We’ll do some side by side tuning at the Concho.

Soon this week she will be done. I bought a complete kit from Hans. This was a great kit with no problems found. I found this thread very helpful and thank all involved.

Steve, that's a beauty ! Congrats

Thank you.

Is Hans still building these hull kits?

Originally Posted by OhioMike

Is Hans still building these hull kits?

I beleive he is still making the kits. Here is some contact information.

https://www.theamya.org/boats/canterburyj/

Ed

Yes I am still making kits but I am way behind and trying to get caught up and keep my life on track. New orders should ship late spring.

I am putting together #625 and using Hans’ beam and hatch kit supplements.

I usually pick up, carry and lower my boat into the water with my hand inside the hatch rather than using a “lifter”. My prior boats had decks that were thin ply that was also planked, making a rather stiff deck that would easily carry the load of the weight of the boat.

After installing Hans’ beams with the oval cutouts, I can see the longitudinal hatch beams will be some distance away from the hatch opening. On this boat the deck will be just painted thin birch ply so some of the deck will be unsupported from the beams to the edge of deck at the hatch.

Question: Have those of you that have used Hans’ system found that it will support the weight of boat when being carried as I describe or does the deck need reinforcement there?

I have some about 1/8” thick aircraft grade spruce I can sister to the underside of the deck or to the beams, but I would rather not add the weight up that high if I don’t need to.

I used the beams from the kit and it was strong enough to pick up by the open hatch. However I used some heaver 5.8 oz fiber glass on the deck.

Ed

Thanks, Ed.

Not reading any outcry not to do it, I went ahead and sistered the very light thin spruce with CA on the transverse and longitudinal beams that surround the hatch opening. With the lead glued on, lifting by the reinforced beams feels strong enough so there won’t be any problems.

The few added grams of weigh are probably a wash in what the thin unplanked deck saved. It’s like building an old balsa airplane- weight only where necessary.

Now on to fairing the FG/lead joint.

I lift by the hatch all the time. Plenty strong enough.

Photos and detailing of Canterbury J boats wanted.
I intend to place an order with Hans for a Canterbury J kit.
I have browsed and subscribed to all of the “J” build logs.
I would appreciate the postings of any additional details and photos of your Canterbury J.
I am new to the J class have only seen two J boats in person.
I am interested in seeing more of the details of both the above and below deck layouts of numerous Canterbury J boats, the sail control mechanisms, and the deck layouts.
Thanks!

Attached are photos of my 2nd build.

Steve

Additional notes.
I bought Hans’ complete package and had him fit the lead to the keel stub. It is tricky to do and if it is off, the boat will not handle correctly. He has the jigs to do it correctly and it is worth what he is charging. His hatch kit is first rate, but note that the wider ends go forward to make deck planking easier.

I didn’t like the hardware he supplied so I sourced brass deck hardware from Roger at Model Yacht Fittings. I used rigging screws from Midwest Model Yachting and a “kicking strap end” and “kicking strap body” from SailsEtc. Han’s hardware for these items will work, but I use the sourced parts on other builds and like how they look and work.

If you are not going to plank the deck (I was not) then definitely buy the sheet of ply Hans sells. It can be difficult to find thin ply at 48” long. It’s not a bad idea even if you intend to plank but consider that it adds weight high up where you don’t want it.

I also used a dual arm system for the rudder. It’s not really necessary, but I think it takes more slop out of the rudder movement.

And if you are going to race it, don’t forget to order the Class required bumper.

Thanks. I also intend to let Hans fit the keel and rudder too. I assumed his expertise these area would be worth every penny.
Also I like the brass fittings source, nice work.
The dual arm rudder setup is a nice tip.
Good point about the bow bumper as well.