@ Kingsflyer , i use the crc 5-56 during my jod. i work as a mechanic whit the dutch tripple a . I use this spray for to isolate ignition systems which have the spark come out of the cable's , coil , and distributercap etc . in the dutch manual yoy can read that it is safe to use on any kind of plastic , printcard etc.

I tried google a spary whit the advertisement dieelectric but haven't found anythin that you can buy here in the netherlands.

Greetz ,

Bart

Here are the pics of the assambly so far.
Everything fits remarkebaly wel , like a Lego kit.

Greetz ,

Bart

[QUOTE=Bart83;20109162I tried google a spary whit the advertisement dieelectric but haven't found anythin that you can buy here in the netherlands. Bart[/QUOTE]

It looks like CorrosionX is available in Germany. You might try this email for info and availability.

scandex-ceo@t-online.de

McD

Originally Posted by chistech

When I tape the hatch down I don't tape completely around to prevent water from getting in. I only put two pieces on it to prevent it from popping out of place. It doesn't get much water in it at all as long as the hatch stays in place. I don't think a involved type of seal is needed. The gutter around the hatch seems to prevent much water from getting in at all.

Really not an involved seal at all...took longer to type it than it would to actually do it.... Probably took all of ten minutes to do. I hate the look of tape sealing a hatch on a nice model.

Water caught in the gutter could enter the hatch if you do a roll....

Lots of glow flyers do the simple form in place silicone seal on the wing to fuse joint on non-seaplane models to prevent oil and fuel mist from gaining entrance to the area under the wing.

Will also be doing this to the wing to fuse area on the Widgeon...will work much better than the stock method.

Did this to my Electrifly Seawind on the hatch and the wing saddle and had MUCH less trouble with water seepage.

Just finished the wing , assembly went pretty strait forward. Only thing a bit challenging was to get al the wires trough the timy hole.

Here are the pics

























@ Kingsflyer , thanx for the tip. I found a webshop in the netherlands , is this the right stuff? http://www.shipsworld.nl/02.4764-cor...x-50-ml-2.html

Greets ,

Bart

Originally Posted by Bart83

Kingsflyer , thanx for the tip. I found a webshop in the netherlands , is this the right stuff? http://www.shipsworld.nl/02.4764-cor...x-50-ml-2.html
Greets ,
Bart

That's it!! Great find. That size will last for years and for many more seaplane models. You might even consider "sharing" some with your fellow float plane flyers after you've tried it out.

I usually spray a generous amount (Throughly Soak!) in my Receivers and my ESCs and then let them drain overnight on a paper towel. If you are going to use Velcro to mount them, you may need to clean a small spot with a little alcohol so the adhesive will stick. I also spray all the electrical connections for the battery and servos to keep out the water and keep the wires under the insulation from corroding over time.

McD

I pre-ordered the Widgeon from TH the day I saw it on the cover of Fly RC magazine. It arrived on the 4th. of October as I recall. I have the Electrifly PBY so I knew this model was well done and because it was their 3rd seaplane I figured they learned lessons from the PBY and Seawind and made improvements. I've read through the entire thread and I feel they have. The major difference between the G-44 and the PBY is the PBY has an undercambered airfoil making it a little less sporty and easier to fly and the G-44 has a more symetrtical airfoil. With the undercambered airfoil the PBY doesn't like to be inverted. There was some discussion on weather or not to do counter rotating props, I did that on my PBY and I have no regrets, I'll probably do the same thing with the G-44. I didn't do differential throttle on the PBY but I have a new JR X9503 radio and I'll definatly program in differential.

One thing I didn't see mentioned is disabling the BEC on one of the ESC's in a twin motor configuration. It's a good idea and simple to do by pulling the red wire/connector from the male plug and folding it over backwards and taping it with electrical tape, that way you can re-use that ESC on a later project.

I haven't started assembly yet because I have a couple of projects ahead of it. I want to finish a small parkflyer kit that I built. All that's left is to cover the wing and do final assembly. I have an e-Flite Super Cub 25e that I haven't started yet, then the G-44. It's winter, it's building season for me so I have plenty of time to get it ready for water by spring.

Sonny, it's good to see you active again I'm surprised to see you popped on the G-44. I thought you were done with built up models and dedicated to foam except for gliders. I saw your latest Snoopy video on XtremeFlyer. I rarely go there anymore. When I click on it I can hear crickets chirping. I still haven't done anything with the spare set of PBY wings you sent me, too many irons in the fire right now but someday I'll work out a set of retractable tip floats for them. Surprisingly, my PBY is still in one piece and still flyable.

