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Aug 30, 2011, 06:20 PM
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Build Log

Sterling B-15M Chris Craft Corvette


Hello all,

Starting a new build thread for the Sterling 42' Corvette. I have been working off and on for a few years and recently decided to go full speed ahead. At the time when I framed up the hull I wasn't aware of the MACK products for power and running gear. Consequently I have had to do some work arounds to reinforce the shaft log areas (different shaft angle). Thanks to 42Corvette and FrankG I know what to do now. Not real pretty but it will be covered up later. I have left the bow planking and side sheeting untrimmed to protect the edges from hanger rash (handling) until I'm ready to sheet the bottom. I know the instructions say to sheet the bottom before installing the running gear but for me it is much easier to dry fit the running gear and confirm everything will work dimensionally before I button it up. I have checked for longitudinal twist with levels fore and aft and all is still right on. With the heavy reinforcing I think I will be OK. Also included a pic of the build fixture I used to frame the hull. The keel fits in the center blocks and frame F9 sits on support blocks. In the pic the bow won't sit down in the blocks because I installed a lower bow plank. The 3/4 plywood base serves as a surface plate to align and locate the frames, chines and sheers. Anyway here are the pics and look foeward to your inputs. Much more to come.
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Sep 05, 2011, 09:34 AM
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CaptCB's Avatar

TO: 61 Thompson


The reason they say (and I agree) that you fully finish the hull BEFORE installing the shafts and rudders, is because until then the hull shape can still creep (change). The instructions that come with MOST of these, where written by very skilled modelers. They may have tried several things, before coming to there recamendations. So unless you are a very experienced builder, I would tend to listen. Happy Building CB
Sep 05, 2011, 06:04 PM
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Hello CaptCB,

I appreciate the advice. I only dry fitted the running gear and all worked out good. I'm now starting to sheet the bottom. Pics to follow. I won't install the running gear or rudders until all bottom sheeting and bow planking is complete. This early stage of the build is probably pretty boring to the experienced modelers but I appreciate the feed back.

61thompson
Sep 06, 2011, 04:06 PM
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Hello all,

Did some more on the Corvette today. The following pics show the port stuffing box trench completed and viewed from the top looking directly down and from the bottom up (worms eye view). Also shown are the 1/4" doublers in the transom area to reinf. the rudder stuffing boxes. I will do the same on the under side. Unfortunately this area was already built before I got FrankG's instructions from 42Corvette. Oh well no big deal. The last pic is of the bottom skin with the chamfer on the outboard edge to fit snug against the side sheeting. I know this is boring for you experienced guys but maybe someone will find some interest. Next step is to skin the port side bottom.

