Originally Posted by reddogsr

Getting back to the speaker size and weight thing.....There are some small ones out there that do the job, here are a few examples:

What do you think?

Can you tell us the manufacturer, part number, power handling capacity, sensitivity and frequency response of the speakers used in these videos please? Thanks.

Fellas, What can I expect on "run times" with my 6S 65C"Pete's series" 4500mah packs?

6-7 mins?? (moderate throttle control)

I think 7-8 minutes on moderate power sounds about right. 7 minutes to be safe, 8 minutes to push it a bit but still some power left.

Nforbeesrc99:

Do you have flaps enabled in the "wing type" menu. Hold down roller while powering up the dx7 to access setup menu.

I get six minutes eady with 20% reserve on my GensAce 40c 4000mah 6s.

Originally Posted by jdm2ner

hey guys i was thinking of making more of the transport cradle and sale them hear what do you guys thing and how man would be interested?

I'd be interested.

Originally Posted by TFOA

I get six minutes eady with 20% reserve on my GensAce 40c 4000mah 6s.

that's about what I get also, with the same battery and the prop mod. Try it, with that battery she hauls vs my other 4000mah lipos.

Originally Posted by TFOA

Nforbeesrc99:

Do you have flaps enabled in the "wing type" menu. Hold down roller while powering up the dx7 to access setup menu.

Yeah. I do. LOL I know how to use the setup menu

Oh, and I use 5000 mah and get around 8 minutes with a good amount of power to spare. I had to cut out some foam from the nose, but the plane balances PERFECTLY with that battery. It's the Turnigy 5000 MAH 6s 20c.

Originally Posted by nforbesrc99

Yeah. I do. LOL I know how to use the setup menu

Oh, and I use 5000 mah and get around 8 minutes with a good amount of power to spare. I had to cut out some foam from the nose, but the plane balances PERFECTLY with that battery. It's the Turnigy 5000 MAH 6s 20c.

20c? Seems low for this setup

Probably why it gets 8mins.....
Power limited by IR.
And "good amount of power to spare" is a relative term, not a measurement of anything concrete - so it could mean "a lot slower than people with 40C or 65C".

As long as the 20C isn't running hot, and the plane is flying well for the user, then all is fine.
You can often find a sweet spot battery, low cost low C, that all the numbers/result balance out nicely for what you want the plane to do..... and save a lot of money on the batteries then - as long as they ARE truly operating in a good heat area for them to survive.
I would still want the numbers to show the WOT current used is 0.75 or less of the battery "capability". eg 5000mAH 20C = 100 Amps in this case... so no more than 75 Amps ever called on. And even nicer is if you have 2x the current leeway - but not by just getting the largest C you can, but by the right value C to achieve that balance in that plane's setup. (eg might need 30C, or just 25C, to achieve that)

I've checked with FMS direct and have been told clipping of the red esc wire is not necessary.

Originally Posted by Kev71H

I'm awaiting the answer to this myself.

Originally Posted by dmyers0403

Yes, as the other guys said. I was incorrect. Just now clipped my red wire from ESC but did so using an extension lead, again as one of the guys diagramed.
I have flown mine unclipped but was probably lucky to get by with it.
FMS ESC manual clearly shows to clip red wire unless you have a OPTO ESC which we do not.

I cannot find where my FMS ESC manual says to clip the red wire. I cannot find a date of publication but, I purchased mine from BH in September. I also seem to recall earlier posts saying that it is not necessary to cut it, just plug the connector into an open receiver slot. It seems to be working fine but, if I am tempting fate, I would rather not. Input?

Aaron

Originally Posted by twiztidbowler

Your going to blow something up running it that way

Why is that? Would you have the same problem if you plugged it into any open receiver port (other) than battery?

Thanks,

Aaron

They manual may not say to clip the wire, but it also doesn't say a lot of things. It just makes sense to clip it as it is silly to have two power sources (ESC & BEC).

My understanding is IF it is NOT a OPTO....CLIP/dissable/dissable with a servo extension...etc.

but what do I know.....

UBEC Info from Headsuprc.com
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Special note:
If the ESC being used has a built in BEC, that BEC must be disabled when using a UBEC, as you should have only one power source providing power to the receiver. To disable the BEC of an ESC, simply disconnect the red wire on the receiver plug of the ESC. In the picture above, we have added an extension between the ESC and receiver, and we have disconnected the red wire on the extension.
If you are certain that your ESC does not have a built in BEC, then do not disconnect the red wire of the receiver plug of the ESC (if it has one). Most ESCs that do not have a built-in BEC say OPTO somewhere on the label.