Originally Posted by Taildragger55

I pre-ordered the Widgeon from TH the day I saw it on the cover of Fly RC magazine. It arrived on the 4th. of October as I recall. I have the Electrifly PBY so I knew this model was well done and because it was their 3rd seaplane I figured they learned lessons from the PBY and Seawind and made improvements. I've read through the entire thread and I feel they have. The major difference between the G-44 and the PBY is the PBY has an undercambered airfoil making it a little less sporty and easier to fly and the G-44 has a more symetrtical airfoil. With the undercambered airfoil the PBY doesn't like to be inverted. There was some discussion on weather or not to do counter rotating props, I did that on my PBY and I have no regrets, I'll probably do the same thing with the G-44. I didn't do differential throttle on the PBY but I have a new JR X9503 radio and I'll definatly program in differential.

One thing I didn't see mentioned is disabling the BEC on one of the ESC's in a twin motor configuration. It's a good idea and simple to do by pulling the red wire/connector from the male plug and folding it over backwards and taping it with electrical tape, that way you can re-use that ESC on a later project.

I haven't started assembly yet because I have a couple of projects ahead of it. I want to finish a small parkflyer kit that I built. All that's left is to cover the wing and do final assembly. I have an e-Flite Super Cub 25e that I haven't started yet, then the G-44. It's winter, it's building season for me so I have plenty of time to get it ready for water by spring.

Sonny, it's good to see you active again I'm surprised to see you popped on the G-44. I thought you were done with built up models and dedicated to foam except for gliders. I saw your latest Snoopy video on XtremeFlyer. I rarely go there anymore. When I click on it I can hear crickets chirping. I still haven't done anything with the spare set of PBY wings you sent me, too many irons in the fire right now but someday I'll work out a set of retractable tip floats for them. Surprisingly, my PBY is still in one piece and still flyable.

Hi TD, good to hear from you too! BTW; I've been posting to my Snoopy thread on XF lately too. I have a Widgeon in line between two, (or three, four/five maybe?), other projects, but I've been monitoring this thread closely. Funny how some of the same topics came up in both this and the PBY thread; counter-rotating props, hatch design which leaks, waterproofing the servos, and etc, etc. It looks to me to be a slightly heavier airplane, more sport than scale in flight performance, yet it seems to be a typical waterplane with typical waterplane issues. Of course, having no suitable water sources nearby for ROW, I will probably be reinforcing mine for hand launching and grass field landing, (ala my PBY; used packing tape rubbed with cooking spray and/or silicone spray on the bottom to make the hull slippery for landings and ROG takeoffs...worked great, painted thinned epoxy inside the fuse bottom for reinforcement). I also will most likely upgrade the power system as I did on my PBY; the Rimfire motors suggested are a little anemic in my opinion, (based on my experience first flying my PBY on Rimfires, but then switching to other motors; night and day difference in power). Counter-rotating props? Probably not again, unless I find better CR props than the very thin GWS props I used on the PBY. I changed back to normal rotation with the stock props, and performance was noticeably better with the upgraded motors, (Heads Up RC 2830-11's, 8x6 props/16A WOT each motor).

It's been a rough year TD, RC has had to take a back seat to other things, and my budget for such things is at an all time low, (non existent actually). So, I'll have more time soon to pursue those projects, but less money to invest, (none). I'll be building and flying what I have already on hand, and one of the things that will have to wait will be a power system for the Widgeon. I'll be completing projects I have all the pieces for, and will be saving my pennies for the rest, in the meantime I'll live "Widgeon" vicariously through the rest of you.

Sonny

@ Taildragger55 , why is it a good idea to disable de BEC on one of the esc's , can things be dammaged if you leave it working on both the esc's ?

You living in Alaska , mmhh i picture a nice snowy flting location during winter season , am i correct?

Greets ,

Bart

The Widgeon Review is going to the editor today! WOO HOO! As soon as Angela does her Magic, it should be online.

In the review I mention the fact that I experienced some noticable torque effect from the same rotation props on the stock configuration. There is a strong torque to the left on takeoff and during rapid throttle changes both left and right. I think counter-rotating props may be a very good idea, but I first had to review the model in it's stock form.

Look at the picture and you can see that the plane is torquing to the left and I have a lot of right aileron and rudder input to try and bring it back to level. The good news is that once you are up on step, the effect is much reduced.

McD

Originally Posted by Bart83

@ Taildragger55 , why is it a good idea to disable de BEC on one of the esc's , can things be dammaged if you leave it working on both the esc's ?

