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Oct 12, 2011, 09:35 PM
MultiCopterPilot & Film Maker
crazyj's Avatar
BTW, I just tried the new DEV code on my MultiWiiCopter.com Scarab HexiiKopta with great results! No more need for the PPM SUM device with my Spektrum RX!

Thanks to AlexInParis and friends!

Of course this is a dev code, so you use at your own risk!

UPDATE: I just found out that the P value needed to be increased to 11 to fly well - very strange. Don't recommend the DEV code now..

Last edited by crazyj; Oct 12, 2011 at 10:02 PM.
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Oct 12, 2011, 11:02 PM
disenfranchised...
AP_OZ's Avatar
Great development alex!! should make 6 engines much more obtainable for people now!

p.s. like the look of your hex Jason - have you flown it yet? if so, what do you think?
Oct 12, 2011, 11:03 PM
disenfranchised...
AP_OZ's Avatar
forgot to ask.....

is there any other new features on the dev version?
Oct 12, 2011, 11:17 PM
MultiCopterPilot & Film Maker
crazyj's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by AP_OZ
Great development alex!! should make 6 engines much more obtainable for people now!

p.s. like the look of your hex Jason - have you flown it yet? if so, what do you think?
Thanks John, yes I flew it with an old Warthox board with Wii gyro using the DEV code because I didn't want to modify the board for a HEX and use a PPM sum. So with that said the copter flies great but I think there's something very strange with the new DEV code. With the stock PIDs (p=4) the copter was really soft flight/gyros were not crisp like usual. The only way to get the copter to fly like my others on 1.7/1.8 was to increase the P to 11!

I'm going back to 1.8/1.7 code and will wait for my new Paris board to arrive in the mail. Then a real flight test will proceed.

Cheers,
Jason
Oct 13, 2011, 01:58 PM
Part 107 Certified
Mike SF's Avatar

Orientation help


I read in another thread that using orange or green blades are the best and easiest remedy to keep your orientation. So I painted the two front blades of my tricopter in orange and it worked really well. Very easy to spot and follow when you are flying. The paint added 1g per blade and I balanced them after the paint job.
Oct 13, 2011, 02:02 PM
Part 107 Certified
Mike SF's Avatar

Engine clips became loose


Today, after changing the battery, the tricopter started to twitch. When I came home I saw that one of the motor shaft clips became loose. I assume this was the reason for the twitching, since now I can push the prop down without too much pressure.
Oct 13, 2011, 02:03 PM
MultiCopterPilot & Film Maker
crazyj's Avatar
OK! The HexiiKopta is complete and flying great! The build went very smoothly and quickly. Even the first flight was perfect! The Hexii came out to about 3 lbs. (1360g) ready to fly with the GoPro and a servo-tilt camera mount. FPV gear will be installed shortly as I'm making the FPV gear modular for all my models. Anyways, below is a time-lapse video of the build and the first flight. Enjoy!

MWC Scarab Hexii - Build and First Flight (2 min 43 sec)
Oct 13, 2011, 02:32 PM
DiaLFonZo - UAV/Drone
Dialfonzo's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike SF
Today, after changing the battery, the tricopter started to twitch. When I came home I saw that one of the motor shaft clips became loose. I assume this was the reason for the twitching, since now I can push the prop down without too much pressure.
Check the other end there is probably a screw to attach the shaft to the bell of the motor.
If not... check if the shaft is all way down in the bell hole.
Oct 13, 2011, 04:11 PM
manual flying apologist
Adidas4275's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike SF
I read in another thread that using orange or green blades are the best and easiest remedy to keep your orientation. So I painted the two front blades of my tricopter in orange and it worked really well. Very easy to spot and follow when you are flying. The paint added 1g per blade and I balanced them after the paint job.
what did you paint it with?
Oct 13, 2011, 05:16 PM
Part 107 Certified
Mike SF's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Adidas4275
what did you paint it with?
I used Rust-Oleuem Fluorescent and sprayed two layers. Nothing fancy, but the rotating props are highly visible afterwards.
Oct 13, 2011, 05:19 PM
Part 107 Certified
Mike SF's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dialfonzo
Check the other end there is probably a screw to attach the shaft to the bell of the motor.
If not... check if the shaft is all way down in the bell hole.
Yes, there is a set screw which looks tight to me. Also the shaft is aligned with the bottom the same as the other motors, maybe slightly more. I will check once I get the clips back in and also use a little lock tight for the set screw.
Oct 13, 2011, 05:20 PM
manual flying apologist
Adidas4275's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike SF
I used Rust-Oleuem Fluorescent and sprayed two layers. Nothing fancy, but the rotating props are highly visible afterwards.
great idea, i must try it

why just one blade? to save weight?
Oct 13, 2011, 05:31 PM
Part 107 Certified
Mike SF's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Adidas4275
great idea, i must try it

why just one blade? to save weight?
2 blades, both front blades. The clearly mark the front "face" of the copter.
Oct 13, 2011, 11:46 PM
Registered User
crazyj another fine video. What is the silver material youre using to balance the props? What do you think about the motor and legs visible in your video - are you going to move things around or change the position of the gopro?
Oct 14, 2011, 12:01 AM
MultiCopterPilot & Film Maker
crazyj's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by lloydh
crazyj another fine video. What is the silver material youre using to balance the props? What do you think about the motor and legs visible in your video - are you going to move things around or change the position of the gopro?
Thank you sir!

I built the Scarab WRONG with the front legs in front of the booms, they should have been behind the booms instead. I have already fixed this by switching the left and right legs - perfect!

The camera is mounted under the center section on a servo operated tilt mount. I can control the angle of tilt on a slider switch and easily get the motor out of the video frame.

Here's a pic showing the correct leg placement:


And quick pics of my camera mount & FPV stuff mounted:


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