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Old Jan 10, 2013, 06:03 PM
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I live my life 12oz at a time
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Originally Posted by MARCOELDRAGON View Post
Now I want to add the telemetry module...
Please buy and install the air speed module so that we know how fast this baby goes...
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Old Jan 10, 2013, 06:48 PM
wedoitall is offline
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Originally Posted by Aaeolien View Post
Replaced rudder servo and flew today. Much better. Just need to now get the hand of flying it KE. Takes a bit more throttle to KE this plane then my EPP edge. And just need to get used to the feel of it. Chipped prop on landing the 2nd battery with a bouncer so ended that planes day since I didn't bring an extra with me. Happy though and it'll be good as new to fly tomorrow.
did you go with hs65mg? or the 85?

ha! man i had the same bouncy prop chip'n on 2nd battery . its alot different KE on this than epp planes thats for sure. I got my SFG's today, just gotta figure out how to mount them best

i used brand new epbuddy 3s 2200 lipos today, BIG difference. ill be buying more of these. blew my 2month old gens aces away.
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Old Jan 10, 2013, 07:04 PM
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got me some sfgs today. got any ideas on best way to install them?
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Old Jan 10, 2013, 08:08 PM
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Originally Posted by wedoitall View Post
got me some sfgs today. got any ideas on best way to install them?
I just used a couple of #3 button head screws. Make sure you wick some thin ca into the holes in the hard points of the tip plates.
Old Jan 10, 2013, 09:38 PM
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Originally Posted by MARCOELDRAGON View Post
OK here is something else to ponder a bit. If you disable the on-board BEC how do you bind the receiver which now has the UBEC lead plugged into the BAT/Bind port? I had to plug my ESC off of my test bench into my new AR8000 in order to bind it to my Edge when I swapped out the Orange with Sat I was using. Not that big a deal but a pain none the less. Now I want to add the telemetry module and guess what it has to plug into the bat bind port. So does this mean I have to do without the external UBEC in order to use the telemetry module?

In other news I got 4 flights in with the OS motor this morning and it went really nice. Very smooth and powerful without being abrupt. My trusty Thunderbird 54 handled it well with only a slight warming up. I limited WFO to no more than 5-7 seconds at a time. Was able to hover at about 1/3 throttle. Flew very nice and I am more than satisfied. I will get some data soon after I get some more flights on it. Was easily able to get the CG where I like it. Cut my timer back to 5 minutes just to be safe and had around 11.5 volts after landing with the 3 2200 batteries and 11.8 with the new 2800.
You can install one of these Castle Quick Connects which I do in all my planes....

You can also remove the red lead in this instead of in your ESC lead...

They come in very handy, and are inexpensive.

SteveT
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Old Jan 10, 2013, 10:51 PM
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Originally Posted by M.Putnam View Post
I just used a couple of #3 button head screws. Make sure you wick some thin ca into the holes in the hard points of the tip plates.

or:
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...ostcount=10954 Mine use tip end plates with blind nuts mounted behind them and 4-40 hex bolts with washers. I can use my fingers to install and remove.

Hey Wedoitall, where are all those notes you were talking about?
Old Jan 10, 2013, 10:55 PM
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Originally Posted by wedoitall View Post
got me some sfgs today. got any ideas on best way to install them?
Which ones?
Old Jan 10, 2013, 11:29 PM
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Rudder deflection tips n tricks......feel free to add or edit


  1. Have you tried adjusting the travel independently in servo setup? If all else fails. set everything on the rudders back to zero and start at the mechanicals and move on from there. Make sure your servo isn't slipping. Oh, the tail wheel bracket- one screw or two? If it's two, take one out so the bracket can swivel a little
  2. Make sure there is no binding at the servo end through the fuselage and at the control surface
  3. Remove the pull cables. Make sure the servo and arm is centered. Center and tape the rudder. Reattach the cables snug not super tight. If that fails maybe try the longer arm
  4. Even more, the servo's arm itself may not be perfectly perpendicular in relation to its housing
  5. DO make sure you are using the outer-most hole on the servo arm
  6. glued rudder hinges in a little too tight causing the rudder to mechanically bind on one side
  7. Check the rudder without the pull pull cables hooked up. Another way to check this is to slowly move the rudder stick and see if the rudder stops moving while you are still movin the stick. If so, you have a mechanical issue somewhere. If not, then the servo and rudder are doing exactly what it is set up to do, and you need to increase end points or dual rates or re center the servo arm or need a longer arm....
  8. rudder control horn glued in even as in the same amount sticking out of both side? Even if that is correct you could still have it cocked so that one side is more forward than the other
  9. a) is your control horn sticking out on both sides evenly? ( distance from hinge line...) good way to judge it is to deflect rudder until it touches fuse on both sides and measure angle....
  10. Is there any resistance in your pull pull? I had to open up the hole at the tail where the cable comes through (the cut was off and it was hanging up the cable). Also, check your ball joints at the control horns of the rudder, they may be hanging up too.

