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May 18, 2011, 01:55 AM
Go FASST or go home...
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May 18, 2011, 09:22 AM
RC 4 Life
sparks's Avatar
Thread OP

Quick note on ordering Depron.


It's like ordering paper for your printer, why would you only order a few sheets when you know you will use it.
It's all about Volumetric shipping charges and if I'm wrong about this let me know.
To figure the charge you add the box length, width and height.
We are stuck with the first two but the height changes with the amount of sheets you buy.
The length and width throws us into a "large box' size so adding sheets only hurts the height measurement 3mm at a time.

Depending on what and how you build determines what you should stock up on.
Personally for every 10 sheets of 3mm I buy , I get 2 sheets of 6mm and 4 sheets of 2mm.
My point is, fill up the box, what you don't use your friends will buy.

BTW, My hobby shop sells the stuff at $10 per 3mm sheet, it's way cheaper on line if you fill up the box.
May 18, 2011, 09:38 AM
RC 4 Life
sparks's Avatar
Thread OP

here comes the hard part.


If you are not a patient person get help and I don't mean from a doctor.
A second set of hands will make it easier but not by much. I built six tubes so I think I can get you past it though.
Make as many 1 inch tape strips as you can stand, 50 will do. They all will need a folded end of about 1/4 inch to make it easy to remove later. Sick them to the edge or corner of something to avoid contaminating the adhesive.
Tape a playing card to the table and cut another into 4 strips and you are ready.
May 18, 2011, 09:46 AM
RC 4 Life
sparks's Avatar
Thread OP

bonding steps


Make a small glue puddle on the taped playing card.
Dip the end of one of the playing card strips in the glue and use it like a putty knife to wipe it clean on the edge of the fuselage joint starting at the beginning of the gap. Working outward about 3/4 inch.
Wipe off any excess glue.
Hold the fuselage skin tips together and apply a tape strip at the bond area to hold it together.
Move on to the next gap and repeat working your way around the fuselage tube. After about 4 laps around you should be at the end of the tube.
May 18, 2011, 09:49 AM
RC 4 Life
sparks's Avatar
Thread OP

tips and shortcuts


Start with the front, it's a little easier and the plastic nose ring can be used to hold the foam together while the tape is being attached, but don't bond the ring in place now.

Close the gaps evenly, start with the deepest gaps and work it until they are even with the shorter ones.

Check on the fuselage about every 10 minutes for an hour to wipe off any glue that might foam to the surface. Wipeing is easier than trying to pick it off.

When it's time to remove the tape use a hair blow dryer to soften the adhesive to keep from damaging the foam surface.
May 18, 2011, 09:56 AM
RC 4 Life
sparks's Avatar
Thread OP
I don't want to make this sound difficult because it is not but without a tube we have no model . . . .Duh.
This worried me a bit for the beginners so I laid the above out and made a video.
I'll be gone for a bit while the short kits make their way to the builders (about 6 so far)
I have to stop because the video of the tube being bonded should be posted here.
Now I get to learn how to edit a video because as is, it is one of the most boring things I have ever seen.
May 20, 2011, 08:18 PM
RC 4 Life
sparks's Avatar
Thread OP

bonding the tube


Wow, what a pan in the butt. It's my first edit job so don't laugh too hard. I mannaged to carve 25 min down to 9
On the good side you will see some bloopers, chances are they will happen to you too so I guess it's all part of getting information across.
now that it's done I can continue.

Sparky bonds a Depron tube (9 min 12 sec)
May 20, 2011, 11:12 PM
ExPat
Aero Andy's Avatar
Sparks

Good job on the video, always worth a thousand words.
Andy
May 21, 2011, 09:06 PM
RC 4 Life
sparks's Avatar
Thread OP
Now you have the tube for inspiration, there's nothing like visual progress and the wing will only add to it.
It goes together fast and with a little sanding skills it's fast.
I prefer air foils and I know not everyone agrees but I think they fly better.
If you build your model with a flat panel for a wing it will build much faster because fitting it to the fuselage will be a snap .
I have no idea what incidence angle you should use or if it will need a spar.
If you do go with a flat panel for a wing please post how you did it , I'm sure there are a bunch of guys that would like to see how you did it and how it fly's
Last edited by sparks; May 23, 2011 at 07:05 AM.
May 23, 2011, 07:07 AM
RC 4 Life
sparks's Avatar
Thread OP

Wing construction


Use the pattern to cut out the bottom sheeting and mark the spar locations.
Bond the spars in place and clamp with weights.
NOTE: apply wax to the two most aft spars on the sides that face each other. This gap makes up the aileron hinge gap and cannot be bonded.
Use a highlighter to mark the tops of the spars as a sanding indicator.

5 Spars
May 23, 2011, 07:10 AM
RC 4 Life
sparks's Avatar
Thread OP

sanding is the trick


To save weight ribs have not been used. The trick is how you sand the spars to make an airfoil and its easy.

With the trailing edge on the edge of the table sand the wing skin and the most aft spar sanding in a tip to root direction with 120 grit. You will notice the marker disappearing from the most aft spar. When the aft edge of the mark is about gone from the spar and the skin has a thin taper to it start sanding the next spar and the most aft spar .
When the most aft spar has all the marker gone move forward to the next pair until you have reached the forward spar.
You can check your progress by laying the upper sheeting in place and look for high points in the skin.
May 23, 2011, 07:13 AM
RC 4 Life
sparks's Avatar
Thread OP

Bonding the top sheeting


Use the wing pattern to cut two top wing sheets leavening about 1/4 inch extra along the leading edge to allow for the airfoil curve.
Place a weight at the wing center section to keep it from moving and cut the bottom sheeting at the leading edge root to allow the leading edge shim to be put under the leading edge.
Apply glue to the sheeting edges and spars.
Start the bond at the trailing edge working forward applying weights.
May 23, 2011, 07:17 AM
RC 4 Life
sparks's Avatar
Thread OP

Wing Center Section


Use a razor to cut any extra spar material away.
Support the wing tip above the table with a block and use a 90 degree block to sand the wing root to set the dihedral angel.
Add 6mm foam to join the spars with the tips still supported.
Sheet the center section with 3mm foam and cap the tips with 6mm foam
May 23, 2011, 07:25 AM
RC 4 Life
sparks's Avatar
Thread OP

Ailerons


Hold the wing up to a bright light to locate the hinge gap and push a straight pin through the wing.
(The prototype is shown in the photo so there are missing ribs in the shot)
Use a straight edge to cut the ailerons free. Sand a bevel in the bottom edge of the aileron
and wing, hinge the gap with 1/8 inch wide fiber hinges and install the torque rods.
The prototype had tape hinges that didn't hold well but then again it could have just been crappy tape.


Pay close attention to the length of the aileron. The distance from the center line is very close on the MIG. If you cut the hinge line too far inboard the fuselage will interfere with the movement.
May 23, 2011, 07:28 AM
RC 4 Life
sparks's Avatar
Thread OP
Just a quick view from the "factory floor".
Sure hope I can get all of them in the air at the same time!

Later this week I'll post the motor mounting details but for now if anyone has wing questions . . . . . . .
Last edited by sparks; May 23, 2011 at 07:30 AM. Reason: Questions


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