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Sep 30, 2015, 12:57 AM
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Just need to glue the canopy on and it's ready for a initial maiden, hopefully this weekend!


Nose piece will be taped up until prop size is finalized.
Ran it up with the power meter attached today. Motor is limited to 16A and I hit that with 70% throttle, with a cut down 8x4.
Had one scary moment when white stuff started flying out the rear and I thought it was eating itself, but it had merely sucked in a roll of tissue paper and was busy making confetti!
Seems to push well, so I'm somewhat optimistic!

I'm getting some bullnose 5045s tomorrow, which I hope will be better balanced and will have a lot less mass than the cut down 8x4.

Speaking of Migs, I also got these awesome prints in the mail from a friend of mine:

He combines his art work with extensive historical research and visits/interviews pilots when possible:
http://johnmollison.com/#home
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Oct 05, 2015, 10:11 AM
Watt Waster
Tsavah's Avatar

Mig build


Not bad, but did you know if you use less glue in tight joints the glue seam will be hard to see and stronger? Another trick is to find a plastic bucket, flower pot, or cup of the size you need for the openings and put wide rubber bands slightly smaller than needed to hold the thin foam board in place. When the glue sets and starts to harden, you can remove the bucket, flower pot, or plastic cup used as a forming device and the openings will be very round and compress a little more. The key is to not use rubber bands that are too small/tight/thin, or there is a risk the foam will get dented/crushed a bit. In some cases it is useful to buy a bicycle, lawn mower tire, or other inner tube and cut the rubber into compression bands around 1/2" wide, or so. Sometimes 1/2" is a tad too wide and the rubber of the inner tube is very stiff and difficult to stretch, which is especially true of high pressure tubes used on some bicycles. It will be necessary to match the diameter to the project carefully to avoid damaging the foam, or crush damage that looks like a dent, or worse is likely. Rubber bands tend to be much easier to stretch. There are other tricks to employ and I believe I mentioned them in my blog.

Another trick is to use a small piece of old T-shirt, paper towel, or other sort of rag material that has been dampened with rubbing alcohol, or denatured and gently rub over the glue joints before the foaming/expanding glue has a chance to start hardening. If you are too generous with the urethane glue, you may have to rub down the excess glue more than three times every 5 minutes. The detail about urethane glue is you don't need much, and a light spray/mist of water will get the reactive glue expanding faster to make a better pressure bond, as it is designed to do. Some sort of clamping, or joint pressure is required for a stronger bond, but it is best to have a tight fit, or butt joint. Using the glue as a gap filler defeats the glue's ability to bond strong and it is good to remember the butt joint is often the weakest type of joint. The expanding glue is a great way to make a very strong joint if properly made and adequate pressure is applied.

The other issue is excess glue won't sand down as quickly as the foam board, so you end up with a lump of hard, cured glue and foam that is disappearing in a flash around it with aggressive sanding. One way to get a tight fit is to use 120 grit, thin, stiff sandpaper in the joint while holding the two sides together in place. The thinner and stiffer the sandpaper, the better since you are sanding in a V grove and at the bottom of the V the thickness of the sandpaper becomes a big deal. The thickness of the sandpaper makes it impossible to not have a slight gap at the bottom of the V joint when the butt joint is closed. Instead of trying to use expanding glue to close the gap, it is better to use the lightweight putty made for drywall as a filler. The stuff that comes in a plastic tub that is so lightweight you would swear the tub was empty.
Last edited by Tsavah; Oct 12, 2015 at 03:15 PM. Reason: spelling ...
Oct 05, 2015, 01:08 PM
Registered User
Thanks, care to show us your model, so I can compare?
Oct 05, 2015, 05:10 PM
Watt Waster
Tsavah's Avatar

Looks like I didn't post a few pictures


Quote:
Originally Posted by Implicit
Thanks, care to show us your model, so I can compare?
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show....php?t=1495592

Other details are posted in this thread, but no videos yet. The blog also contains related projects, like cold rolling thin foam and tools that are useful. Check my blog for more related articles with pictures.

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show....php?t=2064361
Latest blog entry: Center of Gravity - Airplanes
Dec 03, 2015, 07:23 PM
RC 4 Life
sparks's Avatar
Thread OP
The new Cartoon Corsair thread is running

HERE

There are other new war birds too.
Mar 12, 2016, 03:26 PM
Registered User
TAFARI's Avatar
Also working with the Sabre and Mig after all cartoon warbirds
Mar 14, 2016, 02:39 PM
Watt Waster
Tsavah's Avatar
Nice to see you are making good progress.
Latest blog entry: Center of Gravity - Airplanes
Mar 14, 2017, 04:38 PM
Registered User
I keep checking your threads in the vain hope that one day you'll be bored and unrealistically have nothing to do, a light will go on and you'll suddenly announce the development of a new Cartoon Bird namely the YO-3A! But, alas no

That thing has some goofy lines as is plus that huge canopy that could be super deformed "Korean style" and and really would look absolutely amazing combined with your unique comical cartoon twist...

