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Old Dec 27, 2012, 08:50 PM
LittleMo is offline
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Originally Posted by Hajile View Post
Just a question. Even tho the polarities are swapped on the connectors, the colors still correspond to the polarity, right?
Yep. Just match black with black and red with red.

It's pretty easy to push the tab down and pull the pins out of the connector on the battery for swapping.

I wrap a bit of tape around the end of the battery to make it fit tight in the Genius tray. Like this:
Last edited by LittleMo; Dec 27, 2012 at 09:01 PM.
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Old Dec 27, 2012, 08:54 PM
Jimbo45cn is offline
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Originally Posted by LittleMo View Post
Too bad about the V911 motors. The brushes must be weaker. I noticed on my V911 the fingers on the brush had actually broken off. I might still try it myself on the GCP but it doesn't sound like it's going to work.

I do wonder about the servo saver eventually wearing out the teeth on the horn or servo but I guess it's better than breaking the gears. I haven't had any issues with it so far.

How long did your Genius motors last? I'm right around 50 flights of 7-8 minutes off my 300 mAh nano-tech batteries and I have been wondering about the long flight time stressing the motor. I have only been flying outside though and it's relatively cool so the motor never even gets warm although I do still wait 5 or 10 minutes between flights.

On another note, I have to say the stock batteries suck. One was puffed right out of the box new and they didn't have much power. They both started to fail after only 5 or 6 flights each. Now they only give a couple minutes of weak flight time.
If you are running in idle up for 7 or 8 minutes neither the motors or the batteries will last. If the batteries puff you are running them down to far, probably below 2.5 or something per cell.; That will kill any battery quickly, no matter what size.As far as the motor goes. After 4 minutes of flight mine is hot. I cannot imagine how hot it would be at 7 minutes, you must be running it till the blades barely turn. I have I am guessing close to 60 or so flights now on my motors and have 3 stock batteries. Am still getting good performance from both. Just set you r timer for 4 minutes and you should have better luck. Jim
Old Dec 27, 2012, 08:54 PM
Budasac is offline
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Originally Posted by LittleMo View Post
Yep. Just match black with black and red with red.

It's pretty easy to push the tab down and pull the pins out of the connector on the battery for swapping.
Just don't let the pins touch!
Old Dec 27, 2012, 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Jimbo45cn View Post
If you are running in idle up for 7 or 8 minutes neither the motors or the batteries will last. If the batteries puff you are running them down to far, probably below 2.5 or something per cell.; That will kill any battery quickly, no matter what size.As far as the motor goes. After 4 minutes of flight mine is hot. I cannot imagine how hot it would be at 7 minutes, you must be running it till the blades barely turn. I have I am guessing close to 60 or so flights now on my motors and have 3 stock batteries. Am still getting good performance from both. Just set you r timer for 4 minutes and you should have better luck. Jim
I haven't had any problems with the original motor. Like I said, it doesn't even get warm in this cold weather. Also like I said, the puffed battery was the stock battery and it was puffed right out of the box brand new (ie. defective from the factory).

The Genius itself seems to cut the power and force you to land well before the battery gets too low. I have measured the voltage and they are never more than 80% usage. In fact it could run a little more without damaging the battery IMO.

I know other people that had problems with the stock batteries despite proper care. It seems some batches may be bad or maybe too old.

No problems with my nano-techs, they can handle it and I use them on my micro-quads too. The motor on the GCP I'm not so sure about but no problems so far.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Budasac View Post
Just don't let the pins touch!
Yeah, no joke, you gotta be super careful when swapping the pins.
Old Dec 27, 2012, 09:18 PM
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Originally Posted by LittleMo View Post
I haven't had any problems with the original motor. Like I said, it doesn't even get warm in this cold weather. Also like I said, the puffed battery was the stock battery and it was puffed right out of the box brand new (ie. defective from the factory).

The Genius itself seems to cut the power and force you to land well before the battery gets too low. I have measured the voltage and they are never more than 80% usage. In fact it could run a little more without damaging the battery IMO.

I know other people that had problems with the stock batteries despite proper care. It seems some batches may be bad or maybe too old.

No problems with my nano-techs, they can handle it and I use them on my micro-quads too. The motor on the GCP I'm not so sure about but no problems so far.



Yeah, no joke, you gotta be super careful when swapping the pins.
I have a couple of nano techs too, and they seem fine, but my stock ones are still fine too, guess I am lucky. I have heard of the cutoff, but have never reached that as I set the timer for 4. Good luck. This sure is a fun little heli. Jim
Old Jan 03, 2013, 02:25 PM
rldeveer is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LittleMo View Post
Yep. Just match black with black and red with red.

It's pretty easy to push the tab down and pull the pins out of the connector on the battery for swapping.

I wrap a bit of tape around the end of the battery to make it fit tight in the Genius tray. Like this:
Looks like you have the +red wire going to the exposed pin on the micro dean. I was taught that - black wire should always go to the exposed pin.

No big deal as long as you are consistant. Just a comment.

RD
Old Jan 03, 2013, 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by rldeveer View Post
Looks like you have the +red wire going to the exposed pin on the micro dean. I was taught that - black wire should always go to the exposed pin.

No big deal as long as you are consistant. Just a comment.

