Shop our Airplanes Products Drone Products Sales
Thread Tools
Nov 10, 2012, 03:27 PM
rldeveer's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by ShellFish31
Hey,

i'd be really interested in that hack. What exactly is a needle nose? (bad english striking back ;P). Also, d you happen to have pictures of the mod?
Thanks!
Needle nose pliers.

RD
Sign up now
to remove ads between posts
Nov 10, 2012, 10:20 PM
FPVpilots do it remotely
Dying batteries.? EDIT - NOT DYING.!

I got a handful of the 350 batteries. and charge them in the supplies USB charger. the digital meter thing says 4.2 when charged. so far so good.

So I plug them into the Genius CP, but I only get maybe 30-45 sec of flight before the battery can't keep the heli up.....

I let them sit at least 15+ minutes before charging to make sure they have cooled first.

Bo

EDIT: Well guess Im still learning - i got two new motors from Wow this week and already popped one on the GeniusCP.. on a hunch, somebody here wrote "even new I would not rate a brushed motors lifetime"... so swapped in the second new motor.. and YEAH.. my batteries work again.. bad news, I need more motors. :-)
Last edited by Bo Lorentzen; Nov 11, 2012 at 12:59 AM.
Nov 12, 2012, 02:58 AM
Registered User
@Hajile: Tail wag usually has to do with bad vibrations on your heli. Check blades for balancing, feathering shaft straightness (roll over glass surface). Check whether the mainshaft is still true and of equal thickness in the area around the swashplate. Also check if there are hair-cracks in the main-frame, and/or the bladegrip bearings and main bearings are still OK. Of course, this applies IF your heli is vibrating. If you hold it with two fingers at the carbon rod that fastenes the canopy, and your pinky below the battery holder, then slowly spin up more and more, you can nicely check for vibrations. Its good to let it run veeery slowly for a while, so you'll see and feel more. On higher RPM, check if cables optically seem to "multiplicate", or still "stay one piece". Never heared of a dying gyro.

@rldeveer: Thanks for clearification - totally overread that ;(. Thanks for the image too!. One last question - you did rip some 2S/3S hyperion battery appart to get that single cell, right? Cause i couldn't find a 1S 320mAh hyperion battery... -- Thanks!
Nov 12, 2012, 04:36 AM
Registered User
I can't seem to take off the blade grips, i've unscrewed one of them and tried pulling them apart. They're really wedged in there. I did this video to check and i can't feel any shifting so i suppose the feathering shaft is still straight.

MCPX - How to check if the feathering shaft is bent - Fast Method (1 min 34 sec)


I'll check again once the new parts arrive. I may even just get a rotor head set just for spares.

Also, is it possible that these are the reason for the wobbling?



If you look at the base of the tail blade, you may see that it's partially melted. That's why i'm wondering if it's the motor dying.



And that's the tail boom. It didn't break from a crash, but it did have a split that kept growing.

I'm hoping the heli will be flyable again once the tail set arrives.
Nov 12, 2012, 11:07 AM
Registered User
Hey,

first off, you cannot judge whether the feathering shaft is straight while its still mounted. If its glued in with loctite, you might be able to put some thermal compount on the tip of a old screwdriver, push that one against the screw and heat the screwdriver. Loctite gets loose after it has been heated to over 250C, so you only need to get the screw that hot without melting the plastics around.

About that tail boom - thats a good, likely reason. After a crash that hits the tail badly there are often hair cracks in the tailboom. You won't notice them unless you check the tailboom specifically for torsion stiffness (e.g. hold both ends and "twist" them gainst each other). That hair crack will then work itself forward along the seams of the single fibres. As everything gets looser more and more hair cracks start to appear, until it looks like your case. Get a new one first ;P. Tip is getting a whole meter or two of that carbon fiber square tube and cutting it yourself (by wrapping the part where you cut in wrapping tape, then cut using a dremel cutting wheel and soaking the ends in CA glue shortly, then take off the packing tape again) - much cheaper ;P.

Do you feel any vibrations when running the heli in your hand as i described, taking care not to spin the tail up?
Nov 12, 2012, 02:34 PM
rldeveer's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by ShellFish31
@rldeveer: Thanks for clearification - totally overread that ;(. Thanks for the image too!. One last question - you did rip some 2S/3S hyperion battery appart to get that single cell, right? Cause i couldn't find a 1S 320mAh hyperion battery... -- Thanks!
I wired bare cells from HeliHeli.com for $3.75 each and love them. He's located in Arizona. His prices on orther parts are in line with most US distributors. A bit less than WOW but poorer selection. The Helping Hands at $4.95 are a great deal. I still use HobbyOne and Chinesejade for most of my spares but always have at least one of everything on hand. Basicly a third bird in parts and replentish that needed.
RD
Nov 12, 2012, 03:58 PM
Registered User
Apphoard's Avatar
Anyone have a 2801Pro main PB for the Genius they want to get rid of? Or maybe even a Devo main board since I'm considering getting the 8s.
Nov 12, 2012, 08:57 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by ShellFish31
Hey,

first off, you cannot judge whether the feathering shaft is straight while its still mounted. If its glued in with loctite, you might be able to put some thermal compount on the tip of a old screwdriver, push that one against the screw and heat the screwdriver. Loctite gets loose after it has been heated to over 250C, so you only need to get the screw that hot without melting the plastics around.

