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Old Sep 23, 2011, 08:39 AM
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Discussion

Viking 2 ESR build log


(ESR = Electric Super Race)

Hi, thought i would open a blog rather then start a thread on this build.

The goal; build and fly a modern F3F/B with full competition F5B drive system.

This is not going to be another one of those lame electric conversions but instead this is going to be fast and furious. No compromise on the drive system. I won't be covering every single little detail of the build. Just some things that i am doing differently.

Parts list as it stands;

Viking 2 E Race (thanks Martin and Jiri)
4x Futaba S3150
2x JR DS285 MG (thanks Richard)
Hacker B50 special 67mm long 6 wind 3400KV with 6.7:1 gearbox
CC P180 fully George modified
Extra capacitor bank
Overlander Extreme 6S 5000mah 60C

I will add bits as i go along.

Feel free to comment on how crazy i am.

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Old Sep 23, 2011, 08:57 AM
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First of all, where to fit those battery packs?!

Well i have finally settled on putting them inside the wing. Yeah that's right. He said in the wing..... crazy!

After long and hard thinking i settled on 6S 5000mah with 3S in each wing half. The Overland cells have the tabs on each end of the cell and so you can just unfold a 3S pack to make a very long single cell thick pack. You then have to replace the wires to bring the electrons into the fuselage.

According to this page; http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/aw...uge-d_731.html

The cross sectional area of 10 AWG wire is 5.26mm^2. So i have chosen to use 2x 2mm diameter laquer coated copper wire as used for winding big electric motors. The 2mm copper wire should have a cross sectional area of about 3.2mm^ each, making a total of 6.4mm^2, very close to 9 AWG wire infact. I think 8 AWG would be overkill, in F5B we only use 10 AWG and we have even used 12 AWG.

The first pack is more or less done, as is the hole in the wing. I'll make some more detail pics when i do the other half.
Old Sep 23, 2011, 11:36 AM
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One Idiot is plenty...
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Neat work Joe.
Please post all the pix of it.You wont regret it in the future
Yuri.
Old Sep 29, 2011, 02:42 PM
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Looking good!

Who wouldn't want two or three of those?!!
Old Sep 30, 2011, 10:22 AM
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Thanks guys!!

Slow progress, i've put the servo's in to the tail and set up the programming. Only a slight departure here in what the others have done so far.

My servo's are not screwed on a tray but instead i have just glued them in place. They are CA'd to a piece of ply, then the mounting lugs are strapped down with Kevlar thread again with CA and finally the whole assembly is glued in against the fuselage side with plenty of epoxy / micro balloon / thickening agent mix. Take care to full press the servo's down and keep them down while curing so the cover fits over the top later.

If a servo breaks it's no different then if one breaks in the wing, you just have to cut it out and start again. In this case you can easely put a sharpened screw driver into the ply.

Best of all..... the cover fits no problem.
Old Sep 30, 2011, 10:53 AM
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Did you do anything special to keep the CAbfrom migrating into the servo case?
Old Sep 30, 2011, 12:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by epwierman View Post
Did you do anything special to keep the CAbfrom migrating into the servo case?
No not really. Didn't apply much CA when i put the servo's on to the ply.

They seem to work still, so must have been lucky?
Old Sep 30, 2011, 01:25 PM
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I think the medium and thick are less prone to the migration into the case.

Nice looking job.

Can't wait to see more.
Old Sep 30, 2011, 03:33 PM
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Yup, i used thick gap filling CA.

Waiting on some heatschrink with the right diameter for the main packs. Ordered it off e-bay but it's coming from China so it will be a while.

Just working on the wing servo's now. Managed to break one of the clevises that came with the plane. It didn't want to go into the brass horn and then the pin snapped off. Took me a while to dremel the remains out without enlarging the hole to much. Nerve wrecking experiance but got away with it without to much hanger rash. Wish those brass horns where not glued in there yet, so i could have just installed my own fibreglass horns like we do in F5B.

In the pics you can see the flap servo before gluing in and the horn length i decided on for the flaps (one in use) and the ailerons (one still needs drilling). For the flaps i am actually using the first hole that is already there on the supplied big 4 way horn, there is enough room in the wing and this way i get nearly 90 degrees flap down. For the ailerons i am drilling my own close in on the 2 way horn, don't need much travel here.

Does Jiri do RDS?
Last edited by jjmouris; Sep 30, 2011 at 04:00 PM.
Old Sep 30, 2011, 07:10 PM
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Eric said more pics.....

Here's the aileron servo wired up.

Old Oct 28, 2011, 07:33 PM
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TonyB
Excellent build Joe plus highly innovative design choice having the flight battery in the wing!
No Major C of G problems I guess.
Can't wait to have a Viking 1 & Viking 2 maiden flight day in Fareham/Titchfield.
My original Viking Mk 1 E is now ready to go!
Old Jan 06, 2012, 01:53 PM
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Sure it'll work
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Did the build stop?
Old Jan 07, 2012, 11:45 AM
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Wings are ready but i have been taking it easy.
Old Jan 21, 2012, 04:19 PM
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Is it Your first 3M Joe?
Yuri
Old Jan 21, 2012, 07:46 PM
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Yes.

I should get her in their air soon but just have not been motivated.



By the way, in the mean time i did get some RX packs in. Either a single 2S 800mah Lipo pack or i may put two of those in.

Last edited by jjmouris; Jan 21, 2012 at 07:54 PM.

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