Got the info.
Form what I understand you need to use two permanent mixes with Flaps Master and RA or LA Slave.

Gerald you did not touch the flight modes in this article. The priority of the flight modes for a beginner would be used as a great start point. I think it is important for an initial setup.

"Have a program that supports flight modes for launch, speed, cruise, and float. There needs to be a launch preset switch that enables the launch mode. There needs to be a three position switch for selecting between speed, cruise, and float. Why a single three position switch? Less controls to fiddle with, so simpler operation. If it isn't simple it takes thought. If it takes thought, then you are not flying the plane."

"Flying. Start with native speed mode (or cruise, or whatever has the flaperons even with the tab). Do some gentle hand tosses and get the elevator trimmed out. DO NOT use the elevator trim lever on the front of the transmitter. Use the servo centering in the programming.

Do enough of a toss to get a touch of altitude, and check that the plane is suitably stable. Gentle DL at an upwards angle, then guiding it with the elevator stick, is a good approach. Check stability via dive test or whatever you are comfortable with. Make preliminary adjustments to CG, and retrim the elevator centering in the programming to re-establish proper glide path. CG and elevator trim are interrelated.

Now that one flight mode is flying fine, set up some preliminary camber settings for the others. If one has no information on what to set up, then these guidelines may help:

Generally speaking, speed mode has the bottom of the wing in the back half relatively flat. One can check that with a straightedge or even a piece of paper. This setting is also usually optimal for launch.

Cruise mode generally has about 2 degrees or 2mm more down on the flaperons.

float setting generally has about 3 to 4 degrees down on the flaperons, from speed mode. 4 degrees for Zone, 3.5 for Edge, ... If in doubt, it is better to use a little less than a little more."

Etc...

Sometimes flight modes are called flight conditions. Sometimes it is just a couple of mixers you set up. What you do is transmitter programming dependent. I believe I talked about what you want the surfaces to do. How, is dependent on your transmitter. What are you looking for?

Gerald

Originally Posted by djcb

...

Also I did increase the spring tension on my JR9303 and it reduced the cross control on the right stick somewhat. I was thinking of trying an even stronger spring but I do not know where to buy stiffer springs - any suggestions?

Dave

Dave,

Sorry I missed your question! Give these guys a try; they can probably help you out:

http://www.radiosouthrc.com/tx_spring.htm

Gerald

What did you mean about the aileron servo horn matching the droop?

Could you rephrase your question??? Was it directed to me?

Gerald

Gerald, thanks for the info on stronger transmitter springs. I placed an order today and will be interested to see how they perform.

One question remains. With the stronger springs how much tension do you recommend? I'm assuming that with the stronger springs that you start at the low end of the tension adjustment and fine tune from there.

Dave

I guess I am just looking for some clarification on this:

That gets rid of the preliminaries. Now on to the plane setup.

Start with the flaperons. Set the flap stick (it IS on a stick, right??? It should be on a stick and ONLY on a stick) and set it at half stick. Now set the servo subtrims for these two servos to match their angle of droop. This can be seen clearly by looking from the back of the plane with the tail held high. Match them exactly. Wiggle the sticks to make sure.

Now move the stick back up. Adjust the servo travel limit in that direction so that the flaperons are even with each other. Now move the stick full down, and repeat for the other direction of servo travel.

Now when the flap stick is moved, these surfaces should exactly match each other's travel. I've yet to have someone hand me a plane to help program where this was the case.

Originally Posted by Xptical

I guess I am just looking for some clarification on this:

Those instructions worked great for me I was having all sorts of trouble trying to get equal travel with the flaps.

Seems logical now that I did it. Set at half travel , balance the movement to that point by using sub trims, then set the end points at both extremes of travel with the travel adjust. It does not mess up the trims that was set at center of travel. And since they are set at the center, the variations to the end is half of what it would have been if they were trimmed at full up.

BP

Anyone know if I'm able to program a JR-X-378 to match this programming method? The manual says that I can only use a 4 servo wing to set up like this, not flapperons.

When you say "Set the flap stick (it IS on a stick, right??? It should be on a stick and ONLY on a stick)" Do you mean the throttle stick (mode 1) will adjust the flaps ?


Cheers

yes

Originally Posted by bbbp

Those instructions worked great for me I was having all sorts of trouble trying to get equal travel with the flaps.

Seems logical now that I did it. Set at half travel , balance the movement to that point by using sub trims, then set the end points at both extremes of travel with the travel adjust. It does not mess up the trims that was set at center of travel. And since they are set at the center, the variations to the end is half of what it would have been if they were trimmed at full up.

BP

I guess I just can't visualize what is going on.


Let's take a rudder servo. You turn on the TX and bind the RX. Then you plug in the rudder servo. Then you put the horn on the servo as close to 90 degrees as possible. You use the subtrim to fine tune. You use end-points and hole position to set the travel.


Now, the flaperons have input from two channels: flap and aileron.


Are you saying that with the aileron and flap (on the TX) centered, you put the horn on at 90-degrees there?

Then put the flaps up and connect the ailerons to be neutral?

I think that depends a bit on transmitter philosophy.

For Multiplex you have to do some math before because they define that the way the servo should do is the way including Flap deflection what means that you have to install a offset to the rudder(aileron) linkage which is normalised with a programmable flap offset parameter. In Futaba philosophy that can mean you make your linkage as expected at 90° and overdrive the servo in one direction to, let's say, 130% so you get enough deflection for the flaps.

For me the truth is somewhere between that. In the first case i'm limiting a bit the resolution but get a very clear and safe linkage and in the second one i have to drive the servo up to the edge but get a bit more resolution.
Both works.

lg

I did not want to get into gear installation in a plane in this thread. There is plenty on that subject in this group if one diggs around for a while. What I didn't see was a good presentation on the philosophy and practice of programming for DLGs. There were threads on how to do things with certain brands of transmitters, but the info on WHAT one should want to do, as a beginner/intermediate pilot, seemed to be lacking. So I wrote the above description to try to fill that void.

Perhaps another thread is needed for installation of gear in DLGs.

Gerald

Originally Posted by G_T

I did not want to get into gear installation in a plane in this thread. There is plenty on that subject in this group if one diggs around for a while. What I didn't see was a good presentation on the philosophy and practice of programming for DLGs. There were threads on how to do things with certain brands of transmitters, but the info on WHAT one should want to do, as a beginner/intermediate pilot, seemed to be lacking. So I wrote the above description to try to fill that void.

Perhaps another thread is needed for installation of gear in DLGs.

Gerald

Okay. I think I get what you are saying then. Once the mechanical is set up, you center the flap stick and the aileron stick then use subtrims to put both surfaces at the exact same angle. Is that right?

Then you put the flaps up and use end-points to put the ailerons to the exact same angle? Or maybe aileron trim?