About that tail boom - thats a good, likely reason. After a crash that hits the tail badly there are often hair cracks in the tailboom. You won't notice them unless you check the tailboom specifically for torsion stiffness (e.g. hold both ends and "twist" them gainst each other). That hair crack will then work itself forward along the seams of the single fibres. As everything gets looser more and more hair cracks start to appear, until it looks like your case. Get a new one first ;P. Tip is getting a whole meter or two of that carbon fiber square tube and cutting it yourself (by wrapping the part where you cut in wrapping tape, then cut using a dremel cutting wheel and soaking the ends in CA glue shortly, then take off the packing tape again) - much cheaper ;P.

Do you feel any vibrations when running the heli in your hand as i described, taking care not to spin the tail up?
With the tail motor disconnected, i sensed vibration at really low RPM, but evens out, i'm just assuming that it's like in the 450 where there's a very brief bit of vibration on spin-up/down. At high RPM i don't see the cables doubling, the tail motor also looks solid, but the tip of the vertical stabilizer does seem to become twice as thick.

I may try swapping out the motor. On my 2nd motor, just before it burned out, the heli was vibrating pretty bad. It went away when i changed it. Of course, motor #3 was the one that got so hot the frame melted.

They sell carbon fiber tubes? I'll have to look for it. Do tails break often enough to warrant getting them in bulk? And the canopy mount was carbon fiber? I thought it was metal, must be why it still hasn't bent.

Damnit, i should have included a new mainshaft and rotorhead in my order.

Dremels seem like a handy tool, i'll have to look into getting one of those too. How much are they usually?
Nov 12, 2012, 10:32 PM
Sopwith Camel's Cousin
[QUOTE=ShellFish31;23246753...

@rldeveer: Thanks for clearification - totally overread that ;(. Thanks for the image too!. One last question - you did rip some 2S/3S hyperion battery appart to get that single cell, right? Cause i couldn't find a 1S 320mAh hyperion battery... -- Thanks![/QUOTE]
On source of 1s 320mAh hyperions.
With jst connector: back-order.
"Solder your own connector" version: available.

http://www.allerc.com/batteries-lith..._4_93_155.html
Nov 14, 2012, 02:40 AM
rldeveer's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by flying-llama
On source of 1s 320mAh hyperions.
With jst connector: back-order.
"Solder your own connector" version: available.

http://www.allerc.com/batteries-lith..._4_93_155.html
YA, that is another shop in AZ.
$0.20 more for the same bare cells. Put on Micro Deans and go fly.

RD
Nov 14, 2012, 05:28 PM
Registered User
Jimbo45cn's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by rldeveer
YA, that is another shop in AZ.
$0.20 more for the same bare cells. Put on Micro Deans and go fly.

RD
Am ordering a few of these. Jim
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s..._Mini_CP_.html
Nov 16, 2012, 09:46 AM
Micro Menace
Hey guys, I was gonna order one of these today with a Devo 7 tx. I started reading through this thread but it's rediculously long. Just wondering if there's anything I should be aware of, any must have replacement parts, and what's the best replacement battery that doesn't require any mods.

Also, I was going to order from oomodel.com. Anyone have experience w/ them?
Nov 16, 2012, 11:19 AM
V120D02S, GCP
LarsDennert's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Budasac
Hey guys, I was gonna order one of these today with a Devo 7 tx. I started reading through this thread but it's rediculously long. Just wondering if there's anything I should be aware of, any must have replacement parts, and what's the best replacement battery that doesn't require any mods.

Also, I was going to order from oomodel.com. Anyone have experience w/ them?
If you have never used the Devo 7, get my marked up manual http://www.larsdennert.com/rc For the GCP the skids will likely be the first item so buy a frame but use a glue gun to reenforce them where the skid uprights connect to the frame. That helps.
The Hyperion 240s are a good balance between weight and life. Don't over-discharge (any of) them and let the heli cool between runs or the main motor will suffer over time.

Over time, it is cheaper to buy a second BNF for parts than all the parts separately. oomodel is good
Nov 16, 2012, 06:21 PM
Registered User
I wouldn't really second that, as the most expensive part of the heli is the PCB, and i've never heared of one breaking (except you do something really dumb, like flying 3d stuff you haven't practiced over stone floor without the canopy on...).
Nov 16, 2012, 06:41 PM
Micro Menace
For now I'm just going to get a few spare parts that seem to need replacing on all helis: like the frame (skids), canopy , tail, etc.

How do you guys like the Devo 7? It's only $138 for the Genius CP w/ the Devo 7. I wanted to get a Devo so I could buy some other BNFs. I know the Devo 7 is the cheapest in that line of TXs, is it any good? Or am I going to want to upgrade it soon? I saw it stores 15 models, so I figured I would be all set with Walkera stuff.


Thread Tools

Similar Threads
Category Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Discussion smallest lightest 10-12mp camera? cdi3d Aerial Photography 16 Apr 27, 2011 09:36 PM
Article Think Geek's MX-1 RTF Helicopter Review: Is it the World's smallest R/C helicopter? Michael Heer Coaxial Helicopters 27 Oct 29, 2008 08:43 AM
The lightest 3D belt driven micro electric helicopter in the world--------ELE Firefox ELE kiki Product Announcements 42 Aug 27, 2007 11:49 PM
Discussion ELE firefox-100, flying weight 180g-the lightest 3D helicopter in the world. ELERC Mini Helis 11 Jun 21, 2007 08:17 AM