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Old Sep 13, 2011, 12:07 AM
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Well, as expected, my Lil Satan kit was waiting for me at the office. Looks like a very nice and complete kit.

I am checking out engine options and it looks like a Tee Dee with a beam to radial adapter weighs about 1/2 oz less then a Golden Bee.... But the scale I am using s rather coarse, so I need to check it on a more accurate scale.

I really would like to eliminate the nacelle for the mount and just have beams. These look interesting for that purpose.

I just ordered bits and pieces for bladder tanks from texastimers.com because they had everything needed.

Why don't you want to put the tank in the wing, Rusty? I am thinking a piece of plastic tubing about 1/2" i.d. Glued into the wing between the bell crank and the first outboard rib from there to hold the bladder.

I am resisting going out to the shop and cleaning off the bench to start gluing up the wing.... But I already have a lot on my plate. I'll wait until I get the bladder bits and think about the mount. I have 3 of the common beam to radial adapters - 2 metal and one glass filled plastic, but for some reason, I just would rather do a conventional mount.
Last edited by CZ10; Sep 13, 2011 at 12:27 AM.
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Old Sep 13, 2011, 12:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RknRusty View Post

Then what? I haven't found a how-to yet, but here is what I imagine:
  1. Close needle valve
  2. fill the tube with a syringe
  3. pinch it off with enough fuel on the engine side of the clamp for starting
  4. crank the engine
  5. remove the clamp
  6. fly plane.
Is it that easy?
Sound right except for #1. Once you get it set, you should not have to change the NV setting unless there is maybe a significant change in the weather that would affect the setting. Look at the Texastimers site on how they set up a tank with a T fitting and check valve for filling. Also, the engine starts on a prime then you release the hemostat.

Darn... I just remembered I forgot to order a fine thread NV Assy. for my Tee Dee from them. Oh, well. Maybe I'll try calling or email to see if I can add it on.
Last edited by CZ10; Sep 13, 2011 at 12:27 AM.
Old Sep 13, 2011, 11:16 AM
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Will fly for food
A full bladder is very sensitive to being broken.

The standard way was to put a piece of model rocket body tube in the wing. A large hole on top side for the bladder to be slipped into the tube and the fuel line to come out to the engine, and a small hole at the far end on teh bottom to let the fuel run out when the bladder breaks.

As has been mentioned, you set the needle valve and leave it alone. And you do need to prime, once the engine starts on the prime, you release the clamp (or a helper does that).

Oh, and the bladder is filled IN the tube, not filled outside and inserted. That is sure to break it.
Old Sep 13, 2011, 11:33 AM
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1/2a


These bladder tanks will work anyware you put them. Once you use then its easy. Hemostat or small older type line connector for 1/2A to stop fuel flow till ready to start. Stunthanger had artical on AP Wasp .061 and how to convert carb to UC. This way you will not need to buy parts for conversion.

Dan
Old Sep 13, 2011, 11:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pinecone View Post
A full bladder is very sensitive to being broken.

The standard way was to put a piece of model rocket body tube in the wing. A large hole on top side for the bladder to be slipped into the tube and the fuel line to come out to the engine, and a small hole at the far end on teh bottom to let the fuel run out when the bladder breaks.

As has been mentioned, you set the needle valve and leave it alone. And you do need to prime, once the engine starts on the prime, you release the clamp (or a helper does that).

Oh, and the bladder is filled IN the tube, not filled outside and inserted. That is sure to break it.

That's along the lines I was thinking. I'll checkout the rocket tubes next trip to the HS, which should be in the next day or so.

On Voodoos with a .35 and pacifier, we used a plastic baseball glued into the wing. I wonder if ping-pong balls are fuel proof. Seems just the right size for 1/2A.
Old Sep 13, 2011, 12:16 PM
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This sounds like something I'm going to like.

