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Jan 08, 2013, 01:08 AM
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SDSURFnGLIDE's Avatar
Ok...here is my newest rendition of the rusty frame...need to clean up the wiring and get some matching props...but i will be using wooden props in the end...
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Jan 08, 2013, 01:34 AM
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SeismicCWave's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by featherodd
So around 15-16" booms?
Yes, I was actually stuck with 15" booms when I used to get the 30" carbon weave tubes. I use the motor mount with the vibration isolator and that brings the motors in 1/2" each boom so my motor to motor distance is 29".
Jan 08, 2013, 08:25 AM
13brv3's Avatar
Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by SDSURFnGLIDE
Ok...here is my newest rendition of the rusty frame...need to clean up the wiring and get some matching props...but i will be using wooden props in the end...
Interesting battery mounts. I might have to try that. I also like the makeshift gear leg plates

Cheers,
Rusty
Jan 08, 2013, 09:45 AM
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SDSURFnGLIDE's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by 13brv3
Interesting battery mounts. I might have to try that. I also like the makeshift gear leg plates

Cheers,
Rusty
Thanks rusty...yea...want to see if the side saddle battery mounts will work...and i only had 3 of the tube leg mounts...so i will be ordering a set art the end of the week probably...but that should work for now...
Jan 13, 2013, 05:11 AM
Registered User
If using Rusty's Universal Anti-Vibration Mounts with a UAP-1 setup as a Y6, is it ok to put two mounts onto one Delrin block? (top & bottom)
Jan 13, 2013, 10:14 AM
13brv3's Avatar
Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by featherodd
If using Rusty's Universal Anti-Vibration Mounts with a UAP-1 setup as a Y6, is it ok to put two mounts onto one Delrin block? (top & bottom)
Sure, one block is fine. That's all I use for any coaxial setup, and the anti-vibration mounts are actually less of a strain on the block.

Rusty
Jan 13, 2013, 05:26 PM
Registered User

Rusty have your seen this Super Simple Gimbal?


I came across this today and amazed by the ideas that come out of RCGroups!

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show....php?t=1793759

The pieces would look to be easy to cut and you could offer additional gimbal solution at a fraction of the cost for your frames...

Hats off to Crezzee design... amazing and simple!
Jan 13, 2013, 05:28 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by jxvot
I came across this today and amazed by the ideas that come out of RCGroups!

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show....php?t=1793759

The pieces would look to be easy to cut and you could offer additional gimbal solution at a fraction of the cost for your frames...

Hats off to Crezzee design... amazing and simple!
I saw that thread as well and am comptemplating it for my small FPV quad. I just want to be able to change my APM code to do the mixing rather than get a KK board.

I would support Rusty cutting parts
Jan 13, 2013, 07:57 PM
13brv3's Avatar
Thread OP
I saw that when it was first posted. It's definitely simple and clever, but not likely something I'd make. Fortunately, it's simple enough that anyone should be able to make their own.

Cheers,
Rusty
Jan 13, 2013, 08:56 PM
Registered User

Recent updates to asymmetrical X8 on Rusty's UAP-1


Finally got around to adding Rusty's leg mounts with CF tube. Much more rigid and stable than my previous G-10 Cinestar style legs. And I saved almost 200g in weight. The rest of the updates were mostly electrical like a second battery connection from the power distribution board and an extension-PCB for lighting and camera trigger. I changed up the mixer so that motors 1&2 are on arm 1 and motor 3&4 are on arm 2 and so on. I also managed to get MK electronics stack lower. The pics are without its hood. Need to tidy up some wiring but otherwise it is ready to go. Flew it today with two 4s 5800mah batteries and got almost 16 min just hovering at 15-20'. Figure I'll still get around 12 min. with GH2 mounted.

Shawn
Jan 13, 2013, 10:14 PM
Registered User
This is a bit off topic, but I'm thinking of getting a cheap ready-to-fly quad that I can use to practice more aggressive maneuvers, nose-in flying, etc. so I'm more comfortable when I take my Rusty quad up in the air. Something that would be ok indoors but is also ok to fly outside in a light breeze. Blade has the mQX for $150 but I'm also seeing 4-channel quads for as little as $40 like the Syma X1. Any of you have suggestions based on experience with these things?

I use a sim on my computer but I'm thinking that actual flying will provide a better way of practicing.
Jan 14, 2013, 12:53 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by dcoplan
This is a bit off topic, but I'm thinking of getting a cheap ready-to-fly quad that I can use to practice more aggressive maneuvers, nose-in flying, etc. so I'm more comfortable when I take my Rusty quad up in the air. Something that would be ok indoors but is also ok to fly outside in a light breeze. Blade has the mQX for $150 but I'm also seeing 4-channel quads for as little as $40 like the Syma X1. Any of you have suggestions based on experience with these things?

I use a sim on my computer but I'm thinking that actual flying will provide a better way of practicing.
WLToys v949 is a deadly little quad that will natively bind with the 9x radios stock modules. The v929 is the older version without the super chinese LEDz. Both are clones of the Blade mQX and I believe spare parts are interchangeable. They have BNF versions of both the 949 and 929, as well a much smaller quad the v939 ladybug and a fantastic little single rotor heli, the v911. All will bind with a 9x radio's stock module and they're all fantastic.

The default software of the 9x is a mess, so it's strongly recommended to flash it with latest er9x (or Open9x) firmware. For this, the SmartieParts programming board is the easiest but you can also simply use a USBasp (tutorial). The the new version of the 9x, the 9XR, already has er9x preinstalled and has an easily accessible programming port, but it is currently out of stock and doesn't come with the a compatible module. I believe you can pick up this module on ebay and use it to bind a 9XR with the v9xx series models.

If you already have a DSM compatible radio like a Spektrum, you might want to stick with the Blade though a 9x radio and a couple BNF clones are similar in price.

Another option is a decent programable DEVO radio plus Walkera's BNF models. Their stuff a bit more expensive but the latest Deviation firmware could make their supported DEVO radios quite a bit more interesting.
Jan 16, 2013, 01:32 PM
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janoots2's Avatar
Sweet setup Mactadpole! Where did you find those (metal?) black standoffs that flange out on the ends?
Jan 16, 2013, 01:44 PM
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janoots2's Avatar
Hey Rusty, any thoughts on adding something like this to your product line? I've been looking for a way to mount my gps centered and on top of my rig above my battery. The top could be designed to accommodate the different flight controllers' GPS designs. A "universal GPS mount/roll over cage" if you will. Inset on the top though to protect the gps and then the cage would protect whatever you decide to put under it from a roll over. I'd buy one :-)

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Jan 16, 2013, 02:22 PM
13brv3's Avatar
Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by janoots2
Hey Rusty, any thoughts on adding something like this to your product line? I've been looking for a way to mount my gps centered and on top of my rig above my battery. The top could be designed to accommodate the different flight controllers' GPS designs. A "universal GPS mount/roll over cage" if you will. Inset on the top though to protect the gps and then the cage would protect whatever you decide to put under it from a roll over. I'd buy one :-)
Man, I'd better check my workshop for hidden cameras

The bad news is that I made these mostly for crash protection, and after smashing a few in drop tests, I wasn't happy, so I scrapped the idea. They also use tab-in-slot construction which I try to avoid at all costs. The variation in G10 thickness just makes it impossible to maintain any decent fit with tabs and slots.

Lots of people are starting to put GPS antennas on the arms, or just on an accessory plate mounted to some unused block holes on the center plate.

Rusty


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