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Discussion
Sopwith Pup by Peter Rake/Manzano Laser Works
I just purchased the Rake Sopwith Pup kit got it in the mail from Manzano Laser Works, has 3 sheets of drawings, looking for information on motor and battery installation, servo installation, control rods and rigging, wing dihedral, can anyone send me some photos of what they have done with this kit to add power, battery and controls. Also, the prop size, will be using a E-flight 450 outrunner per Rake and thunder power 3C 2100mah LiPo. Any suggestions for covering material would also be appreciated.
I was doing some web searching and saw a 40" Sopwith Pup kit from Aerodrome, tried to find a web site could not, are they out of business? The reason I ask is the plans in the photos of the Aerodrome kit looked exactly like Peter Rake drawings on the Manzano kit but it looked like they had more detail, does anyone know anything about Aerodrome kits and plans? |
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Hey Captborg,
Welcome to RC Groups! If you use the search function and type in "Peter Rake pup", you'll get quite a few threads that no doubt have the answers you're looking for. Here's one of a full build, including a successful maiden flight: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...peter+rake+pup You can find Aerodrome RC's web site here: http://www.aerodromerc.com/ If you scroll down to the "S" section, you'll see that they carry two versions of a 40" span Pup. Steve |
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Rake Sopwith Pup
Thank you Steve85, appreciate the info. What is your opinion on building with a magnetic system, or do you have any suggestions for a pinable substrate for the build board. I have used Homasote, but it seems a little rough for such fine models. I have read threads where builders say they use gypsum wall board, any experience with that, really for these WW1 36 to 40 inch W.S. models what is the best approach?
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It is a definite choice.
Magnets. Weights. Pin board. Pin board can be a number of things. I've used the fiberglass type ceiling tiles, gypsum type and balsa. The balsa is best for me, but, I've got a pretty good supply of balsa All of them do the job for these smaller planes. I'd be inclined to go with a magnet board if it is feasible for you. Too many advantages with jigs and such. charlie |
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Hey man! Go Magnet board all the way. If you try one you will never look back to anything else. If you want to do it on the cheap, buy an appropriate length of galvanized steel from your local sheet metal fabricator & buy magnets in bulk from a magnent supplier on the web, you will get your building board & magnets WAY cheaper and they work just as well (I have both -- please don't ask why). There is also a string on RC groups (you will have to use the search feature as I didnt keep track of it) that shows how to set up homemade jigs that in some cases are actully better than the commercial sets.
Have fun with your Sopwith build! cw |
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This site: http://www.airfieldmodels.com/ is pretty decent for a few tips, as well as a good run-down of equipping yourself with a magnetic building board and such.
James |
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Magnet build board
Thank you
portablevcb, Carl'sbones, Deuce for the sound advice, I will pursue aquiring sheet metal and magnets and check out those message boards for hold down systems. |
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Magnet build board / P clamps -straps?
Ordered 1/16" thick 2'x4' galvanized sheet metal from onlinemetals.com, ordered magnets from Master Magnets, inc. ordered drafting triangles from draftingsteals.com, will use an array of the 30x60 degree acrylic drafting triangles modify and drill holes in them for the build fixtures, using the airfield models design, getting set up. Plan to use contact cement to glue the sheet metal to 2 layers of 2'x4'x3/4" baltic birch plywood that I got at home depot
Question, where does one find P clamps, or P straps for 1/16" thick piano wire? These are shown on the Rake plans and hold the top wing to the fuslage struts. I have searched the web diligently and can not find something this small. |
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I usually make my own. Thin brass about 3/8 to 1/2" wide. Bend in half over a 1/16" wire. Clamp in vise, then bend wire to one side. Drill hole for screw. I like my own better than the store bought ones.
Starting on post 159 there is a description: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=279688 charlie |
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P clamp, straps
I was planning to make my own if I could not find anything pre-manuf. Brass will work well. thanks for the advice. I have saved all the urls posted on the link you sent, good for hours and hours of browsing.
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Magnetic Board Fixture Protype, tinkering results
This fixture is made out of a 4" 30x60 drafting triangle with the top cut off. The holes at the bottom are per the Airfield models fixture design to bolt on the ceramic magnets, at the top is a 3/4" long piece of square brass tubing tacked in place with Medium CA and then wrapped with light fiberglass cloth (this is a sleeve for the screw arm). The top of the triangle was roughed up with sand paper and the fiberglass strap was flooded with thin CA. Note that a smaller square brass tube arm 3" long slides in and out of the sleeve tube attached to the triangle, once you set the fixture you can slide the arm in and out to locate as required. At one end of the smaller brass tube arm I soldered a thicker piece of plate inside the tube (tinned both pieces first) then drilled and tapped the end at 4-40, used 4-40 continuous threaded rod
3" long for the thumb screw, thumb knob is two 4-40 nylon lock nuts back to back. This is a very light fixture less bulky and I think good for doing these light scale planes like the Rake Sopwith Pup. I plane to make a series of these in 2" increments. The one in the photo is 2-7/8" high to the top of the sleeve. |
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There will be 4 ceramic type magnets bolted to the bottom thru the holes. The magnets will hold it secure to a metal build board and you use the fixture as a clamp to hold parts down the build board while glue sets up. This is a magnetic building method, no tee pins. Check out some other threads on magnetic build boards and methods, http://www.airfieldmodels.com/ This is my version or thier build fixture.
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