You know its tempting
Mar 14, 2017, 06:59 PM
RC 4 Life
sparks's Avatar
Thread OP
The sales of the cartoon stuff has dropped off crazy because 3mm foam is hard to find.
I'm working with a company now to try to put 3mm back on the market so it is a wait and see.
Mar 14, 2017, 08:29 PM
Registered User
Ah OK, that makes sense, easy to over look as its relatively cheap here in the UK especially if you buy in bulk. The only reason I don't own a Miss America (I spent 13 yrs in MO and my wife is American & my son dual) is because our horrible customs people swoop on pretty much anything & everything declared over $15 (there are a few medical exemptions such as mobility gear for the disabled) and it gets stung with a 20% import duty plus a "handling fee" that from memory was +- $15 for them to open the box and stick a sticker on it... As you can imagine, that combined with international shipping radically changes the price point

I shall sacrifice some foam lambs to the prop Gods and hope you can get a foam deal sorted for the Stateside Comic Bird Crew and it re-kindles sales for you
Last edited by Fudo Myoo; Mar 14, 2017 at 08:35 PM.
Mar 15, 2017, 06:03 AM
A Day @ a Time - Matt. 6:25-34
ruff1's Avatar
Well done Sparks. Love the cartoon Corsair (might build one of those in honor of my Marine buddy). Is 3 mm not available in Cellfoam 88? I think I have an unopened package of that.
Mar 20, 2017, 07:24 PM
Watt Waster
Tsavah's Avatar

Foam thickness & Construction methods


Unfortunely, most of the foams we use, like the Dollar Tree poster board with the foam core is much thicker than 3mm. It generally is around 1/4" thick after the paper is removed. Few want to go to the trouble of making a foam cutting device and test their skills at thinning a full sheet and rightly so. What Sparks and others have done in 3mm can be done in thicker foams, but the construction process is a bit different. I call it thin foam shell construction over a foam (build-over) plug, or frame, where the plug or frame is removed after the desired shaping of the foam has been completed, and cured, depending on the glue used. The thin shell of a fuselage, or wing is then fitted with the electronics after the builder decides where access doors, or hatches will be cut in. One catch is the foam plug, or frame is left-over to make another copy, which can be a good thing if the dreaded "crash" happens to the original.
Latest blog entry: Center of Gravity - Airplanes
Nov 22, 2017, 12:42 PM
RC 4 Life
sparks's Avatar
Thread OP
Cant find the foam sheeting you need?

Cut your own to any thickness you want.

00069 (6 min 33 sec)
Jan 14, 2020, 05:21 PM
Registered User
Ralph A. D'Amelio's Avatar

Cartoon Mig 15 & F86


Found this thread will looking for a 6" round cowl ; been on website dozens of times to order cowls for my foamies scratch builds. Been building for a long long time and thee two really caught my fancy. I ordered the F86 plastic pieces and just order the Mig items.

I must say these are a delight as all of Sparkys plastic parts. I decided to start on the Mig 15 as a test bed with the intention of making it a pusher jet which I have been building for years.

First a compliment to Sparky on the accuracy of the plans....the fuselage just joins perfectly together within the accuracy of your cut and the foam your using. BTW I use primarily $TS foam board. I did pretty much like described for my prototype...loads of masking tape. Having received the F86 plastic parts I decided to do the fuselage with some simple jigs. If you measure the width of the fuse at any point you would have the diameter of a circle. Divide by 6.28 ( 2 times Pi) and simply cutout as many templates as you need to get the shape defined and held in place as a circular section. Still uses a lot of tape

Here's a picture of the fuse in the jigs. And the completed fuselage.
I never follow plans exactly and did modify the the location and appearance of the horizontal stab as well. Everything else the same.

Again thanks for a great plan parts. Still don't understand what took me so long to find this thread
Last edited by Ralph A. D'Amelio; Jan 14, 2020 at 05:39 PM.
Jan 14, 2020, 05:35 PM
Registered User
Ralph A. D'Amelio's Avatar
PS: If your a scratch builder like me you will peruse the builders workshop, table etc. You may notice the back of a small bottle of Jack Daniels Honey Tenn. whiskey

It's not mine its my building buddy Fix-It Freddie who is siting behind it. He had a total knee replacement and the darn Yankee winta weather does a number on it. Freddie say its strictly medicinal and the clerk who sold it to him says it "says so right on the label"


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