motor glitches.
Now I know the problems really started after we have used 5S batteries instead of 4s batteries. In the meantime I tried everything possible to eliminate or find the cause, I had swapped motors, rewired everything and soldered every cable directly but the problem did not go away. I found out the problem occurred most of the time right after start and the last few days it was always the same motor #5 which shut down. During my last test in my garage I cold reproduce the problem and after I have swapped the battery to continue testing one of the Mystery ESC burned down.
I have documented some of the issues in the video:

Copter crash with Mystery 40A ESC (3 min 34 sec)

The burning and failing component was a mosfet TC4421
This are the specs:
The TC4421/TC4422 are high-current buffer/drivers capable of driving large MOSFETs and IGBTs.
These devices are essentially immune to any form of upset, except direct overvoltage or over-dissipation.
Wide Input Supply Voltage Operating Range: 4.5V to 18V
http://datasheet.octopart.com/TC4421...sheet-2975.pdf

In my opinion this ESC is NOT SUITABLE FOR 5S or even 6S!!!

if you plan on flying more than 4S please check your ESC chips datasheet for voltage limits etc.

you had a lot of expensive stuff on there powered by some $20 mystery ESC

My first 20+ attempts to flash bs-nfet to F30A using the bent pin 6-pin header just gave the same high fuse error. So I carefully made up the other 6 pin flasher, which fit the pins better, and was easier position. Many more attempts with it still gave the same error. i must be doing something wrong. Suggestions please ...
PS: I verified the pins were leading to the proper HK USBasp 6-pin hole with a multimeter.

Originally Posted by rshep

My first 20+ attempts to flash bs-nfet to F30A using the bent pin 6-pin header just gave the same high fuse error. So I carefully made up the other 6 pin flasher, which fit the pins better, and was easier position. Many more attempts with it still gave the same error. i must be doing something wrong. Suggestions please ...

I know others were very successful with the technique you are trying to us but I ended up just soldering each wire to the pads. Flashing was over in a flash providing all of the connects were made. before removing the wires, I made sure the test the ESC were good.