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Aug 13, 2011, 11:51 AM
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Boat planks


My set up for making planks
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Aug 13, 2011, 12:30 PM
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Gravman's Avatar
With your fence set to the left didn't you have to keep changing it after each pass? I may be missing something though. When I cut mine I set the blade about 3/16 from the fence and cut them. Kinda scary either way you do it.
Aug 13, 2011, 01:20 PM
Registered User
I've done something similar and had a bunch of shims the right thickness and add one between the fence and plank each pass.
Aug 13, 2011, 01:20 PM
Woodfumbler......
Sharky1dk's Avatar
Nice surroundings, for making planks.
And the results is looking good to.


Robert
Aug 13, 2011, 01:30 PM
Red, White, & Mahogany
patmat2350's Avatar
I rip them on a bandsaw, but have to thickness sand to finish...
Aug 13, 2011, 02:58 PM
Tinkerer in Training
RGinCanada's Avatar
Ripping thin strips is a lot easier with a zero-clearance insert and the proper blade. I have ripped down to a little under 1/8" with a Freud Glue-Line Ripping blade on my Ridgid table saw.
Aug 13, 2011, 03:29 PM
Registered User
Gravman's Avatar
Yes, I have to run mine through the thickness sander after I cut them. My thickness sander must have had 10,000ft of Mahogany run through it over the years. It is from way back in the 1980's. It just keeps chunging along.
Aug 13, 2011, 04:00 PM
Registered User
You have to push the board up against the feather board, then move the fence up to it and lock it with each pass. Works real well, because the strip is not being stuck between the fence and blade. The strips are 3/32" x 48" Don
Aug 13, 2011, 04:33 PM
Registered User
Actually you can cut one that is correct then use it and every succeeding one for spacers.
Aug 13, 2011, 04:42 PM
Registered User
chesguy's Avatar
Don't you still need to allow for kerf of the blade each time?
Aug 13, 2011, 04:47 PM
SLK
Stu Kerrn's Avatar

Sawing Planks


Quote:
Originally Posted by 420TEE View Post
Actually you can cut one that is correct then use it and every succeeding one for spacers.
I have a four inch table saw with a micrometer on the rip fence. I saw all my planks a few thousandths wide (band saw or the small table saw carbide blade) and then use a hand micrometer, get the plank size and then use the micrometer on the rip fence to get the exact size I feel I want, every time. My saw has a removable blade cover insert, to have zero blade clearance for various thickness slitting blades (no kerf). With this method I can make 1/32 square stock. Thank you Stu Kerrn
Last edited by Stu Kerrn; Aug 13, 2011 at 04:57 PM.
Aug 13, 2011, 08:39 PM
Retired for now
Nice set up Hotshot. I'll have to try that on my table saw. The only thing missing in your pictures is a nice old time mahogany runabout at the dock. Nice looking site. pete
Aug 14, 2011, 12:30 PM
Big Boats Rule!
boater_dave's Avatar
I used a disposable piece of thin ply clamped to the table as a zero clearance insert. I would set the fence position by testing on a scrap piece. Then lower the blade and clamp the ply in place. Start the blade and raise it through the ply. And my fence is on the right side of the blade so it doesn't change for each cut. I found that it works best to cut the planks from a bigger board by ripping the plank thickness dimension first, then going for the width. Always start with longer planks than needed so you don't have to worry about the last few inches. And use a push stick and finger boards as needed to keep the stock under control. A helper to pull the pieces out the other end helps, too.

Dave


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