Is your servo arm perpendicular (more or less) to servo? if you need subtrim to straighten servo arm, try reversing it... sometimes it works... reversing arm helped me out.

Is your transmitter dual rates and end points maxed out?
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Last edited by wedoitall; Jan 11, 2013 at 12:21 AM. Reason: addition
Old Jan 10, 2013, 11:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dth7 View Post
Which ones?
i got the EF edge sfgs made my own tip plates. so did you just epoxy the tip plates on?
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Old Jan 10, 2013, 11:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wedoitall View Post
  1. Have you tried adjusting the travel independently in servo setup? If all else fails. set everything on the rudders back to zero and start at the mechanicals and move on from there. Make sure your servo isn't slipping. Oh, the tail wheel bracket- one screw or two? If it's two, take one out so the bracket can swivel a little
  2. Make sure there is no binding at the servo end through the fuselage and at the control surface
  3. Remove the pull cables. Make sure the servo and arm is centered. Center and tape the rudder. Reattach the cables snug not super tight. If that fails maybe try the longer arm
  4. Even more, the servo's arm itself may not be perfectly perpendicular in relation to its housing
  5. DO make sure you are using the outer-most hole on the servo arm
  6. glued rudder hinges in a little too tight causing the rudder to mechanically bind on one side
  7. Check the rudder without the pull pull cables hooked up. Another way to check this is to slowly move the rudder stick and see if the rudder stops moving while you are still movin the stick. If so, you have a mechanical issue somewhere. If not, then the servo and rudder are doing exactly what it is set up to do, and you need to increase end points or dual rates or re center the servo arm or need a longer arm....
  8. rudder control horn glued in even as in the same amount sticking out of both side? Even if that is correct you could still have it cocked so that one side is more forward than the other
  9. a) is your control horn sticking out on both sides evenly? ( distance from hinge line...) good way to judge it is to deflect rudder until it touches fuse on both sides and measure angle....
  10. Is there any resistance in your pull pull? I had to open up the hole at the tail where the cable comes through (the cut was off and it was hanging up the cable). Also, check your ball joints at the control horns of the rudder, they may be hanging up too.
Pretty good list. On your rudder binding issue you can actually fix it or at least make it better using a spoon! Take a spoon and press on the balsa with the smooth rounded backside. Apply enough pressure to press down the wood a bit. Don't break your plane! Be careful and you can get a few more degrees of travel.
Old Jan 11, 2013, 10:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wedoitall View Post
5. DO make sure you are using the outer-most hole on the servo arm
I would refine this one to say:

If you are using the stock recommended HS-65MG arm, use the outermost hole which is known to provide 45 degrees of travel with DX7s/DX8/8FGS. If you are using the 3DHS long servo arm, use the second to last outermost hole.
Old Jan 11, 2013, 11:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arnav View Post
I would refine this one to say:

If you are using the stock recommended HS-65MG arm, use the outermost hole which is known to provide 45 degrees of travel with DX7s/DX8/8FGS. If you are using the 3DHS long servo arm, use the second to last outermost hole.
As a general rule... but it depends on radios and other mechanical factors actually.
Old Jan 11, 2013, 02:14 PM
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Quick question.

How important/vital are the 3D long arms for getting the most throw and servo performance out of your Edge?

I haven't begun building mine yet. Wanted the 3D arms and I spoke to 3DHS and was informed that it could be late Feb - mid Mar. before they would be back in stock.
Old Jan 11, 2013, 02:27 PM
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Originally Posted by pilot_keeter View Post
Quick question.

How important/vital are the 3D long arms for getting the most throw and servo performance out of your Edge?

I haven't begun building mine yet. Wanted the 3D arms and I spoke to 3DHS and was informed that it could be late Feb - mid Mar. before they would be back in stock.
I think it's very important on the rudder and elevator but not at all necessary on the ailerons. Without the long arms on the rudder and elevator you won't get the necessary throw.
Old Jan 11, 2013, 02:38 PM
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Why turnerm if there are known setups for which they are not required? Would it not be fair to say:

It depends on your setup. There are known setups which can achieve at least 45 degrees on Elev/Rud without the long arms. From my experience with this Plane, and just as an example (I am sure others can add more), these combinations don't require them:
DX7s/DX8 + AR8000 + HS-65MG.
8FGS + R6208 + HS-65MG.

On the other hand, there are setups which are known not to work (I think basically any which involves a DX6i).

Why not put the Plane together and see what you get? You may be fine if your combination is similar to the above and you wouldn't need to wait or mod something together (as simple as it may be).


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