You living in Alaska , mmhh i picture a nice snowy flting location during winter season , am i correct?

Greets ,

Bart

Your correct Bart. We set a record snowfall for the month of November, 35 inches, (a little less than a meter). Then it got warm and rained and a lot of it melted. A few days ago we had 100+ mph winds, (about 160 K) if I did the conversion correctly, then snowed about a foot (a little more than 30 cm.) The weather has been so bad that I haven't had the desire to do any flying. I haven't flown anything since September.

It was good to hear from you again Sonny. You're right, many of the same issues on this thread as there was on the PBY thread. I think for most, this is they're first twin, so they have the same questions. With the availability of modern motors and batteries twins are easier than they used to be with glow power. I rarely saw a glow powered twin fly without one engine flaming out. The G-44 is definately a sportier model than the PBY, it has a lot of character. It's looks great in the air and on the water. Mine will be ready by this spring. Hopefully your financial issues will improve. The economy here is still fairly good and steady.

Originally Posted by Taildragger55

Your correct Bart. We set a record snowfall for the month of November, 35 inches, (a little less than a meter). Then it got warm and rained and a lot of it melted. A few days ago we had 100+ mph winds, (about 160 K) if I did the conversion correctly, then snowed about a foot (a little more than 30 cm.) The weather has been so bad that I haven't had the desire to do any flying. I haven't flown anything since September.

It was good to hear from you again Sonny. You're right, many of the same issues on this thread as there was on the PBY thread. I think for most, this is they're first twin, so they have the same questions. With the availability of modern motors and batteries twins are easier than they used to be with glow power. I rarely saw a glow powered twin fly without one engine flaming out. The G-44 is definately a sportier model than the PBY, it has a lot of character. It's looks great in the air and on the water. Mine will be ready by this spring. Hopefully your financial issues will improve. The economy here is still fairly good and steady.

Well, there's always a good chance that I will be crashing something soon, so obtaining a power system might just happen by default! In the meantime the Widgeon will be there waiting when I get all the parts I need.
Bundle up and stay warm, and have a great Christmas!

Sonny

@ Taildragger55 , why is it a good idea to disable de BEC on one of the esc's , can things be dammaged if you leave it working on both the esc's ?

I watch Flying wild Alaska frequenty so i can imagen howe the weather can be over there. 160km/u ( 100m/pu ) winds , whoah thats a strong wind .!!

Greets Bart

Oops, sorry Bart, I forgot to answere your question. I'm not sure why you should disable one of the BEC's on dual ESC set-ups in a twin confguration. I suppose it's because you only need one to function in order to signal a low voltage condition before battery cut-off.

I was trying to set up a little park flyer twin last summer and when I plugged the battery in to test both motors and ESC's, one motor failed to run. When I disabled one of the BEC's and conected the battery, both motors ran. I don't know why. IF you use a seperate BEC, disable them both. I've read several other threads concerning twins and more knowlagable people than me recommended it. Someone with more knowlage than me, please chime in and explain.

I've flown all over the state in ERA and Hageland airplanes. That was before Jim Twedo bought the company though.

Merry Christmas to you too Sonny, and to all.

Originally Posted by Taildragger55

Oops, sorry Bart, I forgot to answere your question. I'm not sure why you should disable one of the BEC's on dual ESC set-ups in a twin confguration. I suppose it's because you only need one to function in order to signal a low voltage condition before battery cut-off.

I was trying to set up a little park flyer twin last summer and when I plugged the battery in to test both motors and ESC's, one motor failed to run. When I disabled one of the BEC's and conected the battery, both motors ran. I don't know why. IF you use a seperate BEC, disable them both. I've read several other threads concerning twins and more knowlagable people than me recommended it. Someone with more knowlage than me, please chime in and explain.

I've flown all over the state in ERA and Hageland airplanes. That was before Jim Twedo bought the company though.

Merry Christmas to you too Sonny, and to all.

Each esc has a bec supplying current to the rx, and that can sometimes cause problems, hence the recommendation to disable the bec in one esc. It can possibly fry some esc's and/or the rx if you don't; though some folks run both all the time in twins and nothing ever happens, better to be safe than sorry in my opinion, (simply snip the red wire on one esc..done!).

Hey TD, next time you fly on ERA ask Ariel to drop by my house for a visit sometime, (only reason to watch that show if you ask me...of course I do like the airplanes too...but not as much!!) Happy Holidays and good air!

Sonny