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Sep 26, 2011, 11:17 AM
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Build Log

Cartoon ME-109 build log.

The cartoon Mustang Flew so well I had to design an adversary for it to play with.
The plane equal in size and weight so it uses all the same equipment is as the Cartoon Mustang and since the assembly is very close to the Mustang the instructions will sound like a copy. This way, if you built the cartoon mustang you have already built the Cartoon ME-109 There are a few small differences but nothing you can't squeak past. The cartoon Warbirds use inexpensive equipment and are small enough so you can toss it in the car for a little fun. The cartoon ME-109 It will not require shaping the foam sheets and yet not be "boxy" because of the formed plastic parts that I've made available on the website with the printed plans / patterns.
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Sep 26, 2011, 11:20 AM
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From what I can tell, watching the videos posted on the threads these "fatty planes" are typically a handful to fly.
The drag from the fuselage coupled with a flat airfoil might be the problem.

I went with Cartoon ME-109 title because the model is not as fat but skewed enough to "cartoon the model and allow me to exaggerate the features of a 109.
The model features an easy to build airfoil so the slow flying speeds will be more stable too.
The first one was built to develop and test the plastic part fit to the foam. The fit was not "fall on the frame" correct so I had to make a second one and now we have a good model to build and fly.
If you want to see the video it is embedded in the model description on the website.
Sep 26, 2011, 11:22 AM
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I have short kits available on the website now .
What you will get is the Plans and plastic parts listed on the site.
The plans would better be described as a pattern page since you don't actually build it over printed paper.
The plastic parts is what makes this model go together so fast , there is no foam forming required.
The materials you will need is
One sheet of 3mm foam and less than 1/8 sheet of 6mm
Gorilla glue ( polyurethane glue)
An Out runner motor that can spin a 8 inch prop at 1800 KV
Three cell 800mah battery
10 amp ESC
Two small servos and a receiver.
Hinge material and other pieces of hardware.

Before I start this construction thread you need to know that the plastic will and does feel flimsy. Try to get your mind out of the " tough bird" mode and into the light weight mode.
Throwing a feather at a solid object never hurts the feather. The foam frame will feel weak too but when you combine the two you get a very strong light weight airframe.
Sep 26, 2011, 11:23 AM
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Cartoon ME - 109 Construction.

To build the Cartoon 109 I started with the fuselage. I used spray adhesive to bond the patterns to card stock , About the thickness of large mail envelopes is about right.
I carefully cut the patterns out using scissors for the curved edges and a straight edge and hobby knife for the straight cuts. These straight cuts should be made on a smooth hard surface since you have to push down fairly hard; too hard for a craft cutting board.
Sep 26, 2011, 11:26 AM
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The hardest part about cutting the formers was keeping the knife 90 degrees to the building surface, it's not hard at all.
When you cut the 3mm side panels cut them at the same time. This ensures that they are identical. Before they are separated mark the former locations at the same time for the same reason. Note that the wing saddle curve has been oversized. This is to be sure there is material available for a perfect fit when the wing mates with the fuselage. To cut the saddle for some extra material I simply slid the pattern down 1/8inch when I cut that portion of the fuselage sides.
Sep 26, 2011, 11:36 AM
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Fuselage crutch

I started assembly with a former test fit. Each former notch is roughly 1/16 small on purpose this makes it necessary to bow the sides slightly to get the formers to fit in the notch. This snug fit allows assembly with a minimum amount of tape to hold it together. The servo mount plate and mid formers is the exception , there is a slight curve that will require come clamping tape while the glue dries.

Bond the fire wall in place and only tape the aft ends togeather for now.
add the formers from front to back and let it dry completly ( about 30 min works with the white gorilla glue )

There are other jobs you can be doing like trimming plastic parts or cutting wing parts.

