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Sep 27, 2011, 03:11 PM
Registered User
Mark Miller's Avatar
Now you all can see why I went with the 1" TE stock. There is not much to the back of this airfoil. With 3/4" it would break easily. Looking back while this airfoil has specs as good or better than any RES airfoil out there currently including the Drelas it may be better suited to and was designed for the Ava/Soprano type construction.

My hope is to get some custom cut TE stock that will fit better and so less planing and sanding.
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Oct 10, 2011, 09:56 AM
Hot Dawg Glider Pilot
schrederman's Avatar
I've been out of pocket for a week attending a dog and pony show... (staff meeting)... and then had VIP company all weekend... (grandson)... I'll be hittin' it again tonight!
Oct 10, 2011, 10:29 PM
Wood Chucker
Lacquerhead's Avatar
Would custom cut TE compare favorably against something like CF prelam? It seems to me that I've seen a lot of rubber FF models using prelam as TE material recently but that's not a community I'm involved in.
Oct 11, 2011, 02:01 PM
Registered User
Mark Miller's Avatar
A CF TE would be great but remember that this is a beginner to intermediate design. This necessitates keeping cost down and assembly basic.
Oct 17, 2011, 08:54 AM
Hot Dawg Glider Pilot
schrederman's Avatar
OK... I have actually done some work on the Duet. I'll be posting some pics and narratives tonight... I'm at the salt pit right now...
Oct 17, 2011, 12:25 PM
Wood Chucker
Lacquerhead's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Miller View Post
A CF TE would be great but remember that this is a beginner to intermediate design. This necessitates keeping cost down and assembly basic.
Would it be possible for an ambitious fabricator to replace the TE with laminated CF? I don't know that I'm actually that ambitious but I might experiment on another model to see if its worth the effort.
Oct 17, 2011, 08:47 PM
Hot Dawg Glider Pilot
schrederman's Avatar
OK... so here we go again. I have joined the center panels and added the upper sheeting and leading edges. So far so good. I'm going to upload pictures without much narrative. There'll be some labeling, etc... but I'm curious as to what and how many questions I'll get.
Oct 17, 2011, 09:01 PM
Hot Dawg Glider Pilot
schrederman's Avatar
Last installment for tonight... and probably until next weekend. You know... that nasty 4-letter word... WORK!

I hope you 2-meter lovers will take the last caption as the funny it was intended...
Oct 17, 2011, 09:16 PM
Wood Chucker
Lacquerhead's Avatar
Nicely done work Jack. So far, beautiful. I noticed the backing plate on the center joiner is beveled at the edges. Is there a mechanical reason for that or just personal preference?
Oct 17, 2011, 11:04 PM
Hot Dawg Glider Pilot
schrederman's Avatar
The edges are scarfed out to feather edge to prevent a stress point. It's proven to help some, but probably more for my peace of mind than anything...
Oct 19, 2011, 08:19 AM
Hot Dawg Glider Pilot
schrederman's Avatar
I started on the fuselage last night. I just started by gluing the sides together and trial fitting parts. Two of the bulkheads get glued together to form one, and that's done. I glued the sides together, one on top of the other, with waxed paper in between, so they would be perfectly aligned with each other. I'll take a few pics tonight and post 'em... I'll be laminating the 1/64" ply nose doublers in place with polyurethane glue or thinned wood glue this evening... depending on the temperature in my garage. I haven't broken out the heater, yet, but it may be time to do that...
Oct 19, 2011, 08:46 AM
The King Moonracer of balsa.
Windependence's Avatar
Hi Jack, looking good so far. If you can, would you demonstrate how you get the bottom leading edge sheeting to glue to the curved ribs? That was always something that vexed me when I was a beginner builder.

Wayne
Oct 19, 2011, 10:25 AM
Registered User
stephen.s1's Avatar
Why do you dilute Titebond?
Oct 19, 2011, 10:40 AM
Hot Dawg Glider Pilot
schrederman's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by stephen.s1 View Post
Why do you dilute Titebond?
It soaks in better and I actually use 1/3 less glue in each joint. It also slows my drying time somewhat. That's not important in areas where the humidity is high. But on the desert high plains, where the humidity is generally less that 20%, without dilution, Titebond scabs over in less than a minute.


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