RD
Yeah, I know, it felt wrong to me too but there is a reason. The way I have it wired is the official recommended way to wire them.

The reason is because it's better to have an exposed positive on the battery side than a charger because on the charger it could short to anywhere there is ground on your car (ie. pretty much anything metal in the car) whereas the battery can for the most part only short to its own negative terminal. Therefore was was deemed safer to put the exposed positive on the battery.
Old Jan 30, 2013, 05:56 PM
RaymondM is offline
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Recently I crashed my G and striped the servos. I have recently replaced the three servos and was just wanting to know if I got the mechanical setup right.
1. Turn off the Gyros by moving the little button on the R.C. to adj.
2. Adjust the connecting rods so that the servo horns are at 90 degrees when throttle is at 50%.
I did this and at 0 throttle it renders the swash at a forward position until the throttle is at 50% then the swash is level.
Is this the correct procedure?
Thanks
Old Jan 30, 2013, 06:03 PM
NorCalMatCat is offline
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FPV Electronics For Life!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RaymondM View Post
Recently I crashed my G and striped the servos. I have recently replaced the three servos and was just wanting to know if I got the mechanical setup right.
1. Turn off the Gyros by moving the little button on the R.C. to adj.
2. Adjust the connecting rods so that the servo horns are at 90 degrees when throttle is at 50%.
I did this and at 0 throttle it renders the swash at a forward position until the throttle is at 50% then the swash is level.
Is this the correct procedure?
Thanks
They don't necessary have to be 90 degrees, the idea is that at 0 collective the blades should be completely flat, and of course able to travel the full positive and negative throws needed to operate the heli.

As far as the blade angles when throttling up from 0 throttle, it is fairly common for it to do so, assuming you are using 3 axis and not 6 if you give it say forward stick it will stay that way until you give it something else, so don't worry much about that.
Old Jan 30, 2013, 11:09 PM
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The swash should always be level regardless of collective pitch. If it isn't then something is wrong. The only time the swash is not level is if the gyros are active or if you're applying elevator/aileron cyclic input.

Just don't put the horns below 90 degrees, in fact a little upwards from that is good. The connecting rods are too short and the ends will come off if the distance to the swash is too far.
Old Jan 31, 2013, 01:17 PM
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Hi all an old newbie here. I just bought the cpv2 brusless upgrade w/ devo10. It of course came with Tom Zs' setting already installed and being an idiot I completely wiped them out. I found the same setting on the web( he has a site) so I reinstalled his setting and it seems like it will work.
Here is my problem, When the heli lifts off it goes backward instantly. I am learning cp flight in my house so I don't have a lot of reaction time b/4 crashing. If it went straight up or slowly in any direction I could get control, but it is backwards too fast. I tired using the trim to give it forward counter input but then the tail rotor spins all the time and main rotors spin slowly too. That wont work so I'm lost. If any of you have ay ideas, suggestions, or a fix for me PLEASE give me a post or PM or email anything HELP!!!!!
Old Jan 31, 2013, 01:34 PM
Budasac is offline
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Adjusting trim for forward pitch shouldn't affect throttle. (Are you sure you didn't adjust the throttle trim instead). In any case, before you crash and break something, turn on the heli and bind and make sure you servos are centered and your swash is level. If all look well then place the heli on the ground and prepare to lift off. DO NOT TOUCH THE RIGHT STICK before lift off. Unlike a FP heli, that requires some stick input to lift straight up, a fbl cp will lift straight up with adjustments. However, if you move the stick in any direction before lifting off the heli will want to go that way until you correct it.

Hope that helps and congrats on your purchase. The Devo 10 is a nice tx. Good luck!!

Ps. If you want to mess with the programming to suit your flying style I suggest you copy the program to another model slot on the tx and then alter it. That way if you really screw it up you always have the original to go back to as a baseline. I also suggest you mod your skids before they break. You 'll probably want to do the servo saver mod as well if you're new to cp flying.
Last edited by Budasac; Feb 06, 2013 at 10:07 PM.
Old Jan 31, 2013, 03:26 PM
LarsDennert is offline
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And don't practice in your house if you don't even know how to hover!
Old Jan 31, 2013, 05:26 PM
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Another dumb mistake on part I did trim throtle not forward, but I put all trims back to center. I have had some hovers now a fewshort hovers with cyclic input and I know I can do this.
One thing I just noticed, is that with tail towards me and canopy off,throttle hold on the swash is level as I move the throttle forward the swash does not rise on the level. Sitting tail in I can see the left servo does not rise equally with the other 2. It starts to move then kind of drags or lags and does not end up as high as the other 2 at full throttle causing the same effect as adding cyclic to that side.
I haven't touched and ball liks or contorl arms, nothing look bent but it really doesn't have the same travel as the other two. Any ideas?
I have to fly in the house for now I live in Minnesota, it's about -7 and 25mph wind today. I am looking for a bog indoor space so I can have more reaction toime before impact. Thanks again for the help.
Old Jan 31, 2013, 08:18 PM
LarsDennert is offline
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Stripped Aileron servo gear from a crash. Run the cyclic through the motions and you should see the servo sticking.

Here are some useful manuals for you http://www.larsdennert.com/rc


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