Fr3aK Zone - Page 42 - RC Groups
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May 06, 2012, 11:44 AM
rcgeorge's Avatar
Tom they look better every time you guys all do great work. Cheers
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May 06, 2012, 11:52 AM
Father of Fr3aK, DLG Pilot
tom43004's Avatar
Thanks George. I'm still chasing the cosmetic stuff but everything else is there.

Here is another delivery today... built with radio, battery, switchjack and balanced to 272g. I'm driving this one down to it's new home this afternoon, and hopefully flying it a bit before handing it over

Also, some tails I've been playing with.

...and yes Gerald, I learned from my mistakes on the first fuse. I put the servos on their sides so the fuse shape is better suited to handling the launch forces that try to pull off the nose, and I also added more wiggle room in this one. Believe it or not, this is spacious compared to the last fuse mold.
May 06, 2012, 12:11 PM
Time for me to Fly...
Mr. Wiz's Avatar

When you get to the point where you're selling the spread tow tails, I want a set. I saw them at Toledo. They looked wonderful and very strong.
May 06, 2012, 12:14 PM
Jim C
ShadowFalken's Avatar
I could fell a small tree with the spread tow tail I saw.
May 06, 2012, 10:55 PM
Time for me to Fly...
Mr. Wiz's Avatar
Well, I got about a solid 1.5 hours of flying on the Fr3aK today. It started out quite blustery and then became very calm as the evening settled in. What can I say .... Wow! I can easily out launch my B3 by 20 feet with this plane. We had a glitchy How High and so we took it back out. My best launches came later in the evening anyway. I'm going to say my best are in the 175 range and for me that's pretty darn good. It's gotta be the plane. It makes me look better than I am.

How does it fly? It locks in so nicely and it is very smooth. I didnt reach for a trim adjustment once. I did adjust some throws and expo and the camber but I'm amazed at how well it flew right out of the box. I can out range my B3 by a long shot. This baby covers some sky quickly, even with several mm of camber dialed in. It turns on a dime too! It's not as forgiving as my B3 or so it seemed to me. Maybe it was just me and getting use to a new plane. No, I'm pretty sure the Fr3aK can be tossed around more than the B3 but still. It's very smooth.

I flew it in overcast mostly dead air and I didn't really hook any lift other than a small updraft along a tree row. It was enough to keep you up but not anything you could climb on. I'm going to be very interested in seeing how well it signals lift.

As fast as people say it is..... and yes it can be flown very fast. It still stays up there for a long time. It also slows right down too. It wont slow down as much as my old Taboo did but it's perfectly manageable. I made many nice hand catches with it. In fact, I'm better at that with this plane than the B3 I've been flying for the last 6 months. To be honest, I liked the speed.

Very nice work Tom. You should be very proud of the effort. The only thing I'd change... Next one I get is going to be green.

May 06, 2012, 11:26 PM
Charles Martin
BavarianCharles's Avatar
Originally Posted by Mr. Wiz
Well, I got about a solid 1.5 hours of flying on the Fr3aK today. To be honest, I liked the speed.
Speed is good - wait until you find yourself downwind and have to come home against a breeze, and watch it penetrate. Makes a Blaster look like it's standing still.

Tell us more - CG, control surface throws, etc.

May 07, 2012, 07:18 AM
Father of Fr3aK, DLG Pilot
tom43004's Avatar
Did somebody say GREEN?

(This one is leaving today via UPS)

May 07, 2012, 08:12 AM
But I am learning
I_Can't_Fly's Avatar
Ok, so it's time to build this thing. I got all the pieces out last night to see what will be involved for the pieces I have. I need to get some feedback on how others have approached things.

1) I need to make hard points for the wing bolts. I can think of two methods. Making a plywood block glued in place and tapped, or using a modified T-nut bonded in place with some of the neck sticking up into the wing. Open to other seggestion, or comments on the two I listed.

2) I need to install servos. I have some JR 285's and they are a tight fit. I will run pushrods instead if string/spring. The 285's will need some modifications to the output spline and horn to make it slimmer. This should free up some room, but still not much. I am looking for seggestions on mounting them. I am leaning towards making a block to glue the servo to at a set angle. However I will still not be able to remove the horn. It will have the pushrod connection done out of the plane, and glue it into position once everything is aligned the best I can get it. Again, I am open to seggestions please.

If anyone has an pointers, or good pictures of their installs, please post them for others to get ideas rolling for their own installs.

Thanks, Brian P.
May 07, 2012, 08:26 AM
Father of Fr3aK, DLG Pilot
tom43004's Avatar

I use 1/8 ply epoxied into the fuse and then drill / tap. Harden the threads afterward with CA and kicker, then retap. Never strips out and it's more than enough.

As for servos, I use smaller stuff but a 285 will fit unmodified. Put a popsicle stick down the bottom of the fuse and this should provide the right angle for you to mount the horns.

Others? Anybody have 285s installed that can show us an example?
May 07, 2012, 11:41 AM
Transplant Chey WY from Reno
Thermaln2's Avatar

Have you ever measured how thick the wing spreadtow carbon layer is after layup? Just curious. Is the spread tow the 30 g stuff, or 60/80? I am trying to find out a thickness for core cutting incorporation.

Are you using that in the booms at all?

May 07, 2012, 11:47 AM
Father of Fr3aK, DLG Pilot
tom43004's Avatar
The spread tow that is used in wings is 80g/sm Textreme and in normal layups it's around 6 thousandths thick. The vladimir spread tow that I use on tails is 45g/sm and around 4 thousandths.
May 07, 2012, 12:40 PM
But I am learning
I_Can't_Fly's Avatar
Thanks Tom. I found this picture of your install, and see what you meant by the popsicle stick. It also looks like you drilled a hole in the side for screw access. Did is cause any structural issues?

Tom's fuse picture

Brian P.
May 07, 2012, 12:50 PM
Father of Fr3aK, DLG Pilot
tom43004's Avatar
If you glue in the servos and make a hole for removal of the horn screw, put the holes on the side opposite the throwing peg. Failure on that side of the fuse (compression) is far less likely than if you put them on the throwing peg side.
May 07, 2012, 02:15 PM
But I am learning
I_Can't_Fly's Avatar
Thanks Tom.

I hear that several others have done pod arrangements with 285's (cough GaryO, cough rdjay) and was wondering if they could post some pictures please

Brian P.
May 07, 2012, 02:38 PM
a.k.a. Matt Nelson
MattN's Avatar
Originally Posted by tom43004
If you glue in the servos and make a hole for removal of the horn screw, put the holes on the side opposite the throwing peg. Failure on that side of the fuse (compression) is far less likely than if you put them on the throwing peg side.
I'm not sure I understand this - I would have thought that tensional failure would be almost impossible with a kevlar pod, whereas compressional failure is more likely. In that case, I would have assumed that you would want to keep the side that experiences the most compressional strain intact to maximize its strength. I.e., put the holes on the tensional side - the side with the throwing peg. Where is my logic failing me?

Note that this advice also tends to lead to the pull strings running down the side of the fuse opposite the throwing peg, and conflicts with Tom's draft assembly instructions:
The elevator pushrod / string should run on the same side as the throwing peg.
(I assume this is driven by the potential for ballast to interfere with the elevator operation on launch).

Not that it matters much to me personally - my fuse is already assembled with holes on the peg side and strings running down the peg side... We'll see if it explodes...

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