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Sep 30, 2012, 10:47 PM
Registered User
how to level the swash plate for GCP and get 0 pitch without pitch gauge? just eyeball it? currently i am having motor bogging after 50% pitch and throttle...
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Sep 30, 2012, 11:32 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by leonggyooi
how to level the swash plate for GCP and get 0 pitch without pitch gauge? just eyeball it? currently i am having motor bogging after 50% pitch and throttle...
when you fold both blades back and have them parallel to each other and perfectly horizontal you pretty much have zero pitch. after that you may have to adjust the tracking just a bit. But, unless you are getting some pitch at 50% throttle you really shouldn't be bogging at all. Not at 50%
Oct 01, 2012, 03:35 AM
Registered User
Heyyas,

i've recently started getting the real hang of this little heli (as in, crashless FFF, small flips and stuff) and now i've wanted to start working on piroette-based figures, noticing that a 360 turn while standing still leads to a severe drift after the turn has complete - clockwise the heli turns front right, ccw the heli turns front left. While i've already started to try to compensate this with mixing elev/aile to rudder i haven't achieved something useable with that. Did anybody do this before, and if so, can you give me your mixing parameters to work upon? I know that this is highly heli specific, as it is probably a CG problem, but it'd be nice nonetheless. If it already has been done, and i've missed the post/thread where, could you please point me? I've tried searching, but nothing worthwhile came up ;/.

This is original walkera brushless set with original length tailboom and the HK 300mAh mcpx batteries btw... Also, i've finally got that BL kit to work nicely without any tail wags or blowouts. It holds steady as it should. Just the main motor power disappoints me a bit.
Walkera Genius Cp brushless 3d flight (2 min 35 sec)
looks like it has *so*much*more* power than mine... ;(.

Best Regards
Oct 01, 2012, 06:46 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by pmerritt
when you fold both blades back and have them parallel to each other and perfectly horizontal you pretty much have zero pitch. after that you may have to adjust the tracking just a bit. But, unless you are getting some pitch at 50% throttle you really shouldn't be bogging at all. Not at 50%
0 pitch done, however i notice when there is a full negative pitch, the blades will be touching the tail boom but full positive pitch, the blades do not touch the tail boom..there is a difference in the blades gap between full positive and full negative pitch and swash is also touching the collar on full negative...

now i set the pitch curve from L20%-H70% for normal indoor flying..throttle curve at 0, 25,50,70,80,90,100..im using Devo8s Tx..
Oct 01, 2012, 09:29 AM
Suspended Account
Quote:
Originally Posted by leonggyooi
0 pitch done, however i notice when there is a full negative pitch, the blades will be touching the tail boom but full positive pitch, the blades do not touch the tail boom..there is a difference in the blades gap between full positive and full negative pitch and swash is also touching the collar on full negative...

now i set the pitch curve from L20%-H70% for normal indoor flying..throttle curve at 0, 25,50,70,80,90,100..im using Devo8s Tx..
Set the servo > swash links (extend them) so that the swash is halfway between the collar and rotor head at zero pitch, midstick.
Set you TX Pitch and throttle curve to 50% at midstick, or flatline it so the position of stick is irrelevant (L-50,1-50,2-50, etc, etc..) while doing this.
Oct 01, 2012, 11:09 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by V999D02
Set the servo > swash links (extend them) so that the swash is halfway between the collar and rotor head at zero pitch, midstick.
Set you TX Pitch and throttle curve to 50% at midstick, or flatline it so the position of stick is irrelevant (L-50,1-50,2-50, etc, etc..) while doing this.
yeah, looks like i need to move the entire swash up a little...adjusting the small rods are quite a hassle especially there is no swash leveler to use..just base on eyeball-ing...LOL...CCPM...haha..
Oct 01, 2012, 06:21 PM
Suspended Account
Eyeballing will do, but if you wanna be anal like me I use a cable tie to level the swash on my precision machines (not my Genius, just my 400, 550, etc).
A swash leveller tool is an unnecessary expense.
The cable tie method works well, and it's been well documented so I wont elaborate here.
Just search youtube for "cable tie swash levelling" for future reference.
Edit;
Here you go.. http://www.youtube.com/watch?gl=GB&h...&v=iUAluAxRi4Q
Last edited by V999D02; Oct 01, 2012 at 06:29 PM. Reason: Link added
Oct 01, 2012, 09:00 PM
alienfpv, warpquad, goby180
Does anybody know a US source for wire as small as what is used for the tail motor on the minicp? I am looking for plastic insulated and stranded wire, not the enamel coated stuff. Can someone tell me what gauge it is so I can know I'm getting the size I want if I find a place that sells micro wire like that?

thanks!
Oct 01, 2012, 10:01 PM
Suspended Account
Quote:
Originally Posted by candy76man
Does anybody know a US source for wire as small as what is used for the tail motor on the minicp? I am looking for plastic insulated and stranded wire, not the enamel coated stuff. Can someone tell me what gauge it is so I can know I'm getting the size I want if I find a place that sells micro wire like that?

thanks!
Not being in the US, I can't help with a vendor.

I can help you with the AWG, though.

36AWG should be good as it's only about 0.2mm thick.

I have some here, along with some thicker stuff at 24AWG.

You might be able to get thinner than 36AWG, but I'm not certain. Just have a search for 38, 40, etc..
Oct 01, 2012, 11:01 PM
Registered User
bobfa's Avatar
Remove the windings of a old worn RC motor. Burn / scrap the enamel coating for soldering.
Oct 02, 2012, 06:08 AM
Registered User
Im a new kid in the block. Is this upgrade any good..it badged as Walkera upgrade and comes with Lipo

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Hot-f...519585621.html
Oct 02, 2012, 06:43 AM
Suspended Account
Quote:
Originally Posted by MartinL
Im a new kid in the block. Is this upgrade any good..it badged as Walkera upgrade and comes with Lipo

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Hot-f...519585621.html
Not heard any good reports about it, only bad.
Probably better to just buy a seperate brushless ESC and C03, C05 motor or similar.
Have a read on the Walkera kit here; https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show....php?t=1593478
Oct 02, 2012, 08:37 AM
Registered User
Hey,

can anyone who still has the original brushed tail motor take a measure for and tell me diameter, length and shaft lenght, please? I think i've just found a sweet BL inrunner with tons of torque and high rpm that *could* fit. But i have no original brushed tail motor here anymore ;(.
Oct 02, 2012, 08:54 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by V999D02
Not heard any good reports about it, only bad.
Probably better to just buy a seperate brushless ESC and C03, C05 motor or similar.
Have a read on the Walkera kit here; https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show....php?t=1593478
Thanks.. saved my money. I will go either for HK C05 and their Esc. anyone can recomend a pinion for the 1.5mm shaft?? where to buy??

Or just go for the wowhobbies kit???
Oct 02, 2012, 03:39 PM
Micro Helicopter Electrician
1Hammer's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by ShellFish31
Hey,

can anyone who still has the original brushed tail motor take a measure for and tell me diameter, length and shaft lenght, please? I think i've just found a sweet BL inrunner with tons of torque and high rpm that *could* fit. But i have no original brushed tail motor here anymore ;(.
The original brushed tail motor measures as follows.

Motor Can:
6.0mm Diameter
15.0mm Long

Motor Shaft:
0.75mm Diameter
4.45mm Long

Hope this helps.

Regards,
John


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