Note: there has been a development in the firewall construction.
I have damaged two planes to a cartwheel.
They were gentle enough that it should not have hurt the plane.
When the prop shaft contacts the ground it pushes the motor stick inward.
This caused long cracks from the corners of the mounts and draws the sides inwards.
The models were still intact but has to be dissembled for repair.
So, On the back of F-1 and F-2 add a 3 inch disk, 6mm thick.
This should distribute the force and prevent damage.
Last edited by sparks; Jan 30, 2015 at 07:38 AM. Reason: AD
Sep 26, 2011, 12:23 PM
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ediaz's Avatar
My hats off to you Sparks! this is becoming a great series of birds. Will you be doing a P40 as well in the near future?


Sep 26, 2011, 01:40 PM
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Yes, the P-40 is on the "drawing Board"
I have one built and ready to test fly now.
After the "flight test program" the next step is to make any changes needed to make it fly as good as I can.
Then transfer any changes to the drawing and I'll be ready for the first production run.
Not to worry I'll post it here as well.
Sep 26, 2011, 02:47 PM
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Tsavah's Avatar

Me-109 and ...

Originally Posted by sparks
Yes, the P-40 is on the "drawing Board" ...
Wow! You sure can pump 'em out for us RC flyer nuts that like them fat and cartoony. This Me-109 build thread is looking good. I am also thinking I will love the P-40 thread when you get it going. You do sleep from time to time? I suppose my age is showing, lol.
Latest blog entry: Center of Gravity - Airplanes
Sep 26, 2011, 08:23 PM
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Keith you should think about naming this and the Stang RedTails ( no copyright infringement there ) Then when the movie comes out in january ,everyone googling will see you planes and sales will go through the roof
Sep 27, 2011, 09:54 AM
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Good Idea . . . . . however
The people that read the RC groups threads represent about 1 /10 of the modeling market and the guys that know about the thread make up a small fraction of that.
As it is now the models are rolling out quickly then there will be a slow down period.
As the models make it to the flying fields and you guys answer the question "where the heck did you get that?" it will pick up again X 10 .

It's you guys that keep the cost down on my parts , My advertizing budget is zero because of "word of mouth" and that is the best form of advertizing there is.

Thank You
Sep 29, 2011, 05:39 AM
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raipe's Avatar
Can't believe how cool these planes look
You really should make a Hurricane too. Would have some great scoops in it also for the plastics... Just a thought

Sep 29, 2011, 09:22 AM
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the wing

Keep in mind that you can still be working the fuselage while the wing is being assembled right up to the point of fitting the wing saddle

This wing construction method uses no ribs, as a weight saving measure the wing has several tapered spars that give it strength and the airfoil shape we need. The wing is built from the bottom sheeting up by using the pattern from the plans to lay out a 3mm sheet.
The spar locations are transferred from the pattern to the sheeting with a pen and straight edge .
Puncturing the plans with a throwing dart will make a hole for you to make the marks for the ends of the spars. Flip the plans over and use the same holes to make the marks on the other wing panel.
The spars are bonded with polyurethane glue to the bottom sheeting using weights for clamp pressure. Note. It is best to stack two sheets of 6mm while cutting the spars so each spar is identical. Also, the spars are longer than needed, this is to simplify cutting them from the 6mm sheet.
They are bonded with the widest end at the wing root. I know . . .duh
Sep 29, 2011, 09:26 AM
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The tops of the spars are square and will require light sanding to give them a curve so the top sheeting will not have humps on the surface. Using a sanding bar wide enough to bridge between the spars will help to ensure the angles blend between them.
Before you start sanding, mark the spars with a highlighter pen. this will help you keep track of your progress. Once you are finished sanding; place a strip of foam across the spars and check for gaps.
Small ones 1/8 or less are OK the glue will fill it for you
Sep 29, 2011, 09:31 AM
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wing tip

Unlike the Cartoon Mustang this model does not have a "block wing tip" so some special prep work is necessary. the tip will need the spars to be tapered to the tip and a small portion of the skin tp will need a bevel too.
Make sure the tips look about the same and you will be fine.

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