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Old Dec 01, 2012, 09:51 PM
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Originally Posted by brushless55 View Post
Got mine yesterday from the Black Friday $70 sale!
and picked up a DX8 about an hour ago!!!
$70!!! Wow, & a DX8, nice score!!! Congrats!
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Old Dec 01, 2012, 10:03 PM
brushless55 is offline
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Originally Posted by rcoconut View Post
$70!!! Wow, & a DX8, nice score!!! Congrats!
I have a DX6i and like that radio but this DX8 flipping rocks!!
so easy to program my Stryker to the DX8
Old Dec 01, 2012, 10:38 PM
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Originally Posted by brushless55 View Post
I have a DX6i and like that radio but this DX8 flipping rocks!!
so easy to program my Stryker to the DX8
No doubt!!! It was such an easy transition to the 8 as well as moving the fleet over!! My Radian Pro was so easy!!!

Have fun with both!!!!
Old Dec 01, 2012, 11:28 PM
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Originally Posted by brushless55 View Post
Got mine yesterday from the Black Friday $70 sale!
and picked up a DX8 about an hour ago!!!
Glad you got a DX8, BL. You'll love it. The DX6i is a nice radio for the money for sure, but I love my DX8!
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Old Dec 02, 2012, 05:40 AM
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I just received my new UM Stryker. It is missing one servo cover. And the battery seems to be slightly puffed, when you squezze it seems hard is this normal for the stock battery.
Also when i power it up the servos make quite a bit of noise at idle. I bound and setup setting on my dx6i still seems noisy. It works ok with control. First flight next day off.
Old Dec 02, 2012, 05:50 AM
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Originally Posted by lovespicyfood View Post
Hi Jim,

Just loaded your file into my DX8 after moving the servo connectors around as suggested. Everything works fine except for the right aileron is not working. However, this control surface works fine when applying elevator- the control surface moves and moves in the right direction.

Any suggestions on what is going on?

The only thing I did so far was erase the +30 sub trim on the rudders...

Thanks,
Pete
Sub trim on Rudder?
I thought that was a big no no for linear servos...
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Old Dec 02, 2012, 07:08 AM
RealGambler is offline
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Originally Posted by tomcor View Post
I just received my new UM Stryker. It is missing one servo cover. And the battery seems to be slightly puffed, when you squezze it seems hard is this normal for the stock battery.
Also when i power it up the servos make quite a bit of noise at idle. I bound and setup setting on my dx6i still seems noisy. It works ok with control. First flight next day off.
Should not be missing the servo cover... There's a few reports of servo covers not having much glue on, so maybe it's somewhere in the box under the foam.... The noise is normal (I guess this is your first ultra micro with linear servos?).
Old Dec 02, 2012, 07:58 AM
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Originally Posted by brushless55 View Post
Got mine yesterday from the Black Friday $70 sale!
and picked up a DX8 about an hour ago!!!
I grabbed that deal too. Actually I mentioned it, and the wife bought it for me for Christmas.
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Old Dec 02, 2012, 03:48 PM
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Originally Posted by SilentPilot View Post
Sub trim on Rudder?
I thought that was a big no no for linear servos...
He's using my SPM file which employs split rudders. I moved the sub-trim inwards 30 counts and then mechanically re-aligned the rudders. This is because I have the rudders configured to go more "out" than "in" to give a better yaw-response with less pitch-up tendency. It also allows a little extra yaw movement when you have the tails split for air-brakes.

However, many people may not want to spend nearly as much ridiculous time I did making it juuuuuust right.

- Jim
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Old Dec 02, 2012, 04:38 PM
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I thought that using sub trim on these tiny linear servos was a sure way to mess them up...
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Old Dec 02, 2012, 07:38 PM
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Flew mine on 3S today (ofc, rudder got stuck twice @ 80% ;-)
That was damn tricky to bring it back with a stuck rudder when it was over the water, i might have grown a couple of white hair..

Anyway, won't fly it 3S anymore. It doesn't bring much. its heavier and the added speed doesn't really make it more fun IMO (plus, its not _that_ much faster).

I used a 250mah 3S and a 4040 prop, stock ESC/motor, did max throttle passes of ~5-10s nothing blew up. (i wouldn't recommend something with a lot more thrust than the 4040 cause i'm not sure the ESC would handle the amp draw)
Old Dec 02, 2012, 09:27 PM
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Originally Posted by SilentPilot View Post
I thought that using sub trim on these tiny linear servos was a sure way to mess them up...
Well, usually a servo will travel the same amount in opposite directions, so adding subtrim is nearly a guarantee of binding the servo in one direction. However, I modified the sub-trim AND the travel adjust, so it works out that they move to the same physical location in both directions.

