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Old Apr 07, 2012, 11:21 PM
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man that looks reallly good..I wish mine was as scale as yours...but I will work with it!
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Old Apr 07, 2012, 11:25 PM
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amazing!
Old Apr 12, 2012, 06:38 PM
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Ilkka...... Your cladding work is excellent but I wouldn't expect anything less from you I will be trying my hand at this w/ my Mossie, The one thing I haven't been able to find is the litho plate!
But you know me I have found some house hold thing that is about the same, but would still like to know where to get this stuff here in the USA so if any body knows I would appreciate any help on this.
I didn't think they still used this kind of thing any more w/ laser printing and all. so Ilkka keep up the good work can't wait to see some finish go on the plane or your technique for panel lines and rivets.

Bruce
Old Apr 13, 2012, 12:07 AM
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Thanks Bruce for following my build.

Litho plate was never used in laser printing. It is a part of offset printing technique. The print shop needs one litho sheet for every print layout and it cannot be used twice. Used litho plates are waste material and they will end up in metal recycling.

The printing side of the sheet is finished with matte material (with the printed image on it). CA and epoxy stick onto it like nothing.

So you should locate an offset print shop to get some of their garbage.

ilkka
Old Apr 13, 2012, 12:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by I. Klemetti View Post
Thanks Bruce for following my build.

Litho plate was never used in laser printing. It is a part of offset printing technique. The print shop needs one litho sheet for every print layout and it cannot be used twice. Used litho plates are waste material and they will end up in metal recycling.

The printing side of the sheet is finished with matte material (with the printed image on it). CA and epoxy stick onto it like nothing.

So you should locate an offset print shop to get some of their garbage.

ilkka
ilkka ... what I ment to say was that they do not do offset printing any more because of the laser printing. I use to be an engraver for a printing company
many years ago.

Bruce
Old Apr 13, 2012, 01:21 AM
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If the printing world is going digital I better visit the nearby offset print shop today and grab a bunch of litho plates for the rest of my life.

ilkka
Old Apr 14, 2012, 01:50 PM
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I am in trouble with the gear doors. Planking the nacelles buried some internal stresses in the structure. Although I glassed the nacelle outside, the stresses were released when I cut the doors and warped the doors. I then attached the rear doors to a jig and glassed the insides. Still they don't fit. I am now so frustrated by the warped doors. I don't know how I'll ever get them fit smoothly.

Earlier I had cut the rear door separating cut incorrectly along the nacelle center line. The intended cut line was 1 in. on the outboard side of the CL. So I had to glue the door halves back together

I am more happy with the B-station gun positions.

ilkka
Last edited by I. Klemetti; Apr 14, 2012 at 04:19 PM.
Old Apr 14, 2012, 02:05 PM
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ilkka... can you make a ply rib the correct shape forward and aft to help the door hold it's shape it may not be scale but maybe practical just a thought this may not be where your having trouble but if you need any more suggestions I be looking in. Your aft gun stations look great.
Old Apr 14, 2012, 04:06 PM
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Fit or no fit...that is one exceptional model you have there....really some work to be proud of
Old Apr 14, 2012, 04:42 PM
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I can always follow your build threads, Bruce and LuftM40, and admire your well fitting parts and imagine myself how it would feel to get things right.

After I get over this dead-end-feeling I might try following:
  • Hinge the doors.
  • Try to get them fit with some internal bracing
  • Fill low edges with balsa and sand smooth.

(Hey, doesn't it clear your thoughts if you write them down.)

ilkka
Old Apr 14, 2012, 10:10 PM
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I got very good results for fitted panels by making them out of glass on top of the form before cutting anything out. Just laid up the glass on top after tracing the exact opening on the wood. Then when the glass cures it is an exact shape, so the cut out pieces of wood can be discarded and the glass used for the doors... Bit late I know...
Old May 12, 2012, 01:04 PM
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Not too late, Gree, if you use foam and use the foam as an integral part of the structure.

So I filled the door openings with foam and carved to shape. Then I glassed the door areas plus some of the surroundings. After cutting the doors open I carved them to about 3 mm (1/6 in.) thickness with thin edges and glassed the insides, too. This resulted to a very stiff structure. And best of all: no warpage.

The mechanisms are yet to be designed. The rear door are open only when the gear is on its way up or down. The front doors remain open when the gear is down.

ilkka
Old May 12, 2012, 02:47 PM
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Great work Ilkka...fantastic come back.. You should show a close up photo of your hinges you did what looks to be a very good job on those also.

Bruce
Old May 12, 2012, 03:30 PM
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Bruce, see pictures in post #112 for hinge details. The slotted blocks are from scrapped furniture, birch maybe. Now the hinge blocks are just glued to the nacelle inner balsa surface. Later I'll drill holes to the blocks from outside through the glassed balsa sheeting and glue metal head pins in the holes. The pin heads might look like rivets

ilkka
Old May 12, 2012, 03:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by I. Klemetti View Post
Bruce, see pictures in post #112 for hinge details. The slotted blocks are from scrapped furniture, birch maybe. Now the hinge blocks are just glued to the nacelle inner balsa surface. Later I'll drill holes to the blocks from outside through the glassed balsa sheeting and glue metal head pins in the holes. The pin heads might look like rivets

ilkka
ilkka ..I saw those I meant a close up installed so we can see how they will function looks very simple but that's usually the best way!

Bruce


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