Paul
Sep 06, 2011, 04:21 PM
GILL
GILL RC's Avatar
I just had a customer that wanted the MACK drives pulled and replaced with twin 900's The boat runs faster and longer on the same 12 volt 7 amp gel cell.
I just did 2 Corvettes for the same customer both look and run great.
I did one 8 months ago with twin 800's.
Sep 14, 2011, 03:25 PM
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Finally got back to work on the Corvette. Finished sheeting the port bottom. Now on the the starboard. I know this is like watching paint dry for you experienced builders but I will keep pressing on.
Sep 14, 2011, 05:30 PM
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The MACK Products power package for the Sterling Chris Craft Corvette does not use direct drive motors. The set up in the boat that John Gill had must have been put together by the customer. The Power Package uses two Model #2041-20 motor-gear box units and swings Octura #1250 left and right hand props (2 diameter).
Sep 23, 2011, 05:53 PM
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Well have not done much due to family demands and getting my SeaRay ready for haulout. One pic shows the 1/8" bass wood doublers for attaching the struts. Want to give the screws lots of meat to bite into. The other pic is attempting to show the gap filling that was done on all the frame to chine, keel and shear joints. During initial construction the frames were balanced up/down left to right with a make shift height gage, tacked in place then any gaps filled with scrap and re glued. Before planking, all frames were checked for fair, scrap wood added to edges if low then sanded to fair the entire surface. It took lots of time but the results are paying off in a very smooth, symetrical and true hull.
Sep 23, 2011, 06:00 PM
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Nice, clean build so far, 61Thompson! keep up the great work!
Oct 25, 2011, 04:27 PM
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Well finally got some work done on the Corvette. I think I mentioned I'm a SLOW builder. Anyway got the starboard bottom sheeted, carved the starboard shaft log trench and added bass wood reinforcements for strut mounting screws. Also dry fitted the running gear. See attached pics. Next, finish bottom planking in forward lower bow area, overall sanding, fairing and epoxy coating inside and out. Also would like some opinions on using a final coat of satin polyurethane on the exposed mahogony to tone down the gloss and give it a satin look. To my taste the varnish (Epiphanes) is too glossy on a model and not realistic???
Oct 26, 2011, 11:30 AM
GILL
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Sorry Rich Your Mack drives Model #2041-20 were the ones that were removed and replaced with the 900's. The shafts and props stayed the same. The model is now direct drive.
Personaly I install 800's direct drive running 4mm shafts and 3 blade Rivebo 40mm props.
Oct 31, 2011, 05:53 PM
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Working on the lower bow planking. That first plank next to the keel is a fun one. The angle and twist required to meet the forward bulkhead is quite severe and doesn't follow the shape of the keel. Long story short I cut relief notches in the forward portion and glued it following the keel shape. I then skipped a plank and continued with the third plank. That left a gap which I filled with a shaped two piece filler. The one pic shows the port side with a partial filler plank. I sistered one of the frames to support the aft end of the front filler piece. The other pic shows the completed fillers with a light coat of Hobbylite. I used 1/4 balsa for the filler and then carved to shape.
Nov 17, 2011, 08:10 PM
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Finally finished planking bow lower bow. Some of those sticks really have to bend three ways from Tuesday. Anyway brushing on a little water and using thin super glue; it worked out. The pics show port and starboard planking with first lite coat of filler. Also installed the upper starboard bow block. It was a little short so I added a 1/4 " piece to completely fill out the space. Also shown is an accommodation for a bow light wire chase. I will install plastic tubing in the frame holes to form the wire chase. The other bow blocks don't fit too well and will require some spacers. No big deal just time.
Dec 15, 2011, 04:47 PM
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Well back at it again after my wife's knee replacement surgery and road to recovery.

The first pic shows a mock up the MACK motor/gear box (I think number is 2140-20) and the proposed motor mount scheme. The motor mock up simulates the drive shaft to mounting base relationship. It is connected to the prop shaft with a snug fitting tube. I was concerned that the motor mounting would be too low in the hull to allow room for mounting screws for the motor. As luck would have it using 1/2 by 1/2 Sq. fore aft stringers tied together with 1/4 x 1/2 ties creates a nice square box and a constant plane (read distance) to the motor mounting bracket on both ends. It also provides enough meat for the screws to bite into. Now all I have to deal with is the fore/aft angle of the motor mounting plate to the stringers on both ends. I will handle that issue with 1/2" wide wedges when I install the real hardware. So far I have proved this scheme out on the port side so I will do the same on the starboard to make sure I get the same result. Shown in the pic is balsa but after prove out I will use bass wood. I was thinking maple but I think it's over kill for electric motors.

The second pic shows the cut out on the port side for the rudder tiller arm and linkage. Need to do the starboard side and then cut a slot across to clear the drag link. I located the rudders aft of frame F-14 for a more scale appearance. It's a little tight but I think it will work out OK. Also installed the bow blocks and now need to do lots of sanding/filling etc. Waiting for better weather to do it outside.
Dec 27, 2011, 04:51 PM
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A little more progress on the Corvette. Pic #1 shows the dog bone cutout in F-14& 14B for clearance of the rudder linkage. Pic #2 shows the corrosponding cut out in the transom frames. I guess my next step is to touch up any glued surfaces that I missed on the inside of the hull and then give it a couple of coats of Z-Poxy. After that it sanding time. I'm trying to wait as long as I can to avoid getting dust all over the house. Maybe I'll start working on the fwd. deck. I need to make a pattern that fits the hull better. The one one the kit is poor quality wood (knots) and short to the hull. I plan to use 1/16" aircraft ply for a sub deck and lay 1/16" x 3/16" bass wood strips seperated by black PVC strips simulating deck calking. The two layers of 1/16" material will build the deck back to the kit design thickness of 1/8". Maybe will do the cat walks the same way


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