But yes, you don't want to mess around with the sub-trim without checking things out in the servo monitor first. Otherwise, you could overdrive the servos.

- Jim
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Old Dec 02, 2012, 09:28 PM
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Originally Posted by macr0t0r View Post
...
2. Move the Elevator(Ch3) servo plug to the Pitch(Aux1/Ch6) channel.
...
Hi Macr0t0r, I'm finally getting around to trying your upgrade, but I'm stuck on step 2. So if you move the servo plug from Ch3 to Aux1/Ch6, where do you move the one that's already plugged into Aux1/Ch6?

Edit: Just for giggles, I powered up as is without touching that elevon servos, since I didn't know what to do with them, and I'm getting similar results as Lovespicyfood did in his post on the previous page. The left elevon works as ail and elev, though not the full deflections, and the right elevon works as elevator only.

Edit 2: I plugged the servo from Elev(Ch3) into Ail(Ch2) instead of following the instructions And now it seems to work as advertised. Can you confirm that's correct?

The only thing I'm still curious about is I can give full right ail, and the right elevon moves up, then I can add full up elev, and the right elevon will still move up a bit more. Same to the left, down, etc. It's not a lot, probably better than it was without your mod, but this is normal? It's what you get, too?

Can't wait to try it out! Thanks for doing the work and sharing with us!

Oh, and I guess I should ask about this, too. I used to have a mix from my gear ch to my elevator. I made it so with 'gear down' I got a little up elevator for hand launching, then I could switch to 'gear up' and be right back in trim. I was reading you are using the gear channel already for something? If so, is there another switch I could duplicate this with? Sorry, but I don't know squat when it comes to heli programming!
Last edited by xmech2k; Dec 02, 2012 at 10:01 PM.
Old Dec 03, 2012, 12:46 AM
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Originally Posted by macr0t0r View Post
Well, usually a servo will travel the same amount in opposite directions, so adding subtrim is nearly a guarantee of binding the servo in one direction. However, I modified the sub-trim AND the travel adjust, so it works out that they move to the same physical location in both directions.

But yes, you don't want to mess around with the sub-trim without checking things out in the servo monitor first. Otherwise, you could overdrive the servos.

- Jim
Nice one Jim, I'm looking forward to trying these settings

Tony
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Old Dec 03, 2012, 06:36 PM
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Originally Posted by xmech2k View Post
Hi Macr0t0r, I'm finally getting around to trying your upgrade, but I'm stuck on step 2. So if you move the servo plug from Ch3 to Aux1/Ch6, where do you move the one that's already plugged into Aux1/Ch6?
<snip>
Huh...nothing should initially be plugged into the Aux1/Ch6 port, as the Stryker only uses the first 4 channels in the stock configuration. ILoveSpicyFood also had to a similar swap, so you're not alone. Did I post the wrong receiver manual? I may have to pop open my Stryker and take a few pictures so that people can see the end result. Technically, the servo that is being controlled by the elevator channel needs to be plugged into the pitch channel. I can confirm that with the servo monitor on the DX8. However, the plug labels may not be correct in the PDF I linked to. In any case, assuming that the "Elevator" and "Aux" channels are swapped, I'd say your current setup is now correct.

Quote:
Originally Posted by xmech2k View Post
The only thing I'm still curious about is I can give full right ail, and the right elevon moves up, then I can add full up elev, and the right elevon will still move up a bit more. Same to the left, down, etc. It's not a lot, probably better than it was without your mod, but this is normal? It's what you get, too?
The E-Ring feature will not let me "max" the control throw from just a single input. I'm required to reserve what looks to be about 5% movement. Certainly a lot better than reserving nearly 50% movement when using elevons.

Quote:
Originally Posted by xmech2k View Post
Oh, and I guess I should ask about this, too. I used to have a mix from my gear ch to my elevator. I made it so with 'gear down' I got a little up elevator for hand launching, then I could switch to 'gear up' and be right back in trim. I was reading you are using the gear channel already for something? If so, is there another switch I could duplicate this with? Sorry, but I don't know squat when it comes to heli programming!
Ah...well...the "gear" channel is now the other rudder. You pulled out the Y-harness and plugged the two rudders into individual channels, right? Therefore, I moved the gear channel from the switch to the left trim toggle so that you can individually adjust one rudder channel in order to line up the two rudders. I then use the 3-position Flap switch to set the split-rudder air-brakes. You may be able to re-assign the gear switch as flaps (I'm not sure, as I don't have my radio with me). Using the gear switch to pop a little up-trim for launch is a good idea (I remember that from the full-size Stryker forum). I'll add that in this week.

- Jim
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