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May 22, 2011, 05:33 PM
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Build Log

Thomas Morse S-4C Scout - Peter Rake Plan


Welcome to my attempt at a creating a build log of Peter Rakes plan of the Thomas Morse S-4C Scout included with the January 2008 Model World magazine.

Following a post on a previous build tread. Peter Rake suggested I create a log and hopefully you will be able to help me out if I get stuck!

If it all goes to plan and Iíll end up with a completed build thread and a model that is capable of more than a single flight. In any case youíll get to see the maiden even if it doesn't end well!

I started the build today and began by repairing the plan where it had split on the folds.

Never having built a plane like this Iím unsure what order to build in, so I started by cutting and gluing up the fuselage sides because this looked the easiest.

Then I moved on to cutting out the ribs for the wing and the top and bottom sections of the fuselage this took a lot longer than expected but at least I now have a kit of parts.


Peter
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May 22, 2011, 09:08 PM
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trumps's Avatar
excellent, tagging along for the ride mate.

Cheers
Craig
May 23, 2011, 05:51 PM
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Peter,
I'll be on hand to offer any advice I can. Just remember, if you're puzzling over something, ask before attempting it on your own. It's much less frustrating to hear advice about how to do it, rather than comments about how it should have been done.

Pete
May 23, 2011, 08:36 PM
Neophyte hacker
portablevcb's Avatar
And Pete is really good about telling us how we screwed up part of his design

But, his advice is sound. Some of us tend to get impatient and not want to wait a day or two for an answer. We end up paying for that in the end. So, ask away.

charlie
May 24, 2011, 04:18 PM
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Hi

I haven't got much further with the build all Iíve done is glue the front of the fuselage to the tail (and the plan!). I need to get a larger building board to assemble the wings on.

I have a question about my proposed location of the servos. I will be fitting a brushless outrunner on the front of the firewall so I was thinking about mounting the servos to the horizontal ply plate keeping the weight close to the COG.

Before I glue it all together could you take a look at the pictures showing the proposed location of the servos and battery and let me know if this will be ok or if I should mount them further back under the cockpit?

Peter
May 24, 2011, 04:27 PM
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Peter,
With a model as short nosed as this, get the weight as far forward as you can. So, if it will fit, mount the battery vertically, immediately behind the firewall, and the servos as far forward as you can and still have access to them.

Pete
May 24, 2011, 04:56 PM
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Thread OP
Pete,

Thanks for the quick reply. Great idea too.
The battery will fit vertically and I'll be able to access it through the bottom between the under carraige.
I'll be able to move the servos forward too.

Thanks
Peter
May 27, 2011, 06:43 PM
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The rudder and tailplane are now assembled.

What is the best way to connect the servos to the rudder/elevator controls?


Peter
May 28, 2011, 04:30 PM
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Peter, the model was designed with closed loop controls in mind. At this size, 20 lb strain monofilament fishing line works fine, but many prefer beading wire - a nylon coated stranded wire available from craft shops. Tigertail is one brand I've seen locally.
I nearly always run my cables direct from the servo arms to the control horns, securing each end with crimp of brass tube and a spot of CA. It doesn't allow any adjustment, other than at the transmitter, but has never caused me any problems. You get things aligned, and tensioned, properly before crimping the tubes and adding the spot of CA. So, clamp the surfaces level with fin/tailplane, centre the servos, get the cables adjusted so there is no slack (you don't need them super tight), then crimp and glue.

As regards where the cables exit the fuselage, glue in some short nylon tubes and surround them with some scrap balsa. Then sand flush with the fuselage sides.

It's easier to cover the bottom of the fuselage after you have all the linkages made up. Otherwise it can become a bit fraught. This has, upon occasion, been known to lead to the model making sudden, terminal, contact with the model room wall.

Pete
May 28, 2011, 04:42 PM
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kdahlhaus's Avatar
I saw this in a back issue and always thought it had a lot of character. Following along with you on this build.
May 30, 2011, 05:17 PM
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I spent today building the wings. This is the first set of built up wings Iíve ever made and I think they turned out ok. They sure took a lot longer to make than I thought they would.

I had a couple of problems the first being I miscounted the number of ribs required. I was two 1/8 ribs short, luckily I had the foresight to cut a few blanks as spares so this was easily overcome. Not so easy was the glue sticking the wings to the plan, so the plan now looks a little worse for wear because it tears so easily when separated. What do you guys use to stop the wood sticking to the plans?

Kdahlhaus, I too saw this in a back issue. I brought a load of old magazines from eBay and this is the second model Iíve attempted to build. The first being a Tony Nijhuis 40" BAE Hawk from RCM&E July 2006 that I converted to 4 cell electric. The Scout seems to tick all the boxes for me after getting the building bug! My thanks to Peter for the design and help!

Peter
May 30, 2011, 05:40 PM
Neophyte hacker
portablevcb's Avatar
I use doculam to protect the plans, because I have a ton of it. You can also use wax paper. Other stuff as well. Backing from covering film. Sandwich wrap.

charlie
May 31, 2011, 07:51 AM
Veni, Vidi, Napi
catrancher's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheName
What do you guys use to stop the wood sticking to the plans?
Or my current absolute favorite courtesy of glewis (Glenn) here on RCG:

Parchment Paper

Available in your local grocery store. I like it much better than my old favorite, waxed paper.

Tom
May 31, 2011, 02:52 PM
Registered User
Peter,
To some extent it depends on what glue you use, and if you cut parts (mostly fuselage uprights) in situ. If you do, you're likely to cut through whatever the plan is covered with anyway and the glue, especially CA, will stick things you don't want stuck.
Any of the ideas mentioned will work well but my favourite is the backing film from Litespan. The beauty being that Litespan can be stored just as easily without the backing as with it. Also, since I always apply Balsaloc to entire sheets of Litespan immediately prior to use, I usually have a few backing sheets around somewhere.

Pete
Jun 13, 2011, 03:09 PM
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Thanks for the tips guys. I was using a cheap greaseproof paper which I think is the same as waxed paper, I think it was cheap because it doesnít have much wax content and lets the CA through.

The motor mount and motor are now fitted. This took 2 attempts to get right due to the epoxy I brought from the 99p store not setting and it having to be removed and rebuilt.

The cowl is assembled and ready to shape.

I thought the wings were too easy to bend along the length so I threaded a rod of carbon through the ribs and glued it to the top of the spar. This had the desired increase in rigidity but I also introduced a very slight negative dihedral. I hope the covering will pull it out.

The tail feathers are now glued up and covered in Solite. The LHS said he hadn't been asked to Litespan for 10 years and recommended Solite.

Next step is to fix the servos and cable runs then finish the fuselage.


Peter


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