About the needle valve; I understand now, there is no pressure to the feed line until after the engine is already running on the prime. If it shuts off after unclamping, you just have to be quick to clamp it off again or fuel will be squirting out of the air intake behind the spraybar(talking reedie here for now). I just have to have the plane restrained so I have both hands free.

And I see what y'all mean about putting the bladder in the wing. I didn't realize you contain it in a tube to protect from soaking the skeleton if it bursts in there.

My twisted wing straightened itself out almost all the way, hanging on a hook in the hot and humid shop.

Got the surgery I mentioned on my fingers this morning. I was making the corner gussets for the wings with no feeling in one hand. That was a pain in the axe. After the feeling comes back I can hopefully get some work done.


Check out my post in the Best Building Tip thread.
Last edited by RknRusty; Sep 13, 2011 at 01:26 PM.
Old Sep 13, 2011, 03:09 PM
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Will fly for food
Another trick is to hold the airplane so the engine is inverted. That way, if it stops running, the fuel spraying out, runs out of the engine rather than into it.
Old Sep 14, 2011, 12:11 PM
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Regarding my learning curve; making parts is harder than it looks. Kit building will lull you into a false sense of skill. I'm having to make a lot more than I realized I would. That's a good thing.
That is all.
Old Sep 14, 2011, 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by RknRusty View Post
Regarding my learning curve; making parts is harder than it looks. Kit building will lull you into a false sense of skill. I'm having to make a lot more than I realized I would.
You should have been building in the stick and tissue days --- cutting and fitting consumed a lot of time. The upside was while waiting for the Ambroid to dry, you could be cutting and fitting the layup for another side, wing, stab, etc.

If you did have a kit, it usually consisted of literally sticks and maybe some printwood.
Old Sep 14, 2011, 12:50 PM
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Take Care here...
a bladder full of 25/30% Nitro glo fuel WILL blind you if it sprays in your eye (s)
Yes! it's happened ..wear decent safety Goggles, regardless of how Dorky it makes you seem.

Stick 'n tissue? Geez! Can't even remember how many finger cuts resulted from the DIY broken in half Gillette razor blades. Ambroid fumes were 'entertaining' too :-)
Old Sep 14, 2011, 05:56 PM
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Plane


The caution on hi-nitro fuel is real. Wear saftey glasses or shooting goggles.
They don't look to bad and will keep your eyes in good shape.
Gillette blades/ sticks/ Ambroid Wow !! I got cut a few times, but learned to build. Anybody remember Berkeley kits?
Old Sep 14, 2011, 06:17 PM
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Anybody remember Berkeley kits?
AHC (America's Hobby Center) usually ran a large ad in Model Airplane News with Berkeley kits being included. One of the kits that impressed me was the Privateer, a 60" span seaplane --- beautiful lines; kit price was $7.95 .
Old Sep 14, 2011, 07:26 PM
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FYI on Safety glasses. Duluth Trading Co has cheater safety sunglasses
Old Sep 14, 2011, 09:05 PM
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I was going to mention the safety glasses too. A lot of pressure in that bladder just waiting to squirt you in the eye. Regarding cuts. When I was a teenager I was building a Guillow's Spitfire model. Something rolled off the edge of the table and I instinctively closed my legs together in an effort to catch whatever it was that fell. Unfortunately what fell was my X-acto knife with a #11 blade in it. I captured it perfectly between my thighs. I spread my legs back apart but the knife didn't fall. I had buried the blade into my leg right up to the handle. I pulled it out and inspected the damage. It wasn't bleeding really, but I could see the fat under the skin. After showing my mom we ended up just putting a band-aid on it and calling it good. It didn't really hurt much. I guess the blade was sharp.
Old Sep 14, 2011, 10:06 PM
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Originally Posted by GliderJim View Post
...I guess the blade was sharp.
And clean.
I ground a flat on the side of mine and glued a small rectangle of basswood to it so it won't roll. I got that idea from somewhere buried in the "Best Building Tip" thread. I forgot exactly how he